llindstrand wrote:
I tired DXO about 5 years ago and decided that it wasn't for me. If I remember correctly it converted the RAW images into DXO format and the RAW was no longer available. My memory is foggy on that point; but I went back and looked at some old pictures and I only ended up with JPEG's. Check the trial software and then make your choice. Mine was to follow the Photoshop route.
By default, DxO does not touch the original RAW file. You can choose one or more output options, which include jpeg, tiff, dng, and others.
Depending on how you edit pictures, you could end up with several files for the same photo: Example: original RAW, TIFF from DxO , PhotoShop file and final JPEG/TIFF or whatever for printing/posting. I'm guessing that some people batch process entire folders with DxO before final editing. Others process only the few photos that need DxO's custom "tweaking". Personally, I use DxO only for a very few pictures. Then, edit the same pictures without DxO and pick the version I like best.
Izzy wrote:
I have 2 ps cameras, one is a Nikon the other is Sony, I would like to get some help, I read the manual and set my camera and the photos are a mess, I can't get them to go back to factory reset, I know there's a way, I would only like to work with maybe two people through email, this way the threads aren't so long, I also asked a while back about a very, very easy book to learn LR, can't find where I wrote it down, I take so many notes from on here I confuse myself. If u are ready for a challenge please contact me via email. Thanks in advance
I have 2 ps cameras, one is a Nikon the other is S... (
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My Nikon D80 has two ways to Reset, "Two-Button Reset" and "Custom Settings Reset". They are different. (I learned the hard way.) The manual lists the differences. I suspect other cameras also have different Reset options.
DxO Optics Pro is not a normal photo editing program.
Check the DxO web site for complete info and demos.
Depending on how you want to edit your pics, it may or may not replace what you're already using. For me, DxO is not. It works best for RAW photos as the first step in processing your photos.
It fixes flaws (e.g. Uneven sharpness, vignetting, distortions, chromatic aberrations, etc.). It does not do spot editing like other editing applications.
Import your photos from your camera. Then send them through DxO which optimizes them based on your camera lens combination of each photo. You can batch process. Example: If you used several lenses (e.g. telephoto, fisheye, etc.), it will automatically correct the distortion of of EACH photo based on the lens used for that photo. DxO then saves the optimized photos for final "tweaking" in PhotoShop or or other editing program.
The basic difference between the Standard & Elite versions is the camera/lens library. Get the version that supports your equipment. It automatically downloads the camera/lens module as needed for free.
Been using my Black Rapid for a couple of years. Love it.
1. Attaching to the tripod hole is probably as strong or stronger than the camera's neck strap attachments.
2. I screw the Black Rapid screw until the rubber washer compresses a little. I've never had the screw loosen in the least.
3. Normally, attach a Markins quick-release plate into the camera. Then screw the Black Rapid screw into the plate. I can then quickly switch from the Black Rapid strap to my tripod or monopod.
Warning: Some people use non-Black Rapid screws (e.g. Manfrotto). This is unwise since the "ring" on these screws is not made to support a camera. The "ring" can come off and your camera can ungracefully fall off.
I suspect it may. Test by taking pictures that have reflecting object(s) to see what flashes reflect. I have the Nikon R1 wireless close-up speed light system. With this, the pop-up flash triggers remote SB-R200 flashes. The kit includes an infrared filter that goes in front of the pop-up flash. Thus, only infrared commands, not visible light goes to the remote flashes and possibly the subject. Perhaps, the visible light output is so low that it's needed only for close-up photography. Bottom line: Make some test shots and see.
Check page 96 in the Nikon D80 Manual. Go to Menu > Custom Setting > 22 Built-in Flash. Click Right. Choose "C" Commander Mode. Click Right. Choose Built-in flash > "--" to turn off built (pop-up) flash. Set other settings (e.g. Group & Comp) for remote flash(es). Be sure to click OK to set your final options. Pop-up flash must be up when taking pictures, since it is still controlling the other flashes. Set remote flash(es) to same (A or B) Group. When done, double check all settings. Bottom line: You can control your pop-up flash and one or two groups of remote flash(es) any way you want.
My Nikon D80 does not have a mirror lockup for taking pictures. However, it has an "Exposure Delay Mode". Go to Menu > Custom Setting > 31 Exp. delay mode. This delays the shutter by about 0.4 seconds after the shutter button is pressed. So you trigger the shutter via the shutter button, timer, or remote. The mirror flips up. The camera waits about .4 seconds while vibrations dampen. Then the shutter fires. I suspect other cameras have a similar feature.
On a Macintosh I get the shutter count of a Nikon raw (NEF) photo using the Preview applications. Go to Tools > Show Inspector > More Info > Nikon > Shutter Count.