Earworms wrote:
Super Glue is Cyano Acrylate Ester or C.A. for short. Polymerization is what causes it to change from a liquid to a solid.
Giving off toxic fumes that can affect humans that breathe too much and those fumes will also fog/damage a number of plastics and similar materials.
Wahawk wrote:
Giving off toxic fumes that can affect humans that breathe too much and those fumes will also fog/damage a number of plastics and similar materials.
Well, just about any glue has solvents. Just make sure and work in a well ventilated area. C.A. isn't problematic when it comes to vapors.
Mr PC wrote:
I've had great luck with anything rubber with Shoo Goo. You can get it at Walgreen's. It's for sneakers. It takes about 24 hours to set up for good, but it ain't coming apart after that. I would apply some and use something like duct tape to hold the rubber in place and let it setup real good for a day. Good luck.
You should contact Nikon, they sell replacement rubber covers for the D300, as I recall under $5. re-glueing is only a stop gap repair, depending on the chemical make up of the glues they may react and come loose sooner.
jeryh
Loc: Oxfordshire UK
Ihad this problem; I used Araldite Rapid, but you have to work quickly- it does the job though.
Rubber cement works also (yes the stuff you used to use in school and for paste ups)...put on BOTH surfaces let dry and then press together, same as using contact cement, plus easier clean up than others mentioned... just rub off excess with your finger.
I believe the same thing happened to my D90. The best solution is to order a new rubber ring. It costs about $10.
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Loctite Super glue. But be careful, get it on your fingers and they get stuck, you will be webbed for years. Only thing that gets it off is acetone.
I used PLIOBOND an industrial adhesive to repair rubber on my lens and cameras without any problem just follow the directions
http://amzn.to/1ScTqys
I would avoid glues like Super Glue or any cyano acrylic glues as they are very hard and brittle when they cure. This will tend to make the rubber itself hard and brittle, and the glue joint itself will tend to failure in a heavy wear area like that.
The Shoo Goo sounds promising as it would have to remain flexible after it cures (considering what it's designed for). The glue I have the most luck with in these type of situations is Contact Cement. It adheres to every surface I've tried and still has some 'give' when it cures so your rubber will continue to feel like rubber after the glue sets.
You can buy these rubber parts at amazon and on ebay. They have the adhesive tape already attached for around $20.00 it's by far the best way to go. Gluing with superglue or anything permanent may make removing them for repairs impossible. Bought mine off of amazon 3 years ago and they are stuck just fine.
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Picdude wrote:
I would avoid glues like Super Glue or any cyano acrylic glues as they are very hard and brittle when they cure. This will tend to make the rubber itself hard and brittle, and the glue joint itself will tend to failure in a heavy wear area like that.
The Shoo Goo sounds promising as it would have to remain flexible after it cures (considering what it's designed for). The glue I have the most luck with in these type of situations is Contact Cement. It adheres to every surface I've tried and still has some 'give' when it cures so your rubber will continue to feel like rubber after the glue sets.
I would avoid glues like Super Glue or any cyano a... (
show quote)
I have used super glue for years on rubber and it has never hardened. Where do you get your facts ?
mborn wrote:
I used PLIOBOND an industrial adhesive to repair rubber on my lens and cameras without any problem just follow the directions
http://amzn.to/1ScTqysPliobond is correct, and sold at ACE and other hardware stores.
Have been using it on cameras I buy and sell for many years. Just follow the directions. It's much like a contact cement that is removable.
I also do this, when the grips are available. They come with double sided tape cut to fit, peel paper off the adhesive and apply.
Very good experience with these from eBay.
These rubber grips don't just come unglued, they expand and have a tendency to exude an oily substance that contaminates the surface of the rubber. Both surfaces need to be completely clean before any glue will stick. I use Acetone to clean the surfaces thoroughly and then glue with a marine quality contact cement or, a bonding agent called Plio Bond. Please don't use Gorilla glue. It doesn't work all that well and is tough to clean off when the grips are replaced.
If the grips are stretched, they'll need to be replaced. I can sell you what you need or you can buy the grips directly from Nikon. (Recommended).
http://parts.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/DSLR-Parts/D300-Parts/index.pageThese come with adhesive tape already attached. Just peel and stick. Again, make sure the camera surface is clean beforehand. You can use alcohol and a Q-tip. This is a little slower than Acetone but works well.
Before you send it in for an overhaul, check the shutter count at this site. You'll need to access the last image shot with your computer, but it will give you an idea of how many shots are on it.
http://www.camerashuttercount.com/Shutter lifespan for the D300 is around 100,000. If the numbers are close, contact me by PM about an overhaul. I'm a professional tech and do these all the time.
Runninglate wrote:
I do try to take care of my camera but over the years the rubber that is on my Nikon 300 is starting to come loose. This is the soft rubber on the body. Has anyone tried to re-glue this? If so what type of glue is best, or is this a situation where I should just send it in to be refurbished by a professional?
Thanks in advance.............~Ron~
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