cabodave Loc: Urbandale, Iowa

I need lots of help and would really like basic 1,2,3,

SQUIRL033 Loc: Chehalis, WA

1. you need a long lens... 200mm at a bare minimum, 400mm is better.
2. you need a tripod, and preferably a cable release.
3. for a full moon, set your camera for 1/125 @ f/8, ISO 200, and experiment from there. you may find you need a faster or slower shutter speed to get the exposure you want, but that's half the fun.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

This page will be in our future Frequently Asked Question section:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/user_page.jsp?upnum=109

cabodave Loc: Urbandale, Iowa

Thanks Rocky. Tonight is the night.

pounder35 Loc: "Southeast of Disorder"

One thing to realize is that the moon is a direct reflection of the sun. Exposure would normally be about 1/500 at f8 with 200 ISO. Shoot manually if you can set exposure. The ideal lens would be 500mm or longer but I've taken a good full moon shot with the digital equivalent of 450mm. The reason I mention exposure detail is due to the fact that your a bright subject (reflection of the sun) against what will be a large black area unless you have high telephoto magnification. The "black" area will trick the camera into overexposing and wipe out the crater details. Also it's best to bracket exposures. Most digital SLR's have an auto bracket feature that allows up to +2 and -2.
Mine has that but I'm not smart enough to use it. Just kidding but I still like doing everything manually. Even with those exposure settings (high shutter speed) I would still use a tripod and either cable release or use the self timer. If your on a tripod and spending a lot of time adjusting exposure etc. check the view. That moon will move out of the frame quicker than you think.

pounder35

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

From UHH future Frequently Asked Questions Section entitled:

"How to Shoot the Moon"

For focusing purposes, the moon can be considered an infinite distance from earth. It is always noon daylight on the lighted side of the moon, so your exposure should be 1/ISO (shutter speed) at f/16 (aperture). Full moon, half moon, quarter moon will be the same exposure, or very close.

Recommended starting exposure at ISO 400, manual settings of 1/400-sec at f/16, lens at infinite focal distance. Longer lenses means faster shutter speed (to reduce camera shake) and a little wider aperture.

When using a tripod turn OFF your IS (Image Stabilization) or VR (Vibration Reduction).

A prime lens will always be sharper than a zoom lens. The longer your lens, the less cropping required to enlarge image.

Indi Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.

I'd like to add one more.
Make sure you're set up on a stable surface.
I have an 8" reflector telescope. When I set it up on my back deck, made from that new-fangled composite stuff (trex?) the scope shimmys like crazy and I can't get a sharp image.
Concrete surface is best.

TerryT Loc: Aurora Colorado

Using mirror lock-up on your dslr also helps reduce shake to get a clearer image.

Douglas Downey Loc: Rye, NH

Just spent 10 minutes studying my new T2i and the manual for some sign of a cable release port. It doesn't seem to have one. Won't the self timer work as well?

Indi Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.

Looked over my D 5100 manual for mirror lockup but that mode is only for cleaning unless that's when I change from looking through the viewfinder to composing via the LCD screen.

The self-timer mode is definitely better than squeezing the shutter button if that's all you can do.

Awagner Loc: St. Louis

Switching to "Live View" on a Canon puts the camera into mirror lock up and I believe it works the same way on the Nikon DSLR's. Maybe one of the Nikon experts on this forum will chime in and veryify that, or not.
And the self timer will work the same way as the shutter remote. The key I find to all "moon shots" is exact focus and all equipment needs to be rock steady. At 300-500mm focal length, all it takes is a whisper of a breeze or a footstep near the tripod to create enough movement to blur a shot.

brokeweb Loc: Philadelphia

I shot this one at f /6.3, 1/400, & iso 100

asylum1972 Loc: Hilton Head Island, SC

You can use the self timer. I shoot HDR images on a tripod all using a cable release on my T2i. Looking at the back of the camera with the lens pointed forward, the port is on the left side of the body right under where you attach the camera strap.

Underneath the rubber door you'll see the port where you would plug your USB cable to download photos to your PC. The round hole right above it is the plug-in for the cable release.

Hope this helps!

Indi Loc: L. I., NY, Palm Beach Cty when it's cold.

Ah! Live View. That's what I thought. Thanks a million. Gonna try this Friday night.

Another thought. Should I shoot in HDR?

asylum1972 Loc: Hilton Head Island, SC

Indi, If you do shoot HDR, very curious to see how they come out. Promise to share?