Excuse me, but I've seen your posts before, and I know that you're a guy who really knows his cameras. Do you know if I can safely use an old SUNPACK AUTO 322 Thyristor Flash, on my new Nikon D7200 without damaging the camera in any way? The old flash had been previously bought, and used, on my 1980 Nikon F. It is the typical, small/medium sized, vertical flash, that operates with four AA batteries. It has a slide selector switch for it's Power Ratio, that goes from full strength to 1/32, a sliding calculator, that's calibrated for ASA 25-800, and a sliding Calculator Tab, to determine your correct Distance Scale, given one of two different, possible Apertures Settings. Will it safely work on my Nikon D7200, if it had worked, on my Nikon F ? Should it's (non-TTL, auto exposure,) function also, (from the flash,) itself? (I don't know flashes well.) Thanks, Rob.

I am seeing a spot on the images produced by my Canon ELPH 100 HS. I have a number of bigger and better DLSR and Power shot camera but this one has been living in my pocket or briefcase since 2010. It is always there so I use it a lot. Recently I was on a hunting drip. Took a photo of my buddy in front of an active Oil Rig in the early morning light. I noticed this spot.

I cannot see any spot on the lens system. The spot is always in the same location and varies in size and intensity with the zoom level.

I will have to fix this or get another camera. Fix it means fixing it myself.

I have two photos. One at 5mm zoom. The other at 20 mm or full optical zoom. Look at the photos.

What do you think. Dirt/Mold on one if the lens elements?

Anyone have experience disassembling one of these cameras?

The dark spot is at full zoom.

There is something I can't understand, that is, pertaining to this thread. Something very basic is missing. There are people here that are serious and possibly long time photographic enthusiasts equipped with good digital equipment. They can see ad assess instantaneous results just seconds after exposures are made. Perhaps the image at the back of the camera is not 100% indication of the full potential for good results or the lack thereof. After a bit of experience with their particular cameras, they should have a pretty good idea of how to proceed, as to corrections and adjustments if any are required.

I offered some technical information, in a previous post, as to the reasons why certain kinds of lighting conditions can "fool" an auto-exposure systems, thereby causing lackluster and disappointing results and how to compensate for theses issues. I think that information answers or, at least, addresses the OP's question, especially considering his more than 7 decades of photographic experience including professional work. Some might call what I wrote "too technical;" or "wordy" or technobabble. Perhaps I did not express my ideas as clearly as I should have, so here is a simple scenario.

So...you are walking along the beach, trekking through the countryside or shooting some cityscapes. You come upon a fabulous sunset, skyscape or extremely unique once in a lifetime lighting condition- straight out of the heavens. Set you camera for you favorite automatic exposure mode. shoot quickly, look at the results and if the are unsatisfactory you can go to your (+ and-) exposure compensation control, automatic braking mode or simply switch into manual and bracket the heck out of the scene. Ther law of averages will yield a decent shot. Also, again, work quickly and move around and try to shoot the scene for various positions; this will yield different compositions and cover any angle of incidence issues that may make for a better rendition of the sunset.

I am a bit of a "control freak" when it comes to exposure control and in the past, I may have been the last guy to recommend any kind of auto-exposure mode or shooting anything in other than shooting in manual and RAW modes. Lately, however, with the latest technological improvements in even some of the least inexpensive DSLRs and even point and shoot cameras, I have seen some above average results emerge from simple automation and Jpeg usage- right out of the camera!

Now- if you don't know how to override your automat modes, employ exposure compensation, auto or manual, or bracket you exposure in either auto or manual modes, it is time to get back into your camera's user manual or seek out some tutorial information. This should no me misconstrued as a snide, insulting or condescending remark. Most better digital cameras have many helpful, well engineered and convenient features and if you are not able to access and employ them, you are simply not getting your money's worth and limiting you own capabilities. I find that most disappointing images are caused by "piolet failure" rather than defective, malfunctioning or even cheap equipment.

Oh- I just thought of something, when shooting directly into any light source, flare can badly degrade you images- it is caused my too much light directly striking the lens. Most modern lenses are specially coated to minimize flare and the insides of the lenses and bodies are sufficiently baffled as well- but flare can still become problematic. Flare can also be introduced by poor quality filters or insufficient lens shading. Sometimes I mount the camera on a tripod and use a black card, held just out of the camera's angle of view to completely shade the lens.

The basic common sense rules of thumb for capturing a difficult image is to shoot lots, bracket lots and move around lots.

My tenure in photography does not span 70 some years, only 50+ but I do remember the days when I shot most of my scenic photographs on ISO (ASA) 10, 16, and finally "fast" ISO 25 Kodachrome slide film with virtually no latitude where half a stop would seriously affect the density and saturation of an image. In a really crazy lighting condition, I could go through a 24 or 36 exposure roll of 35mm film- that was expensive! Nowadays, that is not an issue so you can shoot all you want, keep the goodies and cull the rejects.

Dramatic sunsets, like the expressions in portraiture, are fleeting occurrences so shoot fast, shoot much and take control!

Hey- stop fighting y'all. My grandmother would yell that at me and my siblings and if we did not stop she would come and smack us upside our heads! :)

Hi every one I have a humming bird comes to my balcony so often for the feeder I got for it I can really get close to it the problem is that I can not use hi shutter sped for freezing the wings because of the light most time the sky is dark and cloudy or the light is not behind me where I take the shots I use high iso but the pix lose so much quality and I bdont have tripod as well I just take the pictures hand held and I have Canon 7 D first one not the new one is there any one have any idea what should do I appreciate any one to tell me what is my best option thanks so much.

I've sent the seller a message. Maybe he will have some ideas. I don't have access to anyone else's camera, but since both of mine give exactly the same symptoms...

I was just scanning ebay for macro lenses longer than 50mm is all. This seemed like a bargain, although of course if it doesn't work... Usual reason, limited funds.

The ad says that he doesn't accept returns, but since he is selling it as "Canon EF EOS", and it doesn't work with either of mine, he may not have a choice. We'll see.