4OX

I'm a dentist and like and use photography in my practice. I am setting up an extra room to do before and after portraits. I usually start off cheap, have regrets, then invest in higher quality...I HATE WHEN I DO THAT! I've been taking a 3 part class in studio lighting. I was thinking the biggest bang for the buck would be a couple of speedlights, stands, softbox, umbrella etc That would also be portable. Profoto seems to be the gold standard for strobes. Phottix is a close second, and then the rest. I am planning to give my hygienist a free engagement session/photo as a gift, and another patient asked me to take a graduation pic if I wanted the practice...I do. Ideas and suggestions? Thanks

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Are you familiar already with the use of studio or off camera flash? What about posing the model?
Only you can answer those questions.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

Speedlights are probably not the way to go.

Look at Paul C. Buff's Einstein E640 strobes. At least two, but four of them is much better. These will maintain the same color temperature at different power settings.

Get Buff's Cybersync controller and triggers. And when you buy stands make sure to get air cushioned models.

You might also consider a Mini Vagabond battery pack for each light, or perhaps per pair, to reduce the number of cords to trip on.

It's not cheap, but nothing is more functional either. The constant color temp is extremely nice and not available with even higher priced equipment.

4OX

Yes, I'm familiar. Was looking at Phottix 2 light kit. Will compare with Einstein. Thanks.

anotherview Loc: California

Rule of Thumb: Why buy a Cadillac when you only need a Ford?

You can start with lower-cost gear, and it may prove all you need. A simple 3-foot reversible umbrella or two may suffice for your studio shoots. A reversible umbrella has a removable black backing so the umbrella can become a shoot-through umbrella. You could tape a white bed sheet to a wall for a clean background. For a while, I used a red blanket clamped to the crossbar of a backdrop stand.

Oh, yes, you will very likely need lighting stands on which to mount your speedlights and umbrellas. You will definitely need a sandbag or two for steading your lighting stands, even inside your studio.

The list of basic studio gear goes on.

You could do bounced flash lighting under the right conditions. Then you'd need one speedlight.

When I had a small home studio for portraits, I used three speedlights: One for the key light, one for the fill light,
and one for a hair light. I even bought a dummy head to test and refine the lighting, by firing one speedlight at a time. I had a backdrop setup as well, and diffuser panels. You can buy a kit with several modifiers for your speedlights.

A studio presents a controlled environment for doing photography. Used well, a studio can produce very flattering photographs of your subjects. I want to set up another studio, in my cabin, to return to studio photography.

I suggest you consult these two sources for expert advice:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

https://neilvn.com/

In short, though, you lighting needs will vary by the subject and by the conditions of the shoot.

As to requests to take pictures at events, I speak from experience. Once I gained some competence, my family and friends asked me to take pictures at events like weddings. Then of course they wanted copies of my photographs. Nobody mentioned paying me (and I never asked for any pay). I found that I spent a lot of time developing (processing) the photographs to my standard.

So I came up with a reply to these requests: Hire a professional event photographer, and I will help pay for his or her fee. I will take pictures, too, and provide copies, at no charge. I made this approach appealing by noting that event photographs have the expertise to get the traditional shots of the event. I offered to do candids and other shots. This suggestion worked.

One last thing: Advertisers will lead you to believe that you must have this or that piece of gear in order to achieve the best results in your photography. Avoid this hooey.

Good photographs have more to do with the skill and experience of the photographer than to do with photographic gear. Your careful use of the gear from experience and study make the difference.

Buy a piece of gear when you can identify a real need for it in your photographic work.

Good luck.

bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana

It depends on you. Speedlights don't have modeling lights, so when you are beginning and can't "picture" the light before hand, those modeling lights are invaluable.

Also, if you plan on working outdoors, you either need to use High Speed Sync with your speedlights, which greatly reduces power output, or you will need studio lights to overpower the sun. (or you will end up with either under exposed subjects, or over exposed sky)

I'm a user of, and HUGE fan of Paul C. Buff equipment. Like someone above said, not inexpensive, but very flexible in it's uses. You can't use modeling lights with a battery pack on Buff lights, but they are built like tanks, and are fantastic for portable set ups. I haven't had a studio in years, everyone wants photos in their home, or outdoors. The mottled backdrop, or worse, 80's bookshelf painted backdrop, etc. are all getting pretty dated.

I do have, and use speedlights, but if I HAD to pick one or the other for versatility, I'd stay with studio lights and power packs. (in my case Paul C. Buff systems, but others would work too, just make sure you don't get too low of power if you get entry level. You may save a few pennies, but studio strobes actually overpower the sun, very few do high speed sync.

By the way, I'm the guy that does before and after photos for a few local orthodontists in the area, so I do kind of know what you are going for.

We do the before in the office, but the after is done in a nearby park, and the parents get a nice 8x10 of the after.

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Look at Jay P Morgan's The Slanted Lens You Tube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHfBd_Y_Vmg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aS9m6UD6_GU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p13MFjuXVBY

Just three to start.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

40X, take Anotherview's advice - it is golden and obviously comes from experience, and not from reading reviews and advertising. You don't need a large amount of gear, and speedlights are a very easy and less costly way to get very good results. In addition to the two websites he suggests you look at, take a look at these:

http://www.duenkel.com/ - for examples of really good portrait lighting, and mixing ambient with speedlight - he makes use of large bounce surfaces, like insulation bead-board and other great, not so expensive but highly effective ways to modify light.

https://digital-photography-school.com/6-portrait-lighting-patterns-every-photographer-should-know/ - to understand how to light a head and shoulder portrait in the classical manner

http://www.sekonic.com/united-states/whatisyourspecialty/photographer/articles/the-five-basic-portrait-lighting-setups.aspx - for some easy and effective lighting with 3 lights

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/portrait-lighting.htm - for overall guidance on lighting concepts, including the all-important apparent size of a light - Fuzzy Duenkel's work clearly embodies these concepts.

In the way of gear, what you "need" is probably the following:

2 or 3 speedlights of equal power - inexpensive manual lights are fine as long as purchase a flash meter
A decent flash meter to be able to set your lighting ratios
some flash modifiers - I use these - https://petapixel.com/2015/09/06/how-to-make-cheap-diy-reflectors-from-silver-bead-foam-boards/ and these - [url]https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&O=&Q=&ap=y&c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&gclid=CjwKCAjw2s_MBRA5EiwAmWIacwafsf686Cnv9FgAwfYdUHfjDR9yKWqwynSKsDHu3R1LFoyKEm5qXBoCQwsQAvD_BwE&is=REG&m=Y&sku=253064[/irl]

Some lighting stands, clamps, to hold the collapsible reflector(s), swivel brackets to mount the strobes to the lighting stands. etc.

You don't need to spend several thousand dollars on expensive monolights etc.

I still have a full blown Speedotron studio strobe lighting system consisting of 4 2400w power packs, and 2 4800w power packs, cabling, 7 flash heads, reflectors, barn doors, diffusers, large and extra large softboxes, umbrellas, etc etc etc. which I hardly ever use anymore because it is a pain to set up and I am getting all I need from portable manual speedights anyway. Unless you have a garage-size space to set up your studio in, I think you will get the best solution with smaller, easier to set up gear.

CO

I have Paul C. Buff equipment as other UHH members here have also. I got their new DigiBee DB800 strobe. I've found that it has more than enough power for any situation I've encountered. It's virtually the same as the Paul C. Buff AlienBees but a little more compact and they've added digital control. Their CyberSync CSXCV transceiver and CyberSync Commander can be used with it. Flashpower can be adjusted in 1/10 stop incremements. I had PocketWizard radios already, so I'm using those right now.

If you get a Paul C Buff strobe and you want to use umbrellas, be sure to get their model 7UR umbrella reflector. It has a 180 degree spread of light to better fill the umbrella with light.

I purchased their 22" white beauty dish for it. It's great when you want to accentuate feature more. It comes with a diffuser sock that stretches over it for more diffused light. I did this shot last weekend with the beauty dish on the strobe.

22" white beauty dish on strobe

(Download)

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

WOW! Great lighting on this professional-looking image, CO

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

--Bob

4OX

Sound, caring advice--thank you

4OX

Awesome advice! I'm interested in how much you charge to take those pics...Can you post a couple?

4OX

Thanks for taking the time...great info

4OX

Good stuff--thanks man! and awesome portrait!