I use the My Cloud successfully. It is password protected. Change password every 3 months or so. Access speed is determined by your IPS speed. Good way to access photos from anywhere, but I do not use unprotected wifi.

You can find the adapters on eBay, Around $15. There are 2 types: 1. without glass that does not focus to infinity but which will not degrade the image, 2. with glass that can focus to infinity but the extra glass will somewhat degrade the image quality. You can get either type of adapter with an electronic focus indicator that will beep the camera when the subject is in focus. These are slightly more expensive. I have tried all types and for a high quality old lens, it is worth getting the adapter.

One more use for the old lenses (28mm to 50mm lenses) is to purchase a reverse mount adapter. Using a reverse mount adapter would allow you to use the lens as a macro lens. You would need to purchase a reverse mount adapter with a diameter that fits the lens' specific filter ring diameter. And the adapter would need to match your new DSLR (for example, Canon, Nikon, Olympus, Sony, etc.). Focus would be manual, but you can put the camera in Aperture or Manual Priority and you will still achieve auto exposure. Have fun.

Make sure the History Panel is open and visible (in PS or LR). Each of your adjustments is recorded in the History Panel as a separate item. You can then just click on the specific history item that you want to go back to. All of the items after the one you clicked on are still there, but you can start over from a specific point and not go back all the way back to the beginning.

Check out the tutorials from Serge Ramelli on You Tube. He has a basic work flow for ACR or Lightroom that is easy to follow, provides great initial adjustments of your raw files. He then has subsequent adjustments in PS or LR for landscapes, portraits, macros, and other types of shots. He likes quite vibrant landscape adjustments that may or may not suit you or your photo, but his basic adjustments are where I always start when processing a raw file.

Suggestion: Purchase an older manual lens, focal length of 28 - 50mm, prime. A lens with a shorter or longer focal length will be hard to focus, if it can be focused at all. The manual lens can be any brand, but an old manual Canon FD lens is recommended because you can also purchase an adapter to use the FD lens as a manual lens, un-reversed, on your 70D. These older manual lenses are very inexpensive. Once you have the manual lens, determine the front filter diameter and purchase the reverse mount adapter to fit that diameter. By purchasing and using a reverse mount manual lens, you can change the aperture manually while the lens is on the camera. You cannot do that with an EOS lens. If you have a camera shop close by, they will probably have older lenses for sale. Try one out to make sure you can manually adjust the aperture. Some older lenses will not easily allow manual aperture changes when the lens is not attached to an old manual camera.

Set your camera for A Priority (or M Priority), attach the lens and fire away. A tripod is highly recommended since you will have no IS and focusing at macro distances introduces a lot of camera shake, unless you have a very steady hand.

Regular mount (ie, unreversed) adapters come in 2 varieties, with glass and without glass. An adapter with glass will allow you to focus to infinity, although the glass somewhat reduces image quality. An adapter without glass will not allow you to focus to infinity and behaves like a short extension tube - ie, you can focus somewhat closer. Again, set your camera to A Priority (or M Priority) and fire away. Have fun and post some of your pictures back here.

Remember, in A Priority mode, you will need to set the aperture directly on the lens and you will need to focus manually. In M Priority, you will need to set the aperture and shutter speed both manually (aperture set on the lens, shutter speed set in the camera) and focus will be manual on the lens.

Great camera. Could the wifi be turned off in the menu? I presume that you had downloaded pictures via wifi previously using the earlier version of EOS Utility and it worked okay. Is that correct?

What camera model do you have? Does it have wifi/lan capability to download pictures? If not, you may have selected an option in the installation process that is not available with your camera model.

DOF in a photo is the combined distance in front of your subject and behind your subject that is in relatively good focus. Bokeh generally refers to the "quality" of the focus "outside" of the DOF either in front of or behind your main subject. Generally, bokeh is thought of as that area behind your subject that is not in focus, but could also be a foreground element (ie, in front and maybe to the side of your subject) that is not in focus. Bokeh can be a subjective effect, put into a photo consciously by the photographer through the use of DOF. A "pleasing" bokeh may be considered a background (ie, area behind your main subject) that is not in focus and which helps to better direct the viewer's eye toward the main subject by eliminating a cluttered or distracting background. The same may be said for a foreground element. DOF and therefore the extent and quality of bokeh are controlled by the lens aperture. Aperture selection is a subjective choice made by the photographer. Through the subjective choices in aperture and therefore bokeh, a photographer can turn a simple photograph into an artful photograph.

One thing I forgot to note, you need the newest Eye-Fi app loaded onto your computer, iPad, iPhone or Android device. It's free. Once your device is connected to the Eye-Fi ad-hoc network, run the Eye-Fi app to get your photos sent to your computer or device. Good luck!

Since you like sport photography, I would suggest you consider the one that has the fastest frames per second. I have the 40D which does 8 frames/second. I have used it for fast moving hockey games and it allows me to get multiple quick shots of the player motion and it stops the action well with good lighting.

Great. Same card i have. You should be good to go. When the card is in your camera, and the camera is turned on, get your device or computer to look for and then log on to the ad-hoc Eye-Fi network. Once connected, the card will send your images directly to your device or computer. Good luck. Let me know how it works.

Which Eye-Fi card do you have. There has been a firmware update to the Pro card. It now puts out its own ad-hoc wi-fi network similar to what the CamRanger does. It is no longer necessary to connect from the Eye-Fi card to your wi-fi device through another network. Just connect your wi-fi device (iPad, Android, etc) directly to the Eye-Fi network. It is much easier and there is no need for a hot spot. Still slow with raw files, though. If you have a different Eye-Fi card, however, you still need to connect through a separate network.

When using the Cam Ranger, the photo is stored on your CF or SD card inside the camera. You can also store it on your iPad. Works great, especially for focus stacking macro shots.

I have used Minolta Rokkor X MC/MD mount lenses with adapters on a Canon 40D. In order to focus to infinity, the adaptor must have a lens built in. That means a loss of quality. It is possible to use Minolta lenses with Canon EOS cameras with adapters that have no glass, but you cannot focus to infinity. The adapter works like adding an extension tube between the camera and the lens thus turning the lens into a close-up lens. If you are into close-up photography, then this is a very good use for the old Minolta lenses on Canon EOS cameras.

Olympic digital cameras, on the other hand, allow the use of Minolta (and many other legacy lenses) using a no-glass adapter with infinity focus possible. If you don't mind the full manual functionality of the camera/lens combination, then this is a good use for the legacy lenses. You can purchase an Olympic e-Volt camera, such as the e510 for very little cash. Some of the aperture levers on the Minolta lenses must be clipped slightly in order to work with some of the Olympic cameras. The e510 does not have this problem. The e3 does have this problem. If you are going to try an Olympic camera, search online first about these lever problems. There is a wealth of information online about using legacy lenses with Canon, Nikon and Olympic cameras.

I have used the Minolta lenses on both Canon and Olympic digital cameras. Canon for close-ups only. The quality is very good - very sharp photos - the Minolta lenses do not have the glass coatings that modern lenses have, so flaring can be a problem. I think the Minolta lenses will vignette on full frame Canons. On the Olympics, with the 4/3 sensor, vignetting is not a problem at all. Since everything is manual, the subjects I have photographed with these setups are mostly close-ups (Canon) and landscape (Olympic), mostly with tripod - no IS on the Canon, but the built in IS on the Olympic does help with hand holding.

The adapters are not costly, so go for it. Just remember that focus to infinity on the Canon is only possible with an adapter that has a built-in lens. Get a good quality, sturdy adapter. Some I purchased initially would bend with long focal length lenses - I have used up to a 300mm Minolta on the Olympic.

Good luck and have fun. Let us know how it works.