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Studio lighting-Speed Lights/ Srobe Lights
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Jan 1, 2018 18:02:25   #
BHamp00 Loc: Las Vegas
 
CWW wrote:
Greetings and Happy New Year! I have a strong interest in learning portrait/event photography. My question is: which lighting to purchase to get started? I understand the concept of rf controlled speed lights. What is the purpose of a strobe light? Are speed lights and strobes used simultaneously from the same rf transmitter? What equipment do you folks use to get the effect you are looking for? My camera is a Sony A77 11 with a 24-70 G Zeiss lens. Any direction is truly apprecited.


Speed lights and strobes can be used simultaneously from the same RF transmitter if you choose a product line that supports this operation. Strobes are generally more powerful than Speed Lights and adapt better to Light Modifiers which are so important to portrait photography.

You can burn up a lot of $$$ buying this and that as you progressively learn more about lighting and the features of various strobes as I have done so you may want to listen closely. My advice, at this window in time, is to go with a couple of the Flashpoint XPLOR 600's (TTL or non TTL choice) and/or maybe EVOLV 200's along with their respective R2 transmitters. They have built in batteries and are stand alone wireless products (big thing). The XPLOR 600's have a Bowen mount for light modifiers and there are adapter clamps for the EVOV 200's that enable use of Bowen mount light modifiers in addition to their own mount and related products. Most light modifier manufactures provide products with Bowen mounts. If you have a desire for speed lights that differ from the EVOV 200's there are many to choose from that can be controlled by the same R2 transmitters. Gotox is the manufacturer of the Flashpoint products I've mentioned, however, the Flashpoint units are often bundled with more accessories. I'm not a pro but rather an advanced armature that reads way too much and always wants to keep up with technology. My favorites strobes are my Profoto B1 and B2 units but they are very expensive along with their Profoto light modifiers and accessories. I truly believe the best bang for the $$$ are the Flashpoint products I've mentioned.

I'm sure others will have different opinions and will be as emotionally charged as me, however, spend some time watching You Tube videos.

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Jan 1, 2018 18:34:53   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
burkphoto wrote:
Speedlights are typically on-camera flash units. Strobes are typically studio flash systems. Studio flash comes in two main form factors: Monolights, where each head is power supply, triggering system, and flash head, or Medusas, which connect a central power pack to several "dumb" flash heads, via thick, snake-like cables. The former may be more versatile, but the latter are generally heavier duty. Both systems have their merits.

You can learn a LOT about flash from various manufacturers and marketers of them. B&H and Adorama have lots of educational materials on their web sites, too.

I would check out resources at:

https://westcottu.com
http://www.dynalite.com/in-the-news/photography-studio-equipment-for-beginners-presented-by-the-slanted-lens/
https://www.paulcbuff.com/Studio-Flash-Explained.html
http://www.smithvictor.com/reference/lightingguide.asp?s1=Lighting+Guide
http://normanlights.com/applications.asp
http://www.speedotron.com/resource/links
http://www.qtm.com/index.php/learn/lessons-tutorials
http://www.radiopopper.com
http://www.photoflex.com/lessons/

That should keep you busy and get you started!
Speedlights are typically on-camera flash units. S... (show quote)


Bill,

As I recall, in the 60's when electronic flash came on the scene, they were miscalled strobe lights. In fact a strobe light is an electronic flash that can continuously flash multiple times per second. In industry, a strobe light can have its flash interval adjusted so that it can appear to freeze the motion of moving parts so they can be examined while in motion. For example, by matching the flash rate to the one RPM rate of an airplane propeller, the propeller will appear to stop even though it is turning at high speed. They can also be calibrated so that you can measure the RPM rate of a motor. Strobe lights were also adapted for stage effects (very popular with hippy entertainment in the 60's) and had some photographic applications such as multiple exposure effects.

I believe that the first units for general photography were called electronic flash and the first application was to replace expensive and bulky expendable flash bulbs. I think that the name confusion started when Graphic came out with their Strobflash units which dominated the professional market for a while. I still have my Strobflash IV in the garage. It was a good unit, but the batteries were very expensive (about $200 a pair today) and they lasted only three months under the best conditions.

Happy New Year

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Jan 1, 2018 18:45:30   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
burkphoto wrote:
Speed lights and strobe lights, in the context of photography, are essentially the same things: electronic flash. So long as they and the RF system have the same trigger voltage ratings, they will work.

But that’s only part of the story! The other things are color temperature, reflector type and size, light modifier type and size, the inverse-square law...


Bill,

As I recall, in the 60's when electronic flash came on the scene, they were miscalled strobe lights. In fact a strobe light is an electronic flash that can continuously flash multiple times per second. In industry, a strobe light can have its flash interval adjusted so that it can appear to freeze the motion of moving parts so they can be examined while in motion. For example, by matching the flash rate to the one RPM rate of an airplane propeller, the propeller will appear to stop even though it is turning at high speed. They can also be calibrated so that you can measure the RPM rate of a motor. Strobe lights were also adapted for stage effects (very popular with hippy entertainment in the 60's) and had some photographic applications such as multiple exposure effects.

I believe that the first units for general photography were called electronic flash and the first application was to replace expensive and bulky expendable flash bulbs. I think that the name confusion started when Graphic came out with their first electronic flash units and marketed them under the name Strobflash. The Strobflash units required a heavy battery box that was slung around one's shoulder and connected to the flash head that was usually mounted on the top of a camera's flashbulb battery grip. They dominated the professional market for a quite a while until professional units with built in batteries came on the market. I still have my Strobflash IV in the garage. It was a good unit, but the batteries were very expensive (about $200 a pair today) and they lasted only three months under the best conditions.

Happy New Year

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Jan 1, 2018 18:53:21   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
jcboy3 wrote:
Proving that noise is better than motion blur.


Well, not so fast.
I've purposely created motion by dragging my shutter but using speedlights to stop some motion, not continuous light.
Sometimes I want motion but can't recall that I've ever wanted noise.
I do sometimes use film to creat grain, but not noise!
SS

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Jan 1, 2018 18:53:33   #
Haydon
 
CO wrote:
The only negative about continuous lighting is that they won't help to freeze motion and their output is not a high as strobes. I attended a model photo shoot recently where only continuous lighting was used. For some of the shots, I had to use shutter speeds as low as 1/25 second, f/5.6, ISO1250. I really didn't want to go higher than ISO1250 because there would be more digital noise.

The lighting here was a continuous LED ring flash. I used ISO1250, f/5.6, 1/30 second. Lots of motion blur.
The only negative about continuous lighting is tha... (show quote)


I'm with you on that. I've used both systems and monolights/strobes will freeze action because the short duration of the lights essentially becomes the shutter speed. Nothing beats low ISO for dynamic range and clean images. Sure you can shoot at high ISO but it comes with sacrifices.

Continuous lights helps in newborn shootings which tend to be unobtrusive and help keep the babies warm. Continuous allows "seeing the light" where strobes without modelling lights take some positioning.

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Jan 1, 2018 19:15:28   #
CWW Loc: North Jersey
 
MichaelH wrote:
Did you swap the order of your recommendation in your first sentence? You seem to be recommending strobes yet compare them to toy cameras if I read the rest of your post correctly.


Thank you!, your reply is most appreciated.

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Jan 1, 2018 19:18:16   #
CWW Loc: North Jersey
 
GoofyNewfie wrote:
I use both strobes or speedlights depending on the job.
For work in the studio, I have several Bowens A/C powered monolights.
As SS said, they are great for adding modifiers.
There is more power available with almost instantaneous recycling and you have a modeling light. Also good for shooting in a location situation where you stay relatively static, like a lot of group shots.

For location "gun and run" or smaller jobs, I use speedlights with radio triggers.
I hardly ever have an assistant and after 3 hernia surgeries (thank you Speedotron), anything to lighten my load is a plus. There are speedlight adapters that allow me to use almost all my Bowens modifiers (not really enough power for the biggest softboxes). I haven't missed the lack of a modeling light.

Lately, I've been exploring Godox lighting equipment. (also sold by Adorama under the FlashPoint label) The ones I use have built-in receivers and they offer battery and/or AC powered monolights. One recent purchase is the Evolv-AD 200, a speedlight-sized 200ws unit with interchangeable heads, one a bare-bulb that works great in softboxes and reflectors. Gives you 500 full power flashes in one battery. There is an adapter that will hold 2 of the blocks giving you 400w/s and it adds 2 LED modeling lights, though "focusing" would be a better word.
I use both strobes or speedlights depending on the... (show quote)

Thanks for your reply.

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Jan 1, 2018 19:19:52   #
CWW Loc: North Jersey
 
GoofyNewfie wrote:
For studio, all I use is AC.
For location work, at least the stuff I shoot, it's nice to have a battery option, especially when shooting outside.

Others will have different requirements and recommendations.
It would be boring if we didn't differ in our opinions!

Godox is a pretty new brand, but a very extensive line.
They have a new "TCM" equipped transmitter where you shoot in TTL for your first shot, then using the TCM (TTL Convert Manual) button, the power levels used are converted to manual levels for tweaking and more consistent output. I rarely use TTL for location shoots with multiple lights, but reviews are good for this feature.
Gets you really close on the first try.
I don't have that $70 transmitter yet, but hope to soon.

I've heard to buy from Adorama (Flashpoint) or B&H for the Godox brand, rather than ebay or Amazon. Those two should back you up if anything goes wrong.
Check youTube for reviews.
FaceBook has a Godox AD 200 dedicated page "myAD200", which you'll have to join to view.
I also recommend the FB group: Learn to Light.

Photography is about light and learning to control it is an on-going thing.
Joe McNally and Neil van Niekerk have sites you should explore along with the previously recommended Strobist website.
Good luck!
For studio, all I use is AC. br For location work,... (show quote)

Thank you! Much appreciated!

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Jan 1, 2018 19:21:19   #
CWW Loc: North Jersey
 
Mortsid wrote:
Before you buy lights (Mono or Speedlites) first read some books (plural)on lighting. Only then will know what will suit your use. Speedlites are mobile, Mono's aren't


Thank You!

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Jan 1, 2018 19:23:17   #
CWW Loc: North Jersey
 
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
You’re getting a lot of good information from the people here. But I think you will get better advice if you can give a idea about how much you want to spend to start and later on. Also what you want to shoot...in studio or remote. There are lots of answers and price points.Robert Harrington and Mark Wallace YouTube videos can give you an idea of what can be done too...


Thank you! Much appreciated

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Jan 1, 2018 19:25:03   #
CWW Loc: North Jersey
 
cjc2 wrote:
If I have the time, I prefer Studio Strobes, if not, Speedlights work well indeed. In the "OLD" days, it wasn't unusual to set strobes up in a gym that you worked in regularly. Today, with the higher ISOs, that's not done near as much. I have begun using Nikon's newest Wireless system, with good results, when added light is absolutely necessary. Happy New Year.


Thanks, appreciated

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Jan 1, 2018 19:34:53   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
bpulv wrote:
Bill,

As I recall, in the 60's when electronic flash came on the scene, they were miscalled strobe lights. In fact a strobe light is an electronic flash that can continuously flash multiple times per second. In industry, a strobe light can have its flash interval adjusted so that it can appear to freeze the motion of moving parts so they can be examined while in motion. For example, by matching the flash rate to the one RPM rate of an airplane propeller, the propeller will appear to stop even though it is turning at high speed. They can also be calibrated so that you can measure the RPM rate of a motor. Strobe lights were also adapted for stage effects (very popular with hippy entertainment in the 60's) and had some photographic applications such as multiple exposure effects.

I believe that the first units for general photography were called electronic flash and the first application was to replace expensive and bulky expendable flash bulbs. I think that the name confusion started when Graphic came out with their Strobflash units which dominated the professional market for a while. I still have my Strobflash IV in the garage. It was a good unit, but the batteries were very expensive (about $200 a pair today) and they lasted only three months under the best conditions.

Happy New Year
Bill, br br As I recall, in the 60's when electro... (show quote)


Hey, I agree with you about the original meaning being a repeating electronic flash. I love Harold Edgerton’s work. But as with so many terms, “strobe” became a common slang term for studio flash, especially the fast recyclers.

I just call them all “flash.” I once had three of those “hippie entertainment repeating strobes” (and chaser lights and a fog machine) that I used in multi-image shows at corporate sales meetings. They would never work for photography unless it was macro... too weak!

I have a 1970 Honeywell 65D with 510-volt battery pack sitting in my closet. It was from the same era as the Strobflash IV. It’s really hard to find the #497 flash battery now! (Not that I would ever buy another one...)

There was also a 65C model that had four on-board sub-C size NiCd batteries in it, and then a ton of 600, 700, 800, and 900 models in the same potato masher form factor. Those NiCds really were quite anemic! They also tended to work for about 20 charges and then develop a terrible memory effect. I preferred the units with a big battery.

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Jan 1, 2018 21:07:22   #
pendennis
 
burkphoto wrote:
Hey, I agree with you about the original meaning being a repeating electronic flash. I love Harold Edgerton’s work. But as with so many terms, “strobe” became a common slang term for studio flash, especially the fast recyclers.

I just call them all “flash.” I once had three of those “hippie entertainment repeating strobes” (and chaser lights and a fog machine) that I used in multi-image shows at corporate sales meetings. They would never work for photography unless it was macro... too weak!

I have a 1970 Honeywell 65D with 510-volt battery pack sitting in my closet. It was from the same era as the Strobflash IV. It’s really hard to find the #497 flash battery now! (Not that I would ever buy another one...)

There was also a 65C model that had four on-board sub-C size NiCd batteries in it, and then a ton of 600, 700, 800, and 900 models in the same potato masher form factor. Those NiCds really were quite anemic! They also tended to work for about 20 charges and then develop a terrible memory effect. I preferred the units with a big battery.
Hey, I agree with you about the original meaning b... (show quote)


While I didn't own a 65D with the 510v battery, I did own the 700, 710, 770, 800, 810, and 880 models. And amen to the anemic batteries! I kept a number of sub-C cells in spare trays just for long shoots. My dad was an electrician by early trade, and he built me a small device which would drain the batteries down to zero, and that helped a bit with the memory issue. Later on, I bought a couple of Quantum Turbo batteries to use for power along with a Q-Flash and a great Armatar 200. Eventually, one of my friends bought all my Strobonars and their parts. He's a collector.

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Jan 1, 2018 23:06:41   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
pendennis wrote:
While I didn't own a 65D with the 510v battery, I did own the 700, 710, 770, 800, 810, and 880 models. And amen to the anemic batteries! I kept a number of sub-C cells in spare trays just for long shoots. My dad was an electrician by early trade, and he built me a small device which would drain the batteries down to zero, and that helped a bit with the memory issue. Later on, I bought a couple of Quantum Turbo batteries to use for power along with a Q-Flash and a great Armatar 200. Eventually, one of my friends bought all my Strobonars and their parts. He's a collector.
While I didn't own a 65D with the 510v battery, I ... (show quote)




I had a 700 and an 880 at various times.

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