That was marvellous especially as the BBC has just shown two documentaries on the D Day landings and they featured, very heavily the work of the photo rec' spitfires and their pilots - worth a watch if it comes your way

Check out the Quantum Trio for Canon - very powerful and can be used off camera with a TTL flash extender cable (pixel is a good inexpensive make about £20) Strobe is the american way of saying flash I believe - in England a strobe is considered as a flash source that repeats itself very fast - about 20 times a second and is used in discos a lot!

I have just looked at the website for this product and viewed the video - there seems to be a lot of vignetting in the green on the two short edges - have you found this? Do use it in DX rather than FX mode?

I NEED to see result as this interests me a lot. What body have you got it on please?
Cheers

That is good!

It won't hold up a great weight but for a flower or somesuch it is good. I also use it for flagging the lens from a light source that might cause flare, using a small piece of black card

I have done a snap of mine with an sd card for scale

I bought a "wiggly worm" from Robert white photographic in Poole dorset some years ago - it is what you want - give them a ring as they still have some left.On their web site. www.robertwhite.co.uk £16.80 inc VAT
but no photo

Definatley Pentax K mount which took over from Pentax screw mount lenses. Some lesser camera manufacturers used the Pentax mount for theirs as, at the time, Pentax were the no 1, with Nikon some way behind.

Take the light that is set to TTL off and set it to Manual. All in manual - lights and camera. Start off with the main light throughout the brolly on its own at full power manual and as close to the subject as you would like. Set the camera to 1/250 sec (to negate and available light effects) and f/11 - take a photo and look at the histogram on the back of the camera. Adjust the camera to get the best exposure for the lit part of the vase just using the one light. When you are happy you can add additional lighting AT THE SAME EXPOSURE as above and vary their exposure by either power or distance (dont forget that the light drops off at the inverse of the square of the distance). This should take you no more than ten mins and you should be ok. Happy flashing

Oh, and taken those badges off as you and they know who they are for the photo!!!!!!!!!

If you had exposed for the highlight behind the gents shoulder with the shutter speed(I would have used 1/250 sec) and then set the aperture to say f/16 on the flash and camera you would have got a correct exposure and no post production problems. The other alternative would have been to step to the left and pointed the camera to the couple with no bright background.
Regards Brian P

As a traditional photographer you still had to bring the tonal range from a transparent medium (neg/tranny) to that of a reflected medium (print). Lightroom is all you need and the Lightroom Queen - Victoria Bampton - has produced the easiest of books to help. When you buy the book you also get the digital down load license. Shoot RAW and then work into TIFFS.

The teacher was chatting in crap speak! The older "Film" lenses had the covering power of the FX format while the "digital" earlier lenses were the covering power of the DX format. I would go for the best you can afford. FX: D800E, D800, D600 DX: D7100. If the light bounced around inside the lens it would be called flare and you would have the flattest of images!!!!

I grew up on manual ans the lesson has stood me in good stead for the last 40 years - Master manual and you will undrstand what the camera is doing for you when you set it up in say aperture priority. It gives you the building blocks for this great profession/hobby.