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Aug 31, 2018 21:20:30   #
There are a couple of responses that mention confusion about spot AF with the Canon 5d Mk IV. The square with the tiny dot in the middle is called "spot focus" and it uses a very small area of the focus sensor. It can be very useful when you need to be precise with the location you wish to focus on. BUT, it is not very good at tracking moving objects. The single box with no dot is called single point focus and uses a larger area to focus on. It is still rather small but extends just a bit beyond the edges of the square. It is much better at tracking movement and is the better choice to match with AI-Servo.
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Aug 30, 2018 17:26:54   #
AI-Servo is the correct setting to use, NOT one shot. When working with such a long lens as close as you need to be, depth of field is very shallow. Any movement of either the bee or the camera that changes the lens to subject distance will result in an out of focus bee. AI-Servo will allow the lens to adjust focus as the distance changes. I might consider using not spot focus but expanded point focus. That uses one main focus point with 4 surrounding points to assist. As the bee moves around a bit in the center of the frame, the camera will track the bee. Another setting that may help is to use AF case 2 that delays refocusing when the focus points briefly leave the subject.
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Aug 30, 2018 17:11:23   #
Since you are shooting JPEG, check the camera for its picture settings. That is where you can adjust the camera presets for standard, vivid, landscape, portrait, monochrome use, etc. This photo appears to be both overexposed and over saturated causing the highly saturated areas to blow out. Some of those camera settings are customizable and the saturation may have been set too high. Some camera sensors tend to oversaturate certain colors, too. One of the suggestions is to shoot in RAW which would probably give you better control over the colors. With JPEGs, the picture settings are baked in and more difficult to adjust. With RAW, nothing is baked in and vibrance and saturation are easier to adjust.
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Aug 30, 2018 16:49:59   #
In the first two shots of the swimmers, the camera has focused behind the swimmer. This is because you used all the focus points and the camera does not know that the swimmer is the subject. It found something that was contrasty and focused on that. Next time, set the camera for only one point or a small cluster of points at the center and focus on the swimmers face and you will do very well.

In the flower photos, not only do you need to restrict the number of focus points to one but use a smaller aperture to increase the depth of field. Focus about 1/3 of the distance into the photo using an aperture of f/11 to f/16 and you will have more of the subject in focus. Remember that when you get very close, you will have very little depth of field so the tulip may be a difficult subject to get it all in focus.
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Aug 4, 2018 10:22:52   #
I once heard a talk by a National Geographic photographer who spoke of using this technique. From the perspective of street, documentary or travel photography it is the compositional technique of having other items of interest in the photo that help place the event, fill out the story or give context to the photo. An example might be a photo of a fruit vendor at their stand in a market with a potential customer walking by, another worker in the background bringing a basket of fruit to the vendor, the fruit with a price sign, and a bit of the awning with a name above. Such a photo would tell much more of the story than just a close up of the vendor and a few pieces of fruit. Not everything except the subject need be in perfect focus. Just enough to be able to discern what it is or what is happening.
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Jul 31, 2018 08:44:45   #
Love the composition! Well done.
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Jul 12, 2018 09:12:52   #
JD750 wrote:
Sitting outside on my patio, sweet light time, had my D7000 +70-300mm f4-5.6 on one chair, OM-D + 45mm f1.8 (90mm FF EFV) on the other chair, and working on an email. Suddenly I hear subtle sounds, and sensed big movement out of the corner of my eye. On the fence to the south in my yard, A Red Tailed Hawk, just missed one of those little birds that come here this time of day to drink from the fountain. WOA! Predator alert! Wow he’s big! I reached out and grabbed the D7000 camera OUTCH outch outch ... recent stitches, hurt!! Art requires sacrifice. I mashed the back FOCUS button and literally fired a shot as I was raising it to my eye. Then he flew. GONE. I looked at the shot and I am not thrilled with the result. I was woefully ignorant of the situation. I could have gotten a good shot had I been paying attention. BAD photographer. BAD BAD photographer.
Sitting outside on my patio, sweet light time, ha... (show quote)


The hawk may have been reacting to the sudden movement of your reaching for the camera. When ever I find myself in that type of a situation, I find that a slow reaction, without looking directly at the bird often (not always) results in the bird staying put longer. I do think the birds watch your eyes as I have often noted that, if you stare at them and then look away for one second, that is when they fly. If you don't look directly at them, they may think that you haven't seen them and not perceive you as a threat.
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Jul 12, 2018 09:02:28   #
Nicely done, Frank!
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Jun 14, 2018 17:07:00   #
I haven't posted in quite a while but I thought these would be of interest. I do volunteer photography for the Pennsylvania Game Commission and accompany their biologist to nest sites during breeding season. I photograph the adults to see if they are banded. While I do that the chicks are given health check ups and are banded. I can not identify the location of this bird beyond the State of Pa. These photos were taken with a 10-22 mm lens at 10mm! That means this bird was inches from my face!

Enjoy!


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Apr 22, 2018 22:34:37   #
CanonShot wrote:
Those riches can't be measured in cash or gear, IMHO.


Darn!
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Apr 22, 2018 22:30:31   #
tomad wrote:
Thanks, In some I used center focus and in some I did use multiple focus points. I seem to have better luck with center on large slow moving birds but multiple points on smaller faster birds. The biggest problem I've had with multiple points using AF-C is that it will focus on the closest object so I get the closest wing tip in focus on large birds leaving the head out of focus.


Tomad has hit on some very important information here!
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Apr 22, 2018 22:25:02   #
Super job! I'm jealous!
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Apr 22, 2018 22:22:32   #
kpmac wrote:
Nice set. Ain't learning?


Canonshot,

Please share some of those riches with me! I could use some more gear!! LOL

Birdpix
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Apr 22, 2018 22:20:38   #
Well done Thurber! I'm glad my posts were of some help to you!

Birdpix
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Mar 8, 2018 08:43:55   #
In the Canon line of cameras, that is a no go because the rear element of the crop sensor lens projects too far into the full frame camera and interferes with the mirror. Check your manufacturers website for any compatibility issues. Otherwise you risk damaging the camera.
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