But a simple workaround exists. Fire each speedlight by itself to determine how it affects the subject. Adjust the position and power of each speedlight as needed for the intended result.
In a studio setting, you can do this speedlight adjustment using a mannequin head before the shoot of a live subject. But I found it better to do the adjustment with the subject.
bkyser wrote:
It depends on you. Speedlights don't have modeling lights, so when you are beginning and can't "picture" the light before hand, those modeling lights are invaluable.
Also, if you plan on working outdoors, you either need to use High Speed Sync with your speedlights, which greatly reduces power output, or you will need studio lights to overpower the sun. (or you will end up with either under exposed subjects, or over exposed sky)
I'm a user of, and HUGE fan of Paul C. Buff equipment. Like someone above said, not inexpensive, but very flexible in it's uses. You can't use modeling lights with a battery pack on Buff lights, but they are built like tanks, and are fantastic for portable set ups. I haven't had a studio in years, everyone wants photos in their home, or outdoors. The mottled backdrop, or worse, 80's bookshelf painted backdrop, etc. are all getting pretty dated.
I do have, and use speedlights, but if I HAD to pick one or the other for versatility, I'd stay with studio lights and power packs. (in my case Paul C. Buff systems, but others would work too, just make sure you don't get too low of power if you get entry level. You may save a few pennies, but studio strobes actually overpower the sun, very few do high speed sync.
By the way, I'm the guy that does before and after photos for a few local orthodontists in the area, so I do kind of know what you are going for.
We do the before in the office, but the after is done in a nearby park, and the parents get a nice 8x10 of the after.
It depends on you. Speedlights don't have modeli... (
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