Megapixel advice wanted.
Jan 29, 2018 07:34:05 #
CHG_CANON wrote:
The OP could also get a faster lens ... A modest investment in an EF 50 f/1.8 will likely help in the photography at the model contests at a modest $150, an image improvement for all EOS bodies from the lenses currently being used. A speedlight (external) flash will also likely help things at a more modest investment cost than a new high-megapixel body.
I don’t think that f/1.8 is going to help his DOF issues one iota...
Jan 29, 2018 07:41:41 #
jonfrei wrote:
I donâÂÂt think that f/1.8 is going to help his DOF issues one iota...
Exactly!!! It is all about DOF unless you are just shooting straight side on shots which is not typically what you want. Here are a couple examples at f/22 from my DOF calculator. assuming you can get within one foot and focus that close too.
Jan 29, 2018 07:47:46 #
Jan 29, 2018 08:03:05 #
ToBoldlyGo wrote:
So nice to see people recommending a smartphone for photography in certain situations. There can be a lot of snobbery about them on these forums, it's quite refreshing.
Agreed. Smart phone cameras can produce excellent results, except for when they don't. There are situations where they are a good choice like this, and other situations where they're next to useless.
They are pretty good cameras these days, and the best choice for many situations and purposes.
They are a complement to our other gear, not a replacement for it.
Jan 29, 2018 09:17:47 #
Novicus
Loc: north and east
Micro Nikkor 105 mm f2.8...it`s long focal length enables a reasonable long shooting distance, clearing bigger D O F ,may be helpfull with using ambient lighting...no more leaning over tables ( avoiding awkward shooting position )..Sharp as Sharp can be...available secondhand for a modest price.
Jan 29, 2018 09:18:00 #
Phone cameras are not good for stoping motion or shallow DOF. But you can also shoot video and view that or perhaps pull stills from the video...
Jan 29, 2018 09:19:15 #
Jerry Green
Loc: Huntsville, AL
I use a smartphone stabilizer with two small LED lights for photographing small things. This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MYN5WW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074MYN5WW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Jan 29, 2018 10:07:17 #
i have a AMARAN HN 100 HALO ,it is a ring light device for close up , [ $ 60 ] try that it work ok for close up , bright enough .
Jan 29, 2018 11:19:10 #
I've shot several model train layouts and I offer one tip which I'm sure the OP already knows.
Shoot from the ground level of the layout for the most realistic looking effect to your photos. Shooting from above looking down always conveys a "model" effect. Think as if this were a real scene and you had a proportional sized camera and tripod and where would you stand. You certainly wouldn't have a birds eye view.
I think Smart phone cameras are perfect for this type of shooting.
Shoot from the ground level of the layout for the most realistic looking effect to your photos. Shooting from above looking down always conveys a "model" effect. Think as if this were a real scene and you had a proportional sized camera and tripod and where would you stand. You certainly wouldn't have a birds eye view.
I think Smart phone cameras are perfect for this type of shooting.
Jan 29, 2018 11:31:36 #
Considering where you are shooting, umbrellas and even multiple off camera flashes would prove problematic and hack off other people in the crowd. You should have a macro lens. Two or three element ring flashes are compact and changes in lighting accomplished in seconds. The ring will allow you to shoot at sweet spot of lens (usually f/8 on f/2.8 macro). Megapixels won’t help unless you plan on making extreme enlargements or have to crop in on non-macro shots. Spend your money on great glass and save a little for the ring flash.
Jan 29, 2018 11:37:49 #
Novicus wrote:
Micro Nikkor 105 mm f2.8...it`s long focal length enables a reasonable long shooting distance, clearing bigger D O F ,may be helpfull with using ambient lighting...no more leaning over tables ( avoiding awkward shooting position )..Sharp as Sharp can be...available secondhand for a modest price.
This suggestion is reasonable but does bring megapixels into play if not shooting up close. Not controlling lighting may not give you desired result. The Micro 105mm is my choice. The 60 and 80mm are good choices also but require you get closer.
Jan 29, 2018 11:43:00 #
cdayton wrote:
Heresy in this group but I agree. I usually pull out the iPhone SE for close-ups like this.
Yep. iPhones are great for close work.
Jan 29, 2018 11:48:05 #
lmTrying wrote:
My alias is modelbuilder1. I enjoy building scale ... (show quote)
You do not need to get close, you need a light modifier that can wrap light around your subject , you can use a longer lens and step back a bit and use good flash off camera with a small 8" x 4" soft box , if you can use a small tripod you can do an HDR bracket image . 3 or more shots at diff shutter speeds works very well for me . Now you can increase your depth of field with f 8 to f11....on a tripod you can also drag your shutter down to below 1/30 of second which will also bring ambient light into play . Shutter speed has no effect on flash photography your only worry is f stop . Because of the speed of light . Wedding photographers use this every day . When doing walk backs they pick high f stops say f11 and on a tripod drop the shutter speed to fill in shadows cast by the flash on the back walls the flash stops the action and the ambient light fills in shadows.
Jan 29, 2018 11:53:27 #
lmTrying wrote:
My alias is modelbuilder1. I enjoy building scale ... (show quote)
Just on the difference in megapixels; going from 12 to 20 represents an increase of 67%, whereas going from 20 to 24 is a 20% increase in megapixels, close to inconsequential. Even if it is an increase, it's less than one third of the increase you got going from 12 to 20.
Jan 29, 2018 11:58:22 #
burkphoto wrote:
Yep. iPhones are great for close work.
I agree smartphones are convenient, unobtrusive and can yield acceptable results. However, stability is an issue even if the phone says IS. OP also mentioned difficult lighting. Smartphones can’t really compensate for that with the one straight on flash.
If you choose to use a smartphone get Camera+ for better control of DOF. Easy to learn. A small Gorilla tripod, smartphone holder and remote release (volume control on ear phones will improve quality of pictures.
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