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Posts for: HarryBinNC
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Nov 8, 2013 10:18:40   #
PW4GDF wrote:
Hello All,
Has anyone used this and what sort of result? RR paper has it on sale now and I am thinking about trying it. I have a regular (not special) Canon printer.
Thanks,
Wendy
Cocoa


I keep a supply of 17 x 25 sheets on hand. I really like it for some landscapes - it seems to restore some of the "pop" or luminosity that often gets lost between the monitor and the paper.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:30:02   #
Ricoh makes very good small cameras for the serious enthusiast. Their lenses, features and build quality are excellent.

I am looking forward to what they come up with now that they own Pentax.

I just gave my Ricoh GX200 to a friend who wanted to progress above a point and shoot. I shot a gazillion images with that little camera and it still works as new.
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Mar 7, 2013 09:33:12   #
architect wrote:
I come from a 35mm film and medium format background where you had to select everything manually, even (gasp) focusing! 90% of my shooting is in Aperture Priority and here is my reasoning why. For control of DOF, AP is a no-brainer. For control of speed, where the highest speed possible is desired, AP works fine by setting the aperture wide open and setting an Auto ISO limit higher than base ISO with a minimum shutter speed. Depending on the lighting and contrast conditions, I adjust exposure using the exposure compensation adjustment based on the histogram or viewing the LCD (I view using the "blinkies" mode.)

My point is, I do no use AP because I am lazy. I use it, combined with the other controls I mentioned, because I find it the simplest way to get exactly what I want.
I come from a 35mm film and medium format backgrou... (show quote)


How is what you are describing any simpler than using manual exposure? Since any decent modern camera with Manual settings capability will have a "Light Meter" in the viewfinder, it is no more difficult to set up a full manual exposure than it is to use Aperture preferred with Exposure Compensation. Either way, you are adjusting two controls. Except only ONE of those ways will give you absolute, predictable exposure settings every time.

And, as someone else already pointed out; Aperture preferred, Shutter preferred and Auto ISO are ALL AUTO settings where the camera is making the final decision about exposure, NOT YOU. Unless you are shooting a static subject with your camera on a tripod, you cannot expect shot to shot uniformity in exposure unless you are on full Manual, since even slight shifting of the camera between shots can result in the camera changing exposure settings.

The only reason I ever use Auto anything is when I am just out doing casual photography ("grab shots") where I can't expect to have the time to set up the exposure and/or focus. In that situation, I will almost always use Aperture preferred and auto ISO with a minimum shutter speed setting if the camera allows it.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
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Feb 5, 2013 13:08:52   #
pounder35 wrote:
Aaronphoto wrote:
Not bad for a 4 year old


http://www.wimp.com/oldschool/


Is that actually Little Richard?


If you mean the Rock 'n' Roll pioneer Little Richard Penniman, not likely - he played sax during his school years, and didn't play piano until the early 50's, when he would have been 20 or so. And, as far as I know, his first film appearance was in "The Girl Can't Help It" from 1956, when he would have been about 24.

That kid there with Van Johnson was awesome for his age - I would love to know more about him.
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Feb 5, 2013 12:14:41   #
DaveMM wrote:
If the picture you posted is the file you tried to print, not a scan of the print, then it has far too much red in it on my monitor. Although I only use a software calibration device, most downloaded pictures look right for colour on it.

I would suggest that it is your monitor at fault here.


I am looking at your photo on a calibrated monitor, and agree with Dave - you need a calibrated display - your image has too much red in it.
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Feb 5, 2013 12:03:08   #
BillyDuds wrote:
Lots of good advice here already on visiting the SC and NC coast. As said, Myrtle Beach is a golfer magnet (50 some courses) but otherwise it tends to be crowded and tacky -- think putt-putt courses with giant volcanos and gorillas. Myrtle Beach biker weeks can offer much camera fodder, both the polished custom cycles and their photogenic riders. If you happen to be into that, I don't figure you could beat the great shots you might get in a few days there. Of course, motels and restaurant space may be hard to find just then.
Lots of good advice here already on visiting the S... (show quote)


The Myrtle Beach city fathers made it very clear several years ago that biker gatherings would no longer be welcome in their fair city. We much prefer the Outer Banks or the many beach communities south of there.
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Feb 5, 2013 11:49:46   #
oldtool2 wrote:
HarryBinNC wrote:
Jblanke wrote:
To the issue of adjusting a circular polarizing filter while simultaneously using lens hoods? I do a lot of shoreline bird shooting that requires a circular polarizer as well as use of lens hoods. Adjustments to the polarizer are, at best, clumsy with lens hoods in place. Any ideas?


I use a polarizer a lot - I never use lens hoods, I use my hand on those rare occasions when I am worried about flare. I find it very easy to avoid the need for a hood. Of course, if you are trying to shoot with long lenses without using a tripod, I can see where it might be hard to free up a hand to shade the lens.
quote=Jblanke To the issue of adjusting a circula... (show quote)


I have a problem with shooting and not using a hood. The hood does more than just reduce glare, it protects the front of the lens in case you drop it or bump it into something. It is much cheaper to replace a hood than to have a lens repaired or having to replace a good cpl. Please don't tell me that has never happened to you.

Murphys law says if you make a statement like that it will happen shortly. That little ba^%#rd is always around close by!

Jim D
quote=HarryBinNC quote=Jblanke To the issue of a... (show quote)


Well, Jim, I hope you are wrong about that, because in about 50 years of taking pictures, I have yet to drop or bang my camera against anything hard enough to hurt either a camera or a lens!
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Jan 29, 2013 09:49:22   #
Kinopless wrote:
You're just baiting us aren't you ? I'll start.. Hogwash.. :D


No, it isn't.
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Jan 29, 2013 09:04:53   #
denisNC wrote:
You have to go online to get manuals for all Nikon Cameras


Every one of my Nikons have come with a big fat printed manual.

However, I always download the PDFs from Nikon - it is a lot easier to find stuff and to read it on the computer.
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Jan 28, 2013 17:27:47   #
Jblanke wrote:
To the issue of adjusting a circular polarizing filter while simultaneously using lens hoods? I do a lot of shoreline bird shooting that requires a circular polarizer as well as use of lens hoods. Adjustments to the polarizer are, at best, clumsy with lens hoods in place. Any ideas?


I use a polarizer a lot - I never use lens hoods, I use my hand on those rare occasions when I am worried about flare. I find it very easy to avoid the need for a hood. Of course, if you are trying to shoot with long lenses without using a tripod, I can see where it might be hard to free up a hand to shade the lens.
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Jan 21, 2013 16:58:52   #
skidooman wrote:
I see you are hand holding,,,why not a tripod, and bracket your shots with a longer exposure, and eliminate the flash and take advantage of the ambient light? Just a thought.


Ambient light never adequately illuminates a room bigger than a small bathroom. And, if you try to use lamp light, the lamps and the windows will be blown out due to the relatively long exposures needed to properly expose the room interior. Using flash gives good illumination and allows you to preserve the windows. The incandescent lamps around the room then just give a nice warm glow to the exposures.
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Jan 19, 2013 17:56:31   #
chrome98 wrote:
No. Google Drive is more like drop box only better. Google plus gives you a little functionality but not much. Its OK if you are just sharing pics I suppose.

But Google Drive you can store/share ANY file, PSDs or filters files, anything.

Check it out it free and easy to use on all devices


Dropbox is not just for image files - it is for any kind of data that you can store on a computer.
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Jan 19, 2013 16:14:43   #
windshoppe wrote:
I have no experience whatsoever with metallic prints, but have been told by a number of people that one of my photos would be great in that medium. Do any of you have recommendations for an online lab that does a good job in this area?


Red River paper sells a beautiful metallic luster paper if you have access to a photo inkjet printer.
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Jan 17, 2013 10:39:59   #
ASR666 wrote:
I have a Sekonic light meter and it's returned its value many times over ... its a must for studio work. Also very useful for brightly-lit outdoor shots (e.g. sunlit roofs and a dark alleyway). You can spot meter the EV range and then (a) expose for highlights, mid or shadow or (b) bracket.


fgriffin wrote:
Given new high end cameras and their light metering capability, do I really need to by a light meter? Would appreciate feedback
thanks


When shooting hand-held, I set the camera's metering mode to central spot, and check the exposure around the image area just as I would with a stand-alone meter. I still have a couple of hand-held meters, but rarely find a need for them, especially since the camera's histogram on playback makes it so quick and easy to fine-tune exposure for critical shots. About the only time I still use a hand held meter is when setting up a studio shot with flash.
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Jan 12, 2013 15:29:35   #
MT Shooter wrote:
The viewfinder shutter has been on Nikon Pro and Semi-Pro models for decades. All the single digit cameras have them, and my D800's both do as well.


The D700 has one as well.
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