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What's the best way to tone down hot spots, when shooting?
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Dec 5, 2017 07:56:56   #
ColonelButler Loc: Niagara-on-the-Lake ON Canada
 
I would remove the distracting date stamp.

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Dec 5, 2017 11:55:43   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
I'll address the taking side of this issue. I'd suggest spot metering on the brightest spot. Then, increase exposure about 3 stops.

A polarizing filter will definitely help here. Especially when coupled with the above approach.

Now, be aware this is a SWAG, since I don't know your particular camera. The better bet is to test your camera's dynamic range and determine how much additional exposure you can use. It might be more than 3 stops or could be less. It's very individual camera specific.
--Bob
Chris T wrote:
Failing this, what's the best way to minimize them, in Post Processing?

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Dec 5, 2017 12:06:51   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
Chris T wrote:
Failing this, what's the best way to minimize them, in Post Processing?


First off is getting the exposure correct and then ensuring that your shutter speed is fast enough that when you are hand-holding there is no camera shake. Expose on the brightest part of the subject, always the white part if there is white anywhere. If any white part is blown out, no texture in that portion of the image, then you cannot retrieve texture or color in that part of the white image with any post processing tool. If shooting in bright light look for images that are in the shade or protected in some way from the brightest light. On cars, there will always be a few spots that are overly bright; Photoshop can help with the very small spots. In post you may be able to bring down the exposure a stop or two to bring back the color, any program can do this.

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Dec 5, 2017 12:17:29   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
Gene51 wrote:
The bodies are a little different - particularly the wheel wheel radiusing. One may be a Mk II and the other a Mk III, possibly different years. The roll bars are different as well.

The old-school way of doing bodywork involved a torch and a lead bar. Bondo is easier to use but will shrink and crack over time. Even an expert cannot tell which technique was used on a body if the repair is to concourse standards and the finish has been clay bar'd and pristine. The price at auction was due to the amount of original components, and the detailing.
The bodies are a little different - particularly t... (show quote)


So, which one is older, Gene ... "yours" or mine?

Now, you've hit me with another term with which I'm not familiar ... what are "concourse standards" ?

And, from before, and now, again ... what does it mean to "clay bar" the body?

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Dec 5, 2017 12:18:49   #
jcboy3
 
rmalarz wrote:
I'll address the taking side of this issue. I'd suggest spot metering on the brightest spot. Then, increase exposure about 3 stops.

A polarizing filter will definitely help here. Especially when coupled with the above approach.

Now, be aware this is a SWAG, since I don't know your particular camera. The better bet is to test your camera's dynamic range and determine how much additional exposure you can use. It might be more than 3 stops or could be less. It's very individual camera specific.
--Bob
I'll address the taking side of this issue. I'd su... (show quote)


In cases where exposure compensation amount is uncertain, bracket.

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Dec 5, 2017 12:20:43   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
ColonelButler wrote:
I would remove the distracting date stamp.


Why? ... That's how I know when I shot these, at a glance ....

All the more important, in this case ... since it's a Classic Auto ....

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Dec 5, 2017 12:24:42   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
Chris T wrote:
Why? ... That's how I know when I shot these, at a glance ....

All the more important, in this case ... since it's a Classic Auto ....


That’s what EXIF data is for.

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Dec 5, 2017 12:29:45   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
rmalarz wrote:
I'll address the taking side of this issue. I'd suggest spot metering on the brightest spot. Then, increase exposure about 3 stops.

A polarizing filter will definitely help here. Especially when coupled with the above approach.

Now, be aware this is a SWAG, since I don't know your particular camera. The better bet is to test your camera's dynamic range and determine how much additional exposure you can use. It might be more than 3 stops or could be less. It's very individual camera specific.
--Bob
I'll address the taking side of this issue. I'd su... (show quote)


These were shot with the Nikon D5300, Bob ... I think it's the very one pictured in the Avatar ... oh, this would've been with a Sigma 18-200 ....

Most of these were shot at 30mm ...

I understand Polarizing filters don't do much for metal reflections, Bob ... is that right or wrong?

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Dec 5, 2017 12:30:50   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
Fortunately, my adjustments are far from uncertain.

Additionally, I'm not compensating for anything when I measure a scene. I'm determining the exposure based on several aspects, most notably, my camera's capabilities. Those capabilities were determined through extensive testing when I purchased the camera and prior to taking it anywhere to shoot with it.
--Bob
jcboy3 wrote:
In cases where exposure compensation amount is uncertain, bracket.

Reply
Dec 5, 2017 12:31:52   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
That’s what EXIF data is for.


Right, Allen ... but you have to hunt for it ...

Which is why I stipulated "at a glance" ...

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Dec 5, 2017 12:36:28   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
jcboy3 wrote:
In cases where exposure compensation amount is uncertain, bracket.


John ... I stumbled over this, whilst walking from the muffler place where I was having my oil changed - to Staples, next door to this ...

I didn't have a lotta time to fiddle ... I just snapped what I could, before the owner returned ....

In fact, as I was winding up - he appeared, and demanded to know what I was doing ...

So, I just skedaddled outta there, as fast as I could ...

At the beginning, I took a little extra time ... but, towards the end ... I kinda rushed them ...

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Dec 5, 2017 12:37:27   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
Chris, polarizers will cut reflection off metal. One can get varying degrees of reduction though. There are a number of factors that affect the reduction.
--Bob
Chris T wrote:
These were shot with the Nikon D5300, Bob ... I think it's the very one pictured in the Avatar ... oh, this would've been with a Sigma 18-200 ....

Most of these were shot at 30mm ...

I understand Polarizing filters don't do much for metal reflections, Bob ... is that right or wrong?

Reply
Dec 5, 2017 12:46:09   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
via the lens wrote:
First off is getting the exposure correct and then ensuring that your shutter speed is fast enough that when you are hand-holding there is no camera shake. Expose on the brightest part of the subject, always the white part if there is white anywhere. If any white part is blown out, no texture in that portion of the image, then you cannot retrieve texture or color in that part of the white image with any post processing tool. If shooting in bright light look for images that are in the shade or protected in some way from the brightest light. On cars, there will always be a few spots that are overly bright; Photoshop can help with the very small spots. In post you may be able to bring down the exposure a stop or two to bring back the color, any program can do this.
First off is getting the exposure correct and then... (show quote)


Thanks, Via ... all helpful tips ....

There was no shade that day ... this was out - in the middle of a parking lot ...

Even my dog - went towards that brick wall - I guess he thought there'd be shade, there, instead - it was even hotter ....

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Dec 5, 2017 12:51:50   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
Chris, it's rather cloudy out here today. I'll see what I can do about taking a similar photograph when it's sunny and post it with ref. to this topic. I'll do one with and one without a polarizer. Should be fun.
--Bob

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Dec 5, 2017 13:11:31   #
Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England
 
Jeffcs wrote:
Shoot for the whites post process for the blacks shoot in raw and learn Photoshop


Thanks, Jeff ... will do ... as soon as I can get ahold of a copy (or, something similar) ....

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