I think too much is made about that. Even with identical cameras, lenses, exposure, settings, a pixel peeper will probably find some difference in the images, but not significant enough to worry about, and probably caused by differences in the calibrations of the two cameras. I always shoot RAW, so I can pretty much tweak anything related to exposure, WB, and effects - I just concern myself about "getting it in the ballpark". The JPG outputs of the various cameras will produce varying results depending on applied settings and the manufacturers' internal DSP handling to produce JPG outputs. ALL images are approximations of our reality, what we see with our eyes, and in many cases there are variations in color perception or color blindness - our eyes are the ultimate cameras and lenses (let's all too, not forget about variations in monitors and calibrated monitors). There are many considerations here besides the capturing equipment too.

Me too, but realize no media that we know of can last tens of thousands of years, except that written in stone, and eventually those will erode away too - it's a question of when not if. Ask yourself, suppose I want people 10,000 or 100,000 years to see the images I have taken? Anything printed on paper, unless it's stored in a controlled environment, and it's kept controlled, will eventually disintegrate. Metals oxidize and degrade too, as with very old coins. Film, slides or negatives, will eventually rot and turn acidic. All current digital media has limited lifespans, whether it's flash, SSD, CDs, DVD, BD, M-DISC, hard drives (even in a RAID),tape (LTO tapes up to 30 years), etc. The other problem with any type of media, digital or analog, is the availability of a device to read it. Eventually electronics will fail too. At the very least, flash memory used in processors and local storage will degrade too. (Old home computers from the 1970s for example, need to have their EPROMs refreshed or replaced.) The best we can do is preserve digital media via generational copies on the most reliable media we have. This is the strategy used by many large media and entertainment companies with LTO tape - upgrading the drives and tapes every 2-3 generations, as well as diversifying on multiple types of media such a proprietary disc formats.

Until a super durable medium is invented (>200-1000 years), the generation copy system is all we have. Holographic storage media with ECC may be on the horizon someday, promising super dense and super reliable storage. Again, the device to read it must be as reliable and durable too.

I am torn between 1 and 2, but the #2 seems to be sharper with better contrast, although I like the comp better on #1 - 2 things are better than 1, but as they say three's a crowd. Or, is it Three's Company? My eye keeps bouncing back and forth between the pair and the lone bird in #2. Tough one.

It's all about protecting your eyes first and your camera second.

* Never look directly at the eclipse without protective glasses.
* Always use a high value ND filter on the camera, designed for eclipse shooting. (typically an 18-20 stop ND filter - EXPENSIVE $$$.)
* Keep the lens cap on the camera when not shooting - will prevent internal burns during long exposure to the sun.
* Use live view on the DSLR - don't look through an OVF at the eclipse!
* On a mirrorless, of course you can look through the EVF or use the screen.

Lot's of shotgun topics here but I think Nikon was always being Nikon, and that is both a blessing and a curse. A Z6iii offers a lot of promise, coming this summer hopefully, but the Z9H (or any GS model) is highly niche. I see a GS more beneficial to videographers than still shooters - and we'll see that via the RED acquisition mainly. The Z50 is long overdue for an update, either as a Z50ii or the rumored Z90. Never too late, even Olympus has an afterlife as the OM System (horrible name as a brand).

Is the license code for Windows valid for a Pro license? If you can connect to the internet otherwise (able to browse live sites), then it may be a firewall or AV issue. Start with simpler solutions, rather than go with the full re-install option. Also, a pain with Windows 11 is that it tries to force you to connect first to the internet before continuing with the installation which is a pain for brand new installs especially. Recently, I installed Win 11 Pro on a new build, but I ran into that initial connection conundrum since it was a wifi connection only and the network drivers for the motherboard were not installed yet. The workaround I used was a special command typed into an admin terminal screen. Directions are here if that is a similar problem for you - https://www.minitool.com/news/windows-11-setup-without-internet.html

How about using a Canon lens on a Nikon body with the Fringer AF adapter? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1778961-REG/fringer_fr_nz2_canon_ef_to_nikon.html

Looks like April 1 arrived early this year.

f/8 at 200-400 - nah, I will pass. Jared the Fro guy did a nice review of this lens too. Of all the Z lenses Nikon introduced in the last year, this one is my least favorite. As long as you can afford it two lenses are better choices, the 24-120 f/4 and 100-400 f/4.5-5.6, covering this range.

I think we reached the point where a ceasefire was declared in megapixel wars of the last 2 decades, finally. CEOs from all the major manufacturers signed a peace treaty, and are now smoking peace bongs in the hookah lounge at B&H. Enjoy!

You can always scan parts and then stitch them together, unless it's a canvas painting in a wood frame then that would be my one exception. They also have handheld scanners you can place right against the print to scan sections at a time. If you don't have one, many print shops do, and they also have large scanners for older blueprints and other hard copies that need to be digitized.

In my case, the photo of my mom was large too (8x10) and badly creased and dog eared. I flattened it with the weight of the scanner cover. Fortunately, it was not brittle as some older photos can get over the many decades.

Well, at least in Nikon's case, the RAW file is discarded internally once the JPG is made, unless the RAW+JPG option is selected. I suspect this is the same for the other makers too. For cell phones...it might vary with make and model if whether the RAW is saved or not....

I just looked at my new phone - a Motorola Moto G Stylus 5G 2023 - it has the options of JPG only, RAW only or RAW+JPG, just as with the big cameras. I shot a few with the RAW+JPG option, and it saves both a JPG and a RAW formatted file. It uses Adobe RAW or DNG format at 12 mp. The camera has a 50 mp hi-res mode (pixel shift?), but in that case it is JPG only regardless of the RAW/JPG setting. If you need RAW, you must select one of the RAW options for it to be saved.

Yes his BIF and BOW shots are amazing. He has many instructive videos on YT as he gives much of his knowledge and expertise away for free. On one occasion I caught one of his live streams - being able to ask him questions live is the next best thing to having him move into your house.

It stands to reason why they don't have phone support - 1000 people calling a day would mean they need a call center support staff which is very costly. A lot of people are still shooting with film even these days. This past weekend, I just dusted off my three OM bodies and lenses, and today ordered some rolls of film (and fresh batteries to feed those hungry OM bodies) to start shooting away when the flowers start blooming. So, I will be using the dark room too. Ironically, the film images will be destined for the hard drive. I've heard they only make digital (vs optical/chemical) prints these days. Some films are awfully expensive, such as the Fuji Provia 100 around $40 for 1 36ex roll!

That would be interesting, but I am not too crazy for those wide to long tele super zooms as usually there is some compromise in IQ or with lens aberrations. It's nice to have a "do it all walkaround lens" on the camera all the time, but there are usually compromises. Let's see what Nikon can pull off with this one.

I'd rather see them make a 2x-5x macro lens, manual focus, to compete with some third parties that have it in the native Z mount (like this lens - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1805624-REG/astrhori_a24b_n_25mm_f2_8_full_frame.html)