Studio Lighting 101 -- A lot tougher than it looks on You Tube!!!
May 29, 2013 19:25:30 #
I am ready to explore off camera lighting. I purchased a basic kit light system and backdrop. The kit came with two 150 watt lights; two stands; two soft boxes, and one umbrella. I also have a speedlight which I plan to use as the key light. I set up the three lights and the image looks great to the eye; but when I shoot up close it comes out dark. I'm using a Canon 7D. 24-70 lens. Manual setting shutter speed 160; f8; ISO 200. When I stand farther away the light is better. Is it possible to shoot at this settings, get closer to the image, and have the appropriate mount of light on the image? Attached are the images.
May 29, 2013 20:42:22 #
What is your metering set at? Change the metering to different settings and see what the outcome is. I wish I could narrow it down for you but I am still learning also. Please keep us posted on your progress so we can learn.
-Gerald
-Gerald
May 29, 2013 20:52:19 #
I don't have a clue either but just be patient there will be someone around with the answer and how to do it :thumbup:
May 29, 2013 21:38:38 #
If you used the same settings for both, the 2nd would definitely be underexposed because there is a lot less light getting to the subject area.
How are you metering? With the 'in-camera' meter, or hand-held?
How are you metering? With the 'in-camera' meter, or hand-held?
May 29, 2013 21:43:29 #
Wahawk wrote:
If you used the same settings for both, the 2nd would definitely be underexposed because there is a lot less light getting to the subject area.
How are you metering? With the 'in-camera' meter, or hand-held?
How are you metering? With the 'in-camera' meter, or hand-held?
I am using in camera metering.
May 29, 2013 22:42:47 #
There is no way to answer your question about will your settings work because we don't know what your meter is reading. I will tell you that for this kind of lighting there is no substitute for a good hand-held incident meter.
However, you can still use the camera meter, but you have to meter very carefully the area that is your subject.
Offhand, that 160 at f/8 and ISO 200 sounds like it WOULD underexpose with these lights. One way to get a pretty consistent exposure would be to get a gray card, set it up in your subject space ( or if human, have them hold it) and meter off that.
However, you can still use the camera meter, but you have to meter very carefully the area that is your subject.
Offhand, that 160 at f/8 and ISO 200 sounds like it WOULD underexpose with these lights. One way to get a pretty consistent exposure would be to get a gray card, set it up in your subject space ( or if human, have them hold it) and meter off that.
May 29, 2013 23:01:04 #
Fran wrote:
I am using in camera metering.
Did you re-meter for the closer view?
Without seeing a total diagram of your setup, including camera postioning and strobe position and setup, it would be hard to tell.
May 30, 2013 06:14:41 #
TimS
Loc: GA
With those lights, I would think ISO 400 and f/2.8 would be approaching a proper exposure. Just guessing though. I would think your exposure is primarily the result of the speed light with very little contribution from the constant lighting.
How do you have the flash mounted and modified?
How do you have the flash mounted and modified?
May 30, 2013 06:17:38 #
TimS
Loc: GA
I guess I'm wondering if you are throwing a narrow beam that is totally missing the vase when you zoom in. If its on camera then that's not likely the case. When in TTL, the flash head of the speed light can zoom in to match the zoom of the lens. If its off camera and being triggered by a TTL method and you have it bare bulb, it might be positioned wrong.
Just a stab in the dark :). No puns were harmed in the making if this reply.
Just a stab in the dark :). No puns were harmed in the making if this reply.
May 30, 2013 06:20:35 #
TimS
Loc: GA
I just looked at the picture closer and I see the speeight behind an umbrella. Nope. My previous reply is not likely the answer.
May 30, 2013 08:20:21 #
Thanks all. I didn't re-meter for a closer view. I pan to practice more today to get proper exposure and highlights.
. I'm wondering if the lights aren't bright enough at 125watts???
Much to learn.
. I'm wondering if the lights aren't bright enough at 125watts???
Much to learn.
May 30, 2013 08:33:16 #
Angel of the North
Loc: Gateshead, Tyne & Wear, UK
Fran wrote:
I am ready to explore off camera lighting. I purch... (show quote)
I'm only able to see one 150w light plus the speedlight. How are the lights triggered, sync cable, radio poppers, slaved???? I cannot even determine if the near 150w fill light has fired? Because you don't have a hand held meter this is what I would do. Use the 150w light as your key and switch on only the modelling light then adjust the brightness up/down till you achieve f8 @ISO200 on your camera TTL ....the shutter speed is not important, anything between 1/6o and your max sync speed (probably 1/200th) because the vase is not going to move. Then use the speedlight or your other 150w as your fill, adjusting the intensity to give you whatever ratio you desire. If the lights are being triggered properly and enough recycle time is allowed it should make no difference if you are shooting from 12' or 5' away from the vase.
May 30, 2013 09:03:00 #
JBTaylor
Loc: In hiding again
If you lights aren't moved between shots nad your camera settings are the same, you should be getting consistent results. The first and third show look somewhat consistent sine the vase is in a darker part of the first picture. The color balance is similar too. The middle picture sees to have a different exposure and different color balance. The light in the soft box doesn't look like it is on. When you say 150 watt lights in the kit, it that continuous lights or strobes? I can't tell from the housing. If continuous, you may need to slow your shutter duration quite a bit and use a tripod. Also changing your shutter duration will change you ratio of continuous to flash light below the sync speed.
I'm curious whether that is a 150 watt continuous light or 150 watt-second strobe. Further answers depend on knowing that.
Oh also, are you using the speedlite in manual mode or TTL? If TTL and the light in the softbox is a strobe operating as a slave, then it might have fired on the pre-flash and that's why it looks like it's not on for the actual exposure.
I'm curious whether that is a 150 watt continuous light or 150 watt-second strobe. Further answers depend on knowing that.
Oh also, are you using the speedlite in manual mode or TTL? If TTL and the light in the softbox is a strobe operating as a slave, then it might have fired on the pre-flash and that's why it looks like it's not on for the actual exposure.
May 30, 2013 09:08:37 #
Angel of the North wrote:
I'm only able to see one 150w light plus the speed... (show quote)
The 150watt is set up as a slave. Only the speedlight and one of the 150 watt lights is firing. Thanks for your input I will apply it today and let you know how it works.
It is a challenge trying to figure this out and I'm thankful for everyone's help.
May 30, 2013 09:21:47 #
JBTaylor wrote:
If you lights aren't moved between shots nad your ... (show quote)
The speedlight is in TTL and I think the light in the softbox is operating as a slave.
The kit I purchased didn't come with any instructions so I'm working in the dark...literally.
Thanks for responding.
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