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Canon 7DII Manual Mude
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Aug 1, 2017 16:04:42   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
aerides wrote:
Let me try this again. In the old 7D and on the 5DIII, the exposure compensation scale is located at the bottom of the viewfinder. An semi-automatic modes (aperture and shutter preferred modes), it has a pointer that indicates how much, if any, exposure compensation you have dialed in. In Manual Mode, the pointer becomes active and acts as a light meter, indicating whether the camera thinks your Manual Settings will yield a balanced exposure. I didn't mean to imply that I thought the camera did not have a light meter at all, but according to this person's review possibly that the exposure compensation scale did not convert to an active light meter in Manual Mode. PaulR01 posted: With the 7Dii you can not manually change the exposure control in manual mode. Exposure is automatically adjusted for you. This makes no sense to me. Nothing is automatically adjusted for you in Manual Mode. Bebulamar suggested I read the manual. If I had the camera I'd read the manual. I could download the manual but I was out and about and just posting a quick question. Thanks Sharpshooter. Yes, it seemed weird to me too. I have no idea what he was talking about. I'll just go to the store and try it. Yeah, the exposure scale light meter is a sophisticated illuminated version of the old bouncy needles.
Let me try this again. In the old 7D and on the 5... (show quote)


This subject has confused a lot of people whose prior experience was with cameras which used a single scale for both EC and the light meter. Professional level and prosumer Canon bodies use a different approach.

On the 7D Mark II, the light meter is on the right side of the viewfinder and is active all the times. On the bottom of the viewfinder is the Exposure Compensation scale. The EC scale is active in Av mode, Tv mode, and Bulb mode. EC adjustments are available for those modes when using Auto ISO or if the ISO value is explicitly set.

Things are a bit different in Manual mode. In Manual mode if you explicitly select an ISO value, Exposure Compensation is not available, as one would expect, and as a result, the EC scale on the bottom of the viewfinder disappears. However, the light meter on the right hand side of the viewfinder is still visible and active. Additionally, If you are using Manual mode and select Auto ISO, the EC scale reappears at the bottom of the viewfinder and you can apply EC adjustments which tweak the ISO value.

EC in Manual mode with Auto ISO is only available on some of the recent higher end Canon bodies.

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Aug 1, 2017 16:54:41   #
JayB Loc: Northeast US
 
Cool. Thanks. Yes, I downloaded the manual last night. I didn't know that about EC working in manual mode when auto ISO is selected. I didn't think the camera's entire ability to quantify light had been stripped away. But I liked that the EC scale converted into a light meter in manual mode and I figured that's what the person was referring to and wanted to check it out with "y'all". High end or not, this dual purposing struck me as an elegant approach... arguably more so than stuffing another scale into the viewfinder. But all is well, and thanks for the instructive responses. [Aside: this all arose from me trying to decide on the spur of the moment to go around the corner and grab the 7DII while I was waiting for a lens repair -- I quickly went to the B&H website on my phone to see if any of the negative comments seemed concerning. I didn't buy the camera that day, but I was recently impressed with how quiet and quick the shutter was, as heard from other owners of the camera on a recent birding hike.]

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Aug 1, 2017 19:09:30   #
RRS Loc: Not sure
 
aerides wrote:
Thanks, SS. I get that. EC doesn't function in manual because of course you would make changes directly to your SS or aperture. The EC scale still shows in bottom of the viewfinder though, and the pointer becomes an active light meter in Manual Mode, moving along the scale depending on the amount of light the camera detects that would hit your sensor, relative to your settings. This all sounds more complicated than it actually is. Ai!


Press the "q" button and then move the high light to the EM, now half press the shutter and adjust the EC to minus or plus using the quick control dial.

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Aug 1, 2017 20:17:08   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
RRS wrote:
Press the "q" button and then move the high light to the EM, now half press the shutter and adjust the EC to minus or plus using the quick control dial.

No one really familiar with the 7D Mark II's capabilities would modify EC in such a combursome fashion. But regardless, that's not what the OP was asking about.

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Aug 1, 2017 22:21:20   #
JayB Loc: Northeast US
 
This is the post I read on B&H
No light meter???
Canon has taken away the light meter on both the top display and in the viewfinder. I have the choice of reverting to the sunny 16 rule or using an external light meter. I've sent email to Canon, if they can't resolve this I'm returning this otherwise awesome camera. On the positive side... Autofocus is incredibly fast and accurate. Color quality is (subjectively) way beyond what the original 7d provided. 10 frames per second! For now I'm back to using my beloved old 7d. FWIW, these comments are about firmware version 1.1.2.

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Aug 1, 2017 22:38:05   #
chaman
 
aerides wrote:
This is the post I read on B&H
No light meter???
Canon has taken away the light meter on both the top display and in the viewfinder. I have the choice of reverting to the sunny 16 rule or using an external light meter. I've sent email to Canon, if they can't resolve this I'm returning this otherwise awesome camera. On the positive side... Autofocus is incredibly fast and accurate. Color quality is (subjectively) way beyond what the original 7d provided. 10 frames per second! For now I'm back to using my beloved old 7d. FWIW, these comments are about firmware version 1.1.2.
This is the post I read on B&H br No light met... (show quote)


Who ever post that should never touch a camera again. I bet the Canon engineers fell on the floor laughing after receiving such stupid email.

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Aug 1, 2017 22:44:31   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
chaman wrote:
Who ever post that should never touch a camera again. I bet the Canon engineers fell on the floor laughing after receiving such stupid email.


Likely a member of a Conservative party...., fake news for SURE!!!
SS

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Aug 1, 2017 23:33:31   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
aerides wrote:
This is the post I read on B&H
No light meter???
Canon has taken away the light meter on both the top display and in the viewfinder. I have the choice of reverting to the sunny 16 rule or using an external light meter. I've sent email to Canon, if they can't resolve this I'm returning this otherwise awesome camera. On the positive side... Autofocus is incredibly fast and accurate. Color quality is (subjectively) way beyond what the original 7d provided. 10 frames per second! For now I'm back to using my beloved old 7d. FWIW, these comments are about firmware version 1.1.2.
This is the post I read on B&H br No light met... (show quote)

The person who posted that was unaware of how his camera worked and obviously was unwilling to spend any time or effort to understand why he was having an issue. It seems likely he was shooting in manual mode with an explicit ISO value selected and completely missed the light meter on the right side of the viewfinder.

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Aug 1, 2017 23:47:05   #
RRS Loc: Not sure
 
mwsilvers wrote:
No one really familiar with the 7D Mark II's capabilities would modify EC in such a combursome fashion. But regardless, that's not what the OP was asking about.


I've shot a 7D, 7DMKII and a 1DXMKII and I know what works for me. I shoot BIF and wildlife. There are so many ways to modify YOUR own camera and what works for each individual. Sorry, go ahead and answer the Op's question. The way you answered is not correct. With the 7DMKII in manual with auto ISO if you try and tweak the EC by changing the ISO what happens to the shutter speed or aperture? It changes in relation to the ISO and in fact that doesn't give you any EC at all. Look at the meter at the bottom and no matter how you change the settings in manual with auto ISO the needle stays in the middle. Now if you want to affect EC try pressing the "Q" button and look at the screen on the back of the camera and set the EC to + or - by moving the quick control dial and look what the needle does, presto you have EC either up or down. You can see that the needle isn't now in the center if you look through the viewfinder at the bottom. If there is a different or better way could you please let me know. Thank you.

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Aug 2, 2017 01:37:25   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
RRS wrote:
I've shot a 7D, 7DMKII and a 1DXMKII and I know what works for me. I shoot BIF and wildlife. There are so many ways to modify YOUR own camera and what works for each individual. Sorry, go ahead and answer the Op's question. The way you answered is not correct. With the 7DMKII in manual with auto ISO if you try and tweak the EC by changing the ISO what happens to the shutter speed or aperture? It changes in relation to the ISO and in fact that doesn't give you any EC at all. Look at the meter at the bottom and no matter how you change the settings in manual with auto ISO the needle stays in the middle. Now if you want to affect EC try pressing the "Q" button and look at the screen on the back of the camera and set the EC to + or - by moving the quick control dial and look what the needle does, presto you have EC either up or down. You can see that the needle isn't now in the center if you look through the viewfinder at the bottom. If there is a different or better way could you please let me know. Thank you.
I've shot a 7D, 7DMKII and a 1DXMKII and I know wh... (show quote)


If you believe what your saying with regard to Manual mode and Auto ISO you do not know how the 7D Mark II works. When you use the EC function in Manual mode with Auto ISO the ONLY thing that changes is the ISO. The ONLY thing!!! Shutter speed and aperture remain the same. And when you apply EC in Manual mode with Auto ISO the needle DOES NOT stay in the middle as you suggest but moves left or right a third of a stop at a time. If you believe otherwise you need to go back and review this feature.

I've used my 7D2 for two and a half years, taken over 100,000 images and read the entire 548 page full manual and all the subsidiary manuals from cover to cover, and many sections multiple times. I know by heart every single feature and option and setting of this camera, and use most of them regularly. And yes, many features like modifying EC can be accomplished in multiple ways. The flexibility of this camera is one of it great strengths. However, anyone who would take their eye away from the viewfinder and go through three or more steps to modify EC, when it can be accomplished with a single button push and a turn of the main wheel without taking one's eye from the viewfinder, doesn't understand how to use this body efficiently to avoid missing shots. Since you indicate you are a BIF and wildlife photographer I can't imagine why you would take a chance on missing shots by making adjustments that way. Virtually all the critical adjustments I ever need to make do not require me taking my eye off the subject once the camera is configured with that goal in mind.

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Aug 2, 2017 11:46:23   #
RRS Loc: Not sure
 
mwsilvers wrote:
If you believe what your saying with regard to Manual mode and Auto ISO you do not know how the 7D Mark II works. When you use the EC function in Manual mode with Auto ISO the ONLY thing that changes is the ISO. The ONLY thing!!! Shutter speed and aperture remain the same. And when you apply EC in Manual mode with Auto ISO the needle DOES NOT stay in the middle as you suggest but moves left or right a third of a stop at a time. If you believe otherwise you need to go back and review this feature.

I've used my 7D2 for two and a half years, taken over 100,000 images and read the entire 548 page full manual and all the subsidiary manuals from cover to cover, and many sections multiple times. I know by heart every single feature and option and setting of this camera, and use most of them regularly. And yes, many features like modifying EC can be accomplished in multiple ways. The flexibility of this camera is one of it great strengths. However, anyone who would take their eye away from the viewfinder and go through three or more steps to modify EC, when it can be accomplished with a single button push and a turn of the main wheel without taking one's eye from the viewfinder, doesn't understand how to use this body efficiently to avoid missing shots. Since you indicate you are a BIF and wildlife photographer I can't imagine why you would take a chance on missing shots by making adjustments that way. Virtually all the critical adjustments I ever need to make do not require me taking my eye off the subject once the camera is configured with that goal in mind.
If you believe what your saying with regard to Man... (show quote)


OK but how would you know that you need to employ EC without looking at the picture you just took? Is too dark or too bright. Why would you just arbitrarily change on the fly. Using manual mode if the exposure is set up to control the shutter speed you need to freeze the wings and the aperture is set to control DOF and auto ISO is on the only thing that will change in regard to changing light is the ISO. If you change either of the two, shutter speed/aperture, the auto ISO will compensate and your exposure will be the same. Over the years of shooting Canon bodies I have found that I need to keep my EC set to +1/3 to +2/3 of a stop to get the exposure I like. I've said just how I make the change that I use could you be more explicit as to what single button you push to make this change and I think you are referring to the quick control dial as the wheel. I don't know everything buy you have me scratching my head and I don't have much hair left. Thanks

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Aug 2, 2017 12:32:39   #
BebuLamar
 
RRS wrote:
OK but how would you know that you need to employ EC without looking at the picture you just took? Is too dark or too bright. Why would you just arbitrarily change on the fly. Using manual mode if the exposure is set up to control the shutter speed you need to freeze the wings and the aperture is set to control DOF and auto ISO is on the only thing that will change in regard to changing light is the ISO. If you change either of the two, shutter speed/aperture, the auto ISO will compensate and your exposure will be the same. Over the years of shooting Canon bodies I have found that I need to keep my EC set to +1/3 to +2/3 of a stop to get the exposure I like. I've said just how I make the change that I use could you be more explicit as to what single button you push to make this change and I think you are referring to the quick control dial as the wheel. I don't know everything buy you have me scratching my head and I don't have much hair left. Thanks
OK but how would you know that you need to employ ... (show quote)


I want my camera to give good exposure without any compensation most of the times. Of course, there are scenes that make your meter not indicating the right exposure but you're supposed to know that. You need to learn how to meter your scenes. If you have to look at your picture you just took to set the compensation then how would one goes about it back in the film days? Do they rush back home, develop the unfinished roll for that 1 frame and the rush out to the scene hoping the light hasn't changed?

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Aug 2, 2017 12:36:29   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
RRS wrote:
OK but how would you know that you need to employ EC without looking at the picture you just took? Is too dark or too bright. Why would you just arbitrarily change on the fly. Using manual mode if the exposure is set up to control the shutter speed you need to freeze the wings and the aperture is set to control DOF and auto ISO is on the only thing that will change in regard to changing light is the ISO. If you change either of the two, shutter speed/aperture, the auto ISO will compensate and your exposure will be the same. Over the years of shooting Canon bodies I have found that I need to keep my EC set to +1/3 to +2/3 of a stop to get the exposure I like. I've said just how I make the change that I use could you be more explicit as to what single button you push to make this change and I think you are referring to the quick control dial as the wheel. I don't know everything buy you have me scratching my head and I don't have much hair left. Thanks
OK but how would you know that you need to employ ... (show quote)

On the 7D Mark II, when in Av or Tv Modes the Quick Control dial is used for Exposure Compensation. However, in Manual mode with Auto ISO you use the Main dial for that purpose along with another control. Some people use the SET button as that control, I use the lever on the joy stick which I find faster and more convenient. I pull the lever with my thumb while turning the main dial with index finger. Its one coordinated move and takes around a second. Of course, you have to configure the lever for that purpose.

"Using manual mode if the exposure is set up to control the shutter speed you need to freeze the wings and the aperture is set to control DOF and auto ISO is on the only thing that will change in regard to changing light is the ISO. If you change either of the two, shutter speed/aperture, the auto ISO will compensate and your exposure will be the same".

First, of course I set the shutter speed and aperture as needed to get the shot. and yes as you point out Auto ISO will change to try to create a "correct" exposure. But using EC tailors the ISO value and even allows me to select a specific ISO value for any given shot. If I add + 2/3 stop of EC the Auto ISO will take that 2/3 stop into consideration for every shot until I change the EC. And yes, of course I occasionally check results on the LCD screen looking at both the image and the histogram, but using the EC setting is also based on experience with different lighting conditions and familiarity with how the 7D2 exposes with different lenses and in in different settings. Of course, all this is based on shooting with the viewfinder. I also shoot a lot using Live View, especially on a tripod, which changes how I apply settings. Whatever works to get the shot that pleases you is the main thing. I just like to minimize the fiddling and speed up the process.

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Aug 2, 2017 13:34:28   #
RRS Loc: Not sure
 
BebuLamar wrote:
I want my camera to give good exposure without any compensation most of the times. Of course, there are scenes that make your meter not indicating the right exposure but you're supposed to know that. You need to learn how to meter your scenes. If you have to look at your picture you just took to set the compensation then how would one goes about it back in the film days? Do they rush back home, develop the unfinished roll for that 1 frame and the rush out to the scene hoping the light hasn't changed?
I want my camera to give good exposure without any... (show quote)


Why do I even bother! I've been shooting for over 60 years, As to film days yes I've been there and done that too. We didn't have AF or even a light meter in the camera when I started. I had several meters and know how to use them. I shot B&W film and the same ASA all the time and after a time I didn't even need to use a light meter because I could see the light and in my darkroom I could and did make any minor adjustments needed for my prints. I don't think you understand my remarks about setting EC on my Canon cameras to a + 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop it is because I need to compensate for what I see as a meter reading in my camera that is off. I shot weddings for over 25 years, have a degree in photography, have taught photography and yes I have even cut unprocessed film and developed it to see if I would need more or less time in the chemical developer that I was using and no I didn't go back out and shoot. I'm shooting 14 fps of a BIF in changing light conditions and have the meter set for + 1/3 of a stop with EC. With the aperture set for DOF and the shutter speed set to freeze the action I set the ISO to auto and it works. If your camera meter fools you and I'm sure you know that then why don't you try spot metering and see if that could help you.

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Aug 2, 2017 14:10:17   #
BebuLamar
 
RRS wrote:
Why do I even bother! I've been shooting for over 60 years, As to film days yes I've been there and done that too. We didn't have AF or even a light meter in the camera when I started. I had several meters and know how to use them. I shot B&W film and the same ASA all the time and after a time I didn't even need to use a light meter because I could see the light and in my darkroom I could and did make any minor adjustments needed for my prints. I don't think you understand my remarks about setting EC on my Canon cameras to a + 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop it is because I need to compensate for what I see as a meter reading in my camera that is off. I shot weddings for over 25 years, have a degree in photography, have taught photography and yes I have even cut unprocessed film and developed it to see if I would need more or less time in the chemical developer that I was using and no I didn't go back out and shoot. I'm shooting 14 fps of a BIF in changing light conditions and have the meter set for + 1/3 of a stop with EC. With the aperture set for DOF and the shutter speed set to freeze the action I set the ISO to auto and it works. If your camera meter fools you and I'm sure you know that then why don't you try spot metering and see if that could help you.
Why do I even bother! I've been shooting for over ... (show quote)


I said that I expect my camera meter to be correct and not needed any permanent compensation. I don't know which cameras you have but I think most newer cameras have the setting in custom functions to bias the meter generally in 1/6 step. I would send the camera back for calibration. Although I never use the EC, the EC is only for when you have scenes like backlighted or spotlighted etc.. I switch to manual in these situations.

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