Advice on Use of Speedlights in Quick Interior Architecture Shots: By quick, I mean I have maybe 30 to 45 minutes to photograph a space for rent or sale. I do have time to open window...

architect Loc: Chattanooga

By quick, I mean I have maybe 30 to 45 minutes to photograph a space for rent or sale. I do have time to open window shades, turn on all artificial lights and adjust some of the objects in the room. Intent is to show a well lit interior to showcase the space for rent, not to create a moody shot.

I have been using my Nikon D90 with the Tokina 11-16 mm F2.8 lens set at 1/60 sec and around F5.6 and using my Nikon SB-700 speedlight with the clip on diffuser, on camera, aimed up at the ceiling. I also hand hold my shots, without a tripod.

Problem is the shadows cast by fan lights and chandeliers, as seen in this example, which I have had to take the time to clone out in post production.

Any suggestions for a simple and quick solution?

Note undesirable shadows cast by the fan light

Wabbit Loc: Arizona Desert

architect wrote:

By quick, I mean I have maybe 30 to 45 minutes to ... (show quote)

Hey Doc ..... you can add wireless slave flash units to eliminate the shadows

jdubu Loc: San Jose, CA

Down and dirty, don't use small diffuser or direct/bounced flash aimed into the scene. As you have noted, it still creates too much stark shadow.

1 easy set up is to bounce a flash out of an umbrella from an imaginary highish window location pointing down off camera.

A setup with a flash/umbrella holder on a light stand is cheap, quick and easy to position. The attached example is one 43" bounce umbrella and available lighting.

skidooman Loc: Minnesota

I see you are hand holding,,,why not a tripod, and bracket your shots with a longer exposure, and eliminate the flash and take advantage of the ambient light? Just a thought.

architect Loc: Chattanooga

jdubu wrote:

Down and dirty, don't use small diffuser or direct/bounced flash aimed into the scene. As you have noted, it still creates too much stark shadow.

1 easy set up is to bounce a flash out of an umbrella from an imaginary highish window location pointing down off camera.

A setup with a flash/umbrella holder on a light stand is cheap, quick and easy to position. The attached example is one 43" bounce umbrella and available lighting.

Great example. I will look into the umbrella idea.

architect Loc: Chattanooga

skidooman wrote:

I see you are hand holding,,,why not a tripod, and bracket your shots with a longer exposure, and eliminate the flash and take advantage of the ambient light? Just a thought.

I do have a tripod handy if needed, but with the speedlight I can generally match the value of the ambient light in the dark corners of the room, which is the look my client is looking for.

jeryh Loc: Oxfordshire UK

The best idea is to get a Nikon ringflash- you will get rid of all shadows this way

terjecan

Another option is to place a couple of continuous lights (cord or battery) in hidden locations and aimed at the shadows you don't want. Also consider turning off fan light.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

architect wrote:

By quick, I mean I have maybe 30 to 45 minutes to ... (show quote)

Any consideration to HDR?

architect Loc: Chattanooga

jerryc41 wrote:

Any consideration to HDR?

The client does not want the HDR look at all. That certainly is a consideration to try. In my opinion, the best HDR does not look like HDR and that would probably work. I do my best HDRs using Layers only, not the software. I then have complete control over the final image.

architect Loc: Chattanooga

terjecan wrote:

Another option is to place a couple of continuous lights (cord or battery) in hidden locations and aimed at the shadows you don't want. Also consider turning off fan light.

The quick and dirty method I need pretty much eliminates adding lights, as I need to take about 25 different shots in about 30 minutes to an hour. Using my speedlight directed at the ceiling above me is what creates the shadows on the hanging fixtures, not the fan lights themselves.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

architect wrote:

jerryc41 wrote:

Any consideration to HDR?

In my opinion, the best HDR does not look like HDR and that would probably work.

Right. Make it look good, not like HDR.

JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

architect wrote:

terjecan wrote:

Another option is to place a couple of continuous lights (cord or battery) in hidden locations and aimed at the shadows you don't want. Also consider turning off fan light.

The quick and dirty method I need pretty much eliminates adding lights, as I need to take about 25 different shots in about 30 minutes to an hour. Using my speedlight directed at the ceiling above me is what creates the shadows on the hanging fixtures, not the fan lights themselves.

I thought I saw you mention a reflector on the flash. I wonder if the shadow is coming from that or direct spillover from the flash. The shadows wouldn't be from the ceiling. Removing the card from the flash so the light is coming only from he ceiling should eliminate those shadows. The trade-off is you lose that extra light off of the card.

architect Loc: Chattanooga

JBTaylor wrote:

quote=architect quote=terjecan Another option is... (show quote)

I will look into that. Thanks.

RocketScientist Loc: Littleton, Colorado

architect wrote:

The quick and dirty method I need pretty much eliminates adding lights, as I need to take about 25 different shots in about 30 minutes to an hour. Using my speedlight directed at the ceiling above me is what creates the shadows on the hanging fixtures, not the fan lights themselves.

On the fan lights, I agree, they aren't so bright that they cast their own shadow, but they seem like they might be better off dimmed or lower wattage bulbs to help fix that bright spot.