Posts for: Gene51
Mar 31, 2023 14:39:15 #
SuperflyTNT wrote:
You clearly know nothing about Adobe.
He's been trolling around for years - an old dyed-in-the wool Luddite. Just ignore. Misinformed posts like his are the reason I no longer participate here. I just dropped by to see if anything had changed over the past few years. Clearly it has not. Oh well.
Mar 5, 2023 08:11:52 #
Ysarex wrote:
Enlarging an image changes DOF.
DOF is measured at the final image and nowhere else.
Changing from f/2.8 to f/4.0 will increase DOF all else equal.
Changing magnification by increasing focal length will decrease DOF all else equal.
Magnification is the dominant factor controlling DOF.
Grahame has it right above. The magnification increase will outweigh the f/stop change and DOF will decrease.
DOF is measured at the final image and nowhere else.
Changing from f/2.8 to f/4.0 will increase DOF all else equal.
Changing magnification by increasing focal length will decrease DOF all else equal.
Magnification is the dominant factor controlling DOF.
Grahame has it right above. The magnification increase will outweigh the f/stop change and DOF will decrease.
Grahame and you are 100% correct. Even viewing distance of the final print affects perceived DoF - but that's the subject of another 50 page discussion. :)
Mar 5, 2023 07:56:09 #
Jan 10, 2023 10:05:14 #
Jan 10, 2023 10:04:56 #
Jan 9, 2023 15:25:01 #
Ronjonron wrote:
When I first bought my OM 1 MII, I generally loved it but quickly noticed that low light required considerable ISO adjustments with the inevitable increase in noise. This, despite in camera stabilization. Can anyone offer opinions as to whether the latest OM 1 or LUMIX are superior in this regard? Thanks
As others have noted sensor size is the primary determinant for noise. On the other hand, pixel density is also an important consideration. Not only will reducing the pixel count to around 12 mp from a larger number have the effect of reducing noise, but new software from On1, Topaz and others offer noise reduction solutions that produce outstanding results that benefit greatly from more pixels especially if they are on larger sensors.
I use a Sony RX10M4 and still use a Nikon D810.
Jul 9, 2022 15:02:39 #
Busch wrote:
Had the Nikon 14-24 2.8. Used it so seldom that I traded it for the 28-300 & some money. Now i find I should have at least a decent wide angle lens. Can any one recommend a good fairly inexpensive FX wide angle? Third party OK. (It's for a D800.)
Thanks,
Busch
Thanks,
Busch
You traded away a great lens for a very mediocre one. Reconsider why you rarely used the 14-24 when you start looking for a lens that is wider than 28mm. You may be just buying another lens that will get very little use. You may want to think about learning to stitch panos in Lilghtroom or Photoshop - it will save you a lot of $$ down the road.
Look at my images in the Panorama section on UHH. They were all done as stitched panos and some are pretty wide.
Jul 9, 2022 14:56:53 #
Elmo55 wrote:
The question is: Do you PP one photo of a pano (if so which one), and copy the changes to the other photos in the pano, and then stitch? Or do you stitch the RAW files together, and then PP?
Shoot raw with a fixed white balance (not auto). Since panos often have a wide range of brightness, it's best to stitch then post process.
Jul 9, 2022 13:45:06 #
Jodevoy wrote:
When raw was new it seemed everyone said to shoot ... (show quote)
Shooting raw+jpeg never made any sense to me. Storage considerations aside, I often find myself shooting subjects of extreme contrast, and there is just no way you can get a decent result using a camera-generated jpeg. However, if I optimize the exposure for raw (expose FOR the right of the histogram), taking care to not blow the highlights, the result can be a very respectable image.
Jul 9, 2022 13:41:41 #
James May wrote:
A friend at the; local store said he was talking t... (show quote)
if you have extra batteries, the advice about card corruption may not be accurate. I've been reviewing and deleting images from my memory cards - (Sony memory sticks at first, then CF cards and SD cards) since 1990 and I have never had a card corrupted.
Jul 9, 2022 13:38:46 #
Just Fred wrote:
I took some photos this week at the Rock and Roll ... (show quote)
A circular polarizer "may" help. If the angle of incidence of the reflection is around 56° it will work, otherwise it will just reduce light by up to two stops, and you'll have to raise ISO, open the aperture on the lens and/or use a slower shutter speed.
Jul 9, 2022 13:35:22 #
bikinkawboy wrote:
There’s a D800 for sale locally for $500 with 40k ... (show quote)
Still have and use one of my D800s regularly. If you want the resolution of a D800, files will be large. Slight movement makes any camera take blurry images. Downsampling (taking a full 36mp image and resampling it to 12 mp, like a D700 or 24 mp like a D750) will reveal things about noise and blur that are not immediately obvious. It shoots 5 fps which is probably twice as fast as the last motor driven SLR I had.
The one thing you didn't mention was lens quality. The D800 was a game changer. Until then cameras had much lower resolution and were generally ok with less-than-optimal lenses. A lot of lenses that were fine on a 12 mp D700 often couldn't cut it on a 36 mp D800.
That cuts both ways. To get the most out of a D800 (or higher MP camera), one must get the sharpest lenses. The obvious benefit there is that your pictures will be sharper. . .
Jul 4, 2022 07:44:50 #
koratcat wrote:
I take photos for my local SPCA. In one of our rooms, the fluorescent lighting has started causing horizontal banding on images (bulbs were recently changed--before the change, I wasn't having the problem). This particular room is the only location available to me. Anyone know how I can eliminate the banding?
The best way is to use a camera that has an anti-flicker feature. The second best way is to use a shutter speed that is longer than 2x the line AC frequency. In the US it is 60 cycles, so you should use a shutter speed longer than 1/120. Shorter shutter speeds would cause the banding and uneven color.
https://www.nikonimgsupport.com/eu/BV_article?articleNo=000042893&configured=1&lang=en_GB
A third way which works very well is to use lighting that will overpower the ambient light, using a speedlight or hot light. In this case you would use a very short shutter speed (1/200 with many Canon cameras, or 1/250 with many Nikons - your camera manual will have the maximum shutter speed sync value), adjusting your ISO and aperture for the lighting.
Jul 4, 2022 07:36:57 #
goldenyears wrote:
I took a photo which has a lot of straight lines. But I neglected to pay enough attention to leveling the image. So the lines have a "stair-step" appearance which I think is Do I have any choice other than to acquire yet another photo editor?
Post an example.
Jul 4, 2022 07:35:03 #
kenArchi wrote:
If you use all focusing points then something other than your subject may be in focus?
Or the camera is able to focus on your subject.
I use the one center square focus point on the subject.
Or the camera is able to focus on your subject.
I use the one center square focus point on the subject.
Which camera? My Sony has 315 focus points - and while I use just center focus for acquisition, I keep all 315 active for tracking subject movement. My Nikons have something similar but the Sony includes facial recognition in addition to acquiring and tracking just the nearest object in the focusing target.
If you turn off all but one of the focus points you risk losing focus when the subject moves off the focus point.
Each camera is different, and each subject is different. Single point focus is great when you are dealing with a static or mostly static subject (landscapes, portraits etc), so a good understanding of your camera's focus modes and which is best for your subject will help inform your choices.