It finally warmed up enough to take my camera out to play. This was a walk along Elm Creek and around Rice Lake. I included the color version because I like it both ways. Feel free to comment.

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I learned something new today. There are 2 causes for the pre-flash that I could find.

The first is Red Eye Reduction Under FLASH MODES in the user Manual. This was the likely culprit. I could easily, accidentally depressed the ”-“ button while rotating the rear control knob.

The other scenario occurs when a CLS, Creative Lighting System, compatable (SB700 in my case) flash is attached to the camera (it was) AND set to TTL (it was). See OPTIONAL FLASH UNITS (p87-89) The camera automatically selects either iTTL BALANCED fill flash which also results in several pre-flashes prior to the main flash firing, or STANDARD iTTL fill flash. Standard fill is automatically chosen if Spot Metering had been selected (it wasn’t).

Thanks! I found the problem, made a correction, tried it out and it now works fine. I need to read manual to find out what the other 2 settings are for. That’s for later today. I still don’t know how I changed that setting.

It had to do with how the flash works in relation to the shutter curtain. I’ll read up on it now that I know what happened. I have no idea how I changed it. I’ve never used flash in any but the “normal” way.

I have a Nikon D850 and a SB700 flash. I have used them in combination before, not often, with no issue. This evening I mounted the flash on the camera in preparation for a group shot and tried a few practice shots. The flash was set to ttl. The camera to 1/60 at 200 ISO. When I push the shutter button the flash gave 3 what I will call lower power pre-flashes before firing the flash at full power- like the camera is trying to figure out the power requirement to expose the shot. It takes about 1-1/2 seconds for the 3 light pulses after I’ve pushed the shutter button. I must have inadvertently changed a setting. Would someone tell me what I’ve done and how to correct it. I’ve been looking around, but with no success so far.

Just figured it out. I had somehow changed the Flash Mode. As soon as I made the correction the issue went away, so never mind.

Wonderful news. I guess He’s got more work for you

Neat shot, and now I have that Harry Belafonte song playing in my head 😁 🎶

Nice capture of a great looking automobile

It looks like you have the transmitter mounted on a Nikon camera.
Make sure the channel set on the Flash is the same as the channel set on the Transmitter. Furthermore,
Godox can further restrict outside interference from other transmitters by letting you also set the Wireless ID. The Wireless ID has to be the same on all your wireless triggers and receivers or they won’t work together. You might have accidentally changed the Wireless ID on the Flash or Transmitter.

You may need a Godox remote receiver to sit under your flash. The Godox trigger sitting on your camera may not be directly compatible with the flash. Godox triggers and receivers are camera specific also.

Wear comfortable shoes!

Beautiful. I’m also seeing several Northern Light posts from the Keweenaw Peninsula (my old stompin’ grounds) taken last night.

I’m interested to read the responses to your question, but Mac monitors are pretty accurate so far as color is concerned. I think if you do a little searching you can find where this topic has come up in the past.

Malibu sure, but I wonder just how close “Warehouse 1” is to a celebrity’s home? They must be “B-Listers”

Rattle, rattle second gear.
What’s that funny noise I hear?
When I shifted at 10,000
Something flew out through the housing

Interesting when a photo brings back an old memory