That tutorial seems more applicable to videography where the camera is moving around a particular scene-panning, zooming, dollying, and or/following action and therefore a flatter ratio is desirable except in a more static close up shot etc. The values are expressed in foot/ candles as opposed to f/stops which pertains more to continuous light as opposed to flash. I don't know what you are using for you portrait lighting gear.

Meter readings will get you into the ballpark but you final settings must be fine tuned visually when you see the test results of your setup. The exact key or light ratio of your images will depend on other factors aside for the basic readings. If you are using flash in an average size room with white or light colored walls and a white ceiling of average height. there is the factor of UNSEEN SECONDARY LIGHT. You can't see the light that bounces of all the surfaces in close proximity to the subject. The modeling lamps in most monolights are not strong enough for you to actually see this extraneous reflected light. If you are using speedlights, of course, there are no modeling lamps. The unseen light will, however, affect the exact ratio. The meter used as shown in the tutorial may not include or take into its reading this extra light which oftentimes causes overfilling of the shadows and results in a fairly flat ratio.

If at all possible, I recommend that you dry run some tests, perhaps a day before the actual shoot and nail down you exposures and ratios. When you have your main light functioning as to you desired exposure and ratio, attach a string to the light stand so that you can quickly and easily maintain the correct distance at the power setting you have pre-selected. If you decide to use a fixed fill light, you can easily change the ratio by altering the power output of the fill unit- the exposure for the main light shoud remain the same.

This concept will standardize your exposures and make ratio adjustment very convenient so that you can concentrate on posing, lighting aesthetics and expressions. It won't be necessary for you to make ongoing meter readings from one pose to another or from one subject to the next. Once I arrive at the basic set up, I do make readings jost to verify that everything is working properly. Of course, ocasional chimping helps to avoid mistakes and adjustments can be made quickly.

I hope this helps! Let me know!