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Nov 8, 2011 13:39:36   #
I'm sure this has been or is being discussed somewhere on this website but since I'm a newbie I'll bring it up. I have boxes of slides from the early eighties that were shot in the Rockies and want to play around with them in CS5. So far in trying to scan they come up with WAY too much contrast. Trying to correct this in CS5 still hasn't gotten what I want. Could be the cheap scanner I bought. I also would like to work some in B/W. Any feedback on products for that purpose? Thanks in advance!
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Nov 8, 2011 09:18:15   #
I just ran across an ad in Outdoor Photographer for a device called HoodLoupe. Carry it around your neck on the strap and hold it to the display for viewing. Has + - 3 diopter. Sounds a little clumbsy put maybe with a little practice,who knows.

pounder35
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Nov 7, 2011 20:46:15   #
You're right. I may have given inaccurate info but I seem to remember the T-90 using the FD lenses rather than EF. It's been years since I've seen a T-90 but I remember thinking it was a great design and built like a tank. I have an Eos 650 that I still use that takes the AF lenses but uses film. I don't find myself using it much anymore. Film processing is getting harder to find locally but I'm still setting up a B/W darkroom for my Mamiya 645 1000s.

pounder35
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Nov 7, 2011 20:34:09   #
One thing to realize is that the moon is a direct reflection of the sun. Exposure would normally be about 1/500 at f8 with 200 ISO. Shoot manually if you can set exposure. The ideal lens would be 500mm or longer but I've taken a good full moon shot with the digital equivalent of 450mm. The reason I mention exposure detail is due to the fact that your a bright subject (reflection of the sun) against what will be a large black area unless you have high telephoto magnification. The "black" area will trick the camera into overexposing and wipe out the crater details. Also it's best to bracket exposures. Most digital SLR's have an auto bracket feature that allows up to +2 and -2.
Mine has that but I'm not smart enough to use it. Just kidding but I still like doing everything manually. Even with those exposure settings (high shutter speed) I would still use a tripod and either cable release or use the self timer. If your on a tripod and spending a lot of time adjusting exposure etc. check the view. That moon will move out of the frame quicker than you think.

pounder35
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Nov 7, 2011 20:18:37   #
Thank you. I've been playing around with digital with my Canon D60 and trying to teach myself CS5. It's fun but I miss the old fashion darkroom also. I have the equipment but can't find the time to set everything up. I bought a Mamiya 645 1000S recently on Ebay and some Ilford paper which is probably the best paper I ever used. I'm plan to buy some Ilford 120 but would rather wait until I can set up the darkroom. I'll check out the site further and see if there is anyone still getting wet. (Film the old fashion way.) It's funny but I talk to people on occasion at camera meets and they don't know pre-digital and darkrooms. What a shame.

pounder35
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Nov 7, 2011 15:04:10   #
What brand and model? With most older film cameras a complete shutter replacement was not needed. Usually just replace the blades. Could still be pricy but usually worth it on a decent camera.
pounder35
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Nov 7, 2011 14:58:56   #
The old style lenses (FD) used manual couplings for diaphragm control which makes them pretty much useless even if the mount would work which it will not. Note the two levers on the back of the lens. Hope this helps!
pounder35
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Nov 7, 2011 14:29:31   #
This looks a very good forum for sharing info. My fun with photography goes back to about 1975 with the purchase of my first SLR. A Petri. (hold the laughter) I soon found myself with a partial scholarship to a small community college that involved my working at an equally small newspaper where in addition to shooting assignments I pretty much took over all the darkroom activities. I would not trade that experience for anything. Eventually I ended up working at a local camera store and became interested in doing repairs. I spent a year in Denver at National Camera and worked for about three years at a well established repair center before opening my own repair business and running it for about 23 years. Inexpensive digital finally made it impossible to earn a living in my location. I would love to try to help anyone with repair questions on film SLR's from the late 60's to late 80's. Might not be able answer everthing but I'll give it a try. Most of work dealt with Canon, Minolta, Nikon, Olympus, and Pentax but I tried a little of everything.

pounder35
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