Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA

If you want to take action photos you must be able to obtain a shutter speed of no less than 1/500 of a second, 1/1000 is better
On the Canon 7D, move your control to the AV setting, select spot focus (spot focus because you are trying to get the athlete in focus, and have a background that is as blurred as possible. Select A1 focus, set the shooting mode to continious to be able to shoot at a faster frame rate vs shooting in the single mode.
If you are shooting indoors you want to select an ISO setting that will allow you to capture the action at the higher shutter speeds. Open you lens to the widest opening, yours is 2.8. Check your ISO settings to make sure your ISO is high enough to stop action @ 1/500.
Where you are allowed to shoot, your position on the will also govern how well you can capture the shots. If you change where you are shooting of course your setting so keep an eye on your shutter speed when you change your location on the floor.

coco1964 Loc: Winsted Mn

On a Tamron 18-270mm, 3.5-6.3 lens which she said she is using, how do you open it up to 2.8???

Dun1 Loc: Atlanta, GA

My oversight, I am certainly glad you pointed out my error, however, she might be able to adopt the remainder of the settings, and other settings I sent her via msg.

philkaos Loc: Barstow, CA

I shoot with a canon 7D. The Tamron lens is a decent lens. The breakdown of the lens being 18-270 on full frame that makes it 28.8-432mm equivalent focal length on Canon APS-C cameras. Having a 62mm opening means you need more light to "stop frame" the image indoors without adequate lighting.

I shoot action sports. I would recommend getting a high powered flash. Assuming you have at least a speedlite 360 you could use that with a defuser sock. But I would suggest picking up a Neewer 560. It comes with a light bender strip, defuser lens, and you can adjust the aim and intensity. It's less then $50 on Amazon.com . If I'm not working on long exposure I will allow the camera to factor in the speed equation by shooting on P. I adjust my quick settings based on my lighting, need for speed (high speed continuous or snap shots) fine light on camera censor adjustments, and servo set. I also change my metering. I use center weighted point evaluated metering.

Flash link: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Panasonic-Fujifilm-single-contact/dp/B004LEAYXY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1423012280&sr=1-1&keywords=neewer+flash

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

Nice try but no points. Welcome to the Forum but my biggest complaint is about posters who offer answers without READING THE THREAD!

From 2 weeks ago:

:roll: :-(

selig1656 Loc: Bel Air , Md

not to sure but to freeze the subject and still show movement try panning while utilizing a flash.Those better knowledgeable can address this far better than I can, Just a suggestion.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

Read the pertinent article by OddJobber posted just above yours.

selig1656 Loc: Bel Air , Md

Point well taken , thank you for a kind reminder . I did skim over the thread but truly should have been more thorough. Thanks again.

brokeweb Loc: Philadelphia

Faster shutter speeds and lower dof's, you get them with higher ISO's

Don Fischer Loc: Antelope, Ore

I do a lot of action shot's but, Mine are outside. I do not try to time shots, rather I shoot in constant servo, constant aperture. Big difference between you and I is your inside, I'm out. Difference's are the light and you know pretty close to where your subject will be when you shoot. You might be able to time those shot's, I've never tried that. I don't use spot metering on moving animal's, to hard to hard for me to get it right. Were I indoors I'd try ape pri at about f8 or lower. Adjust the white balance to the light you have, auto WB might work, I've never tried it. Set the aperture you want, f8 will give more depth of field. Then start moving the ISO up until you get a shutter speed you want.

I have just recently started using M mode. I set the camera on A and and meter through the camera. Note the settings and set them in M mode and try it on anything in the area. I move them around to get what looks good to me. Little time consuming to start but inside any way, the light should not be changing. Once set you should be good to go. Use enough A and ISO to get what you want, stop motion. I stop running dog's with 1/630 sec. Don't forget to match your White Balance to the light you have.

jockellis Loc: Cumming, GA

Mcceed is correct. Your daughter either understands that or she got lucky. If there are adapters made for your camera that will allow you to use film ere lenses you might invest in one of these and a fast 135 or 200mm lens for just these situations where only the fastest shutter speed will do.

TommiRulz Loc: Corpus Christi, TX

Hi Sue - Here is a great video to help learn your 7D! Go to michaelthemaven.com and purchase 7D crash course. It is AWESOME!!!!! You will totally understand Shutter speed, ISO, and Focus Clusters after watching this!!
You will still need to practice practice practice - it's hard in an indoor facility (because of the lighting) to get great sports photos - you may need to invest in a 2.8 lens - ugh$$$$. But just depends how important it is.

jockellis Loc: Cumming, GA

Sue, there are plenty of books at the library that will explain all this. You can move the dial from P to anything else and you still won't get the shot until you can open your lens to whatever it takes to allow a certain amount of light into the camera in 1/500 or (better) 1/1000 second to record a correct exposure.
Or as someone suggested, study the action and determine if their is a moment in which the movement stops in one direction but before it starts in another. This takes thought and practice. You might also check out a book with great sports photos and learn from the pros. Cheapest thing would be to buy a $30 glass adapter and an old f1.4 50mm lens or f2 100mm film camera lens for these indoor shots. I doubt if you are into photography to spend money but get good memories.

Don Fischer Loc: Antelope, Ore

Of couse there is another option if they will allow it. Use a flash! Herb Kessler wrote many years ago, don't waste your time with the fast glass. If you need f2.8 to get the shot, you won't get anything anyone would pay you for in the first place. That was long ago in film days.

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

Read the thread. Flash not allowed!