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Posts for: Lionel1954
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Dec 10, 2015 17:14:03   #
I have an AUTO setting on my D7100, now according to what I have read here in this forum, I can choose to set my D7100 as a point and shoot camera, by definition. It is not the tool that is being used that will create the image, rather it's the craftsman/artisan who produces the image. Put a $200.00 hammer in the hands of a novice, you will not get the best result but put a $20.00 hammer in the hands of a true craftman, the results would be dazzling.
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Dec 8, 2015 17:44:09   #
On the back of your camera you will notice over on the left that there are a button that has a - sign and another that has a + sign. When your viewing an image push on the button that has the + sign and your image will be zoomed into.

Have you ever though of getting a users guide? One can still download it from Nikon, just go to there site and click on service, you'll be able to find it there. It will answer all your question as well as questions to com.
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Dec 8, 2015 17:35:59   #
When the green dot found in the lower left of your view finder is on then you are in focus.
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Dec 8, 2015 17:34:19   #
DJO wrote:
I am still using my old but reliable Nikon D200. I don't even know If I have back focus capability because I've never had a need for it. Feel free to comment on or correct what I am about to guess, as your reply will certainly enlighten me, but I see no need to be impolite.

This is my question: How can you be certain that a BB exposure is EVER going to be in focus? This is my analogy: The circumstance would not be dissimilar to focusing a 4x5 camera. You pull the dark cloth over your head and every thing looks perfect on the ground glass (upside down and backward, of course), but you can't be certain without using a loupe. You could find yourself not even close to perfect.

I am wondering if anyone has ever had such a thought, or, even just for the heck of it, used a loupe on their screen?

Again, please pardon my ignorance.
I am still using my old but reliable Nikon D200. ... (show quote)


You have back button focus capability on the D200, I owned on.
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Dec 8, 2015 17:32:47   #
Papa j wrote:
I am relatively somewhat new to digital. I have learned a little LR and PS on the cloud. switch my cameras to BB focussing and I am enjoying these new elements. I recently noticed using manual focus when I'm not rushed produces a better image at least I think it is sharper. My question is in BB Focus mode I focus recompose and shoot or hold the BB for continuous focus. My quess is that in manual focus those options are not that same. Is my quess correct


Thanks
Joe


Joe the focus will be on as long as you hold down the Back button, when you take your finger off the button the focus is locked leaving you the opportunity to compose the image while the focus remains on what you focused for. I use a spot focus so that what I want in the image is what I get. Now there has been times that I held the focus button on while I was following a subject that was moving.
The principal is very easy to understand, push the button it focuses, remove finger focus is locked.
Now when you use manual focus you will notice a small green light in the lower left of your view finder, when the light is on you are in focus, when you rotate your focus ring you will be able to see when the green light appears.
Some of the other Hogs will surely help out as well.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:34:49   #
Are you sure you haven't set the AE/lAF/l button to back button focus. One of my friends had the same problem, struggled with it for about two weeks and was getting ready to send it to Nikon for repair when he handed it to me to see if I could find the problem. I use back button focus exclusively so I found the problem, it was something he was trying out awhile back and totally forgot that he had set it for back button focus, it happens! He was thrilled to see that his camera was not faulty but he was a little red faced about it.
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Dec 7, 2015 19:08:38   #
gvarner wrote:
I have a Nikon D7000 and a Nikon Speedlite SB600. Need a recommendation for a radio controlled trigger that would give me good range from the camera at around $50 to $100. I currently have an IR trigger that's good for line of sight and not too far away. It limits me on where I stand in relation to the camera's sensor. Your suggestions would be appreciated. It's on my Christmas list.


I use Cactus V5 triggers, you get a pair in a box for less than a hundred dollars and they are transceivers. Six radio settings to choose from depending if anyone is using a particular frequency and the range I have been able to use it has been over 30 meters, you may find that it does reach a little further.
I have four V5 I use one on the camera hot shoe as a transmiter and the others as receivers. I bought them last year for $138.00 CDN. Two sets of two. I bought them from Amazon.ca, the conversion rate from CDN$ to US$ is over 30% so I use a Canadian sites. I hope this helps, good luck in your reserch.
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Dec 7, 2015 18:50:56   #
par4fore wrote:
Shooting Manual to Me..
Shooting Manual in Aperture Priority- When shooting birds I shoot in aperture priority and adjust my ISO to control my shutter speed. As the light changes I will raise and hopefully lower the ISO so long as I get a speed that is acceptable or better. Add to this exposure compensation if needed.

Shooting Manual in Manual Priority- When shooting in manual mode I will set my ISO to auto-ISO and add to this exposure compensation if needed. To me this is what I consider “manual priority” but not fully manual.

Shooting Fully Manual- The only time I do this is on a tripod (landscapes) when I will set my ISO to 100, my f/stop to what is needed for the scene and dial in the shutter speed that satisfies my meter. If I need a slower shutter speed I will add ND filters. Still not sure but I guess this is fully manual?

I am not an expert, I am still learning and enjoy hearing other opinions. Thanks..
Shooting Manual to Me.. br Shooting Manual in Aper... (show quote)


Fully manual is simply aperture, shutter and ISO all manually set, just like the days of film.
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Dec 4, 2015 20:08:59   #
caps07 wrote:
I few years ago when I was taking one-to-one photo editing classes at Apple, they convinced me to upgrade to Aperture. I did and have used it successfully for years. Now in their wisdom, Apple has decided to get out of the editing business by replacing Aperture with the bare bones option of Photos. I don't know how much longer a can hold out on using Aperture without updates. What do you recommend? Affinity, Lightroom/Photoshop others? Thanks.


I switched over to Affinity, no regrets.
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Dec 3, 2015 17:37:29   #
Check your users guide, are you sure it can take a wired release? On my D300 I can use a cable release but I can't use a cable release on my D7100, on the D7100 I have to use the ML-3 IR release. Check also if the camera menu must be set. You'll get more info from the other Hogs as well.
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Dec 1, 2015 12:41:16   #
Hmarge wrote:
Just wondering, if you had a choice of having only one lens for your camera, which one would you keep and why?


My Nikon 60mm f:28D micro on my D7100 body.
I find it very useful 1:1 macro, shot portrait lens and a good street photography lens, all this and its built like the older AI-s lenses
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Nov 27, 2015 01:28:00   #
Mark7829 wrote:
Sharpness is only one criteria, you also want to talk elements and groups, chromatic aberration, distortion, weather sealing, coatings, VR, transmission rates, AF, AF override, materials, construction. rounded or square, and number of aperture blades and resale value?


I agree with all you say, all 100 -105mm lenses all seem equal in all those regards. Look into it for yourself and you will be amazed how closely they all are in those categories. Macro photography has been a staple with me from the early 1980's so I have amassed considerable amount of knowledge regarding macro photography equipment.
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Nov 27, 2015 01:00:16   #
Photobarker wrote:
I got a d600 nikon, looking for a great macro lens. Talk to me hogs


Keeping in mind that all 100mm macro lenses are pretty much equal in performance and sharpness.
The one lens that stands out above them all is the Tokina 100 mm macro lens and the added feature is that it is one of the least costly of all macro lenses.
FYI I shoot Nikon and of all my macro lenses my 100 mm macro is the tokina lens, it is built like a tank and the performance is second to none. (I own 4 macro lenses)
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Nov 24, 2015 16:39:09   #
Hi, the camera will work on M and A when using a non CPU lens. Personally I preferably shooting in A but I use M for my more finicky work. Time spent shooting will, as well as what your subject will help in deciding what priority you'll use.
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Nov 24, 2015 16:25:13   #
Hi, the (18/55) will serve you well. I must add that if you set your ISO @ 1600 it will not degrade the image and with VR on the lens you may even get an acceptable image shooting @ 1/30th or even slower if you brace yourself up against a object like a wall or a post. Remember if your subject is moving the results will be less than favourable as there movement will result in a blurry image if shooting @ 1/30th or slower. Concentrate on pre visualizing what is going on and you will know when to take the image. Like they say if you're aware your halfway there.
Good luck and enjoy.
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