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Jan 28, 2015 18:06:07   #
texaseve Loc: TX, NC and NH
 
Thanks Lighthouse! I am not real computer savy. I try though.

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Jan 28, 2015 18:35:05   #
drosegarden Loc: Kansas
 
imagemeister wrote:
This lens At f6.3, with most older camera bodies set to use f5.6 as their recommended max AF stop, will be challenged to provide speedy and accurate AF in conditions other than very good light.


Thanks for the information. The camera I'm thinking about using it on is the D7100.

DeAnne

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Jan 28, 2015 18:36:17   #
drosegarden Loc: Kansas
 
texaseve wrote:
On youtube. This is a good review. Sorry I am not able to get the live link. Canon 100-400 II vs Sigma 150-600 Sport & Tamron 150-600, Canon 400 f5.6 +Wildlife Photography Tips


This was an excellent review. Thanks so much for letting me know about it.

DeAnne

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Jan 28, 2015 19:31:22   #
texaseve Loc: TX, NC and NH
 
You are welcome!

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Jan 28, 2015 21:23:38   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
imagemeister wrote:
Cropping, while never the best option - may NOT necessarily be the worst option - mostly depending on light levels, your sensor, PP software and knowledge to use it - since TC's soak up 1-2 Fstops of light and cropping with good interpolation software does not ! They both loose resolution for sure. From personal experience the Sony in camera interpolation Clear Image Zoom is very, very good but requires shooting in JPEG. There are other good interpolation software out there. And, you don't have to deal with the physicality of TC's.
Cropping, while never the best option - may NOT ne... (show quote)


Meister, I've never depended on software to make an image sharper.
This is an interesting concept. But interpolation is the computer deconstructing an image then constructing it closer by guessing how the image should look.
An extender does rob light, but I would never use one in conditions where the light was too low as that would already give us added inherent IQ problems such as blur or noise.
Though I have not tried a program that specializes in interpolating the image closer, I can't begin to believe it could be better than native resolution, and except for a very small drop in IQ, an extender basically becomes native magnification.
Plus plenty of cameras today will focus to f8.
I will keep practicing getting closer whether physically or optically as a way to get my shots sharper vs digital zoom. ;-)
SS

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Jan 28, 2015 21:42:29   #
nsilberma Loc: San Jose, Calif.
 
Works great with my Canon 70D. Should work as well with Nikon.
Just used it on a trip to Galapagos.


Stoshu wrote:
I am a Nikon (D-810)guy that just purchased the Tamron 70-200mm f2.8. I have the assortment of Nikkor wide, mid-range and prime lenses. My question is Im looking at the Tamron 150-600mm for birds and misc. wildlife. Does anyone have experience with this lens and/or suggestions on alternatives? The reviews on the Tamron are fairly good but the price is more attractive at 1059.00.

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Jan 28, 2015 21:44:27   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
Hi Stoshu, Welcome to the hog farm. :-D

I'm a Tamron shooter.
Something I have learned about the Big Tammy, Patience.
This lens, in my experiance, is very definitive about being right on spot as it has a ... sensitive... depth of field.
Don't get discouraged if you aren't getting what you wished you were at first.
I use a single point focus with mine, and squeeze that trigger.
If you aren't dead on, you will get what the lens is locked on.

I learned a lot from Regis here on UHH. He can get his Tamron 150-600mm to capture very fine photographs.
I'm finally getting there with mine. But it has been with a lot of trial and error, error, error, on my part.

But maybe proof-it-out with stationary targets before moving on to moving targets. And study the DOF you achieve. It can be maddening at first.
And I believe that lack of understanding has lead to people declaring it "soft". When in fact, they expected it to be broader ranging. It's not, it is very precise.

That understood, it is a great lens at it's price.

The next one up is the Sigma Sports Model, 150-600mm which is receiving accolades from it's new users.But it is also nearly $1000 more in price.

Don't forget that today's high megapixel sensors allow a lot of crop room. And at 36 MP, you have the best camera going.

Have fun!
And do show us your progress with your Big Tammy. ;)

Here is a recent post with some DOF examples I put up:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-278646-1.html#4702802

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Jan 28, 2015 21:57:39   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
drosegarden wrote:
Those are great photos Dave. I, too, am in Kansas. Since it can be bleak here sometimes in the winter I was glad to see some photos taken here because I was wondering how the lens would do in low light.

Have you tried the Tamron 150-600mm with birds flying? I have been wondering if it is a slow lens, and if it is a slow lens, will it take good photos when the birds are in flight?

DeAnne


Hi DeAnne, Welcome to the Hog Farm.

I'm what I consider, a rank amiture still.
But in my experiance, my Tamron 150-600mm is it is very fast to find focus lock. (And pleasantly quiet at it.)
I shoot Humming Birds, and Grand Kids Soccer.
Generally, both move pretty fast. So fast focus acquisition is pretty paramount.

I recently discovered that the 3D focus mode in my D3300 Nikon has taken me to a new level.
Gene51 posted a link to a bookmark-able explanation.
http://photographylife.com/dslr-autofocus-modes-explained
I was too busy today to work with it and my Big Tammy, but tomorrow is another day. ;)

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Jan 28, 2015 22:01:25   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
SharpShooter wrote:
Meister, I've never depended on software to make an image sharper.
This is an interesting concept. But interpolation is the computer deconstructing an image then constructing it closer by guessing how the image should look.
An extender does rob light, but I would never use one in conditions where the light was too low as that would already give us added inherent IQ problems such as blur or noise.
Though I have not tried a program that specializes in interpolating the image closer, I can't begin to believe it could be better than native resolution, and except for a very small drop in IQ, an extender basically becomes native magnification.
Plus plenty of cameras today will focus to f8.
I will keep practicing getting closer whether physically or optically as a way to get my shots sharper vs digital zoom. ;-)
SS
Meister, I've never depended on software to make a... (show quote)


Personally, in over 25 years of dabbling in digital, I have yet to find sharpening to my liking.
Hence, why I am a stickler for getting it right in the camera. ;)

Poop is Poop, and as such should be deleted.

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Jan 28, 2015 23:05:12   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
SharpShooter wrote:
Meister, I've never depended on software to make an image sharper.
This is an interesting concept. But interpolation is the computer deconstructing an image then constructing it closer by guessing how the image should look.
An extender does rob light, but I would never use one in conditions where the light was too low as that would already give us added inherent IQ problems such as blur or noise.
Though I have not tried a program that specializes in interpolating the image closer, I can't begin to believe it could be better than native resolution, and except for a very small drop in IQ, an extender basically becomes native magnification.
Plus plenty of cameras today will focus to f8.
I will keep practicing getting closer whether physically or optically as a way to get my shots sharper vs digital zoom. ;-)
SS
Meister, I've never depended on software to make a... (show quote)


I HAVE tried it - and it is quite impressive !

The idea is not to make your image "sharper" but to preserve what you do have. BTW, the whole idea of processing an image off a sensor involves serious interpolation - without interpolation you would have no recognizable image at all !
My point is, you can use interpolation software - the latest being specialized "intelligent" interpolation - especially - when you do not have the light to use a TC - and the results will be at least equal - or - better than using TC's without the noise, weight and physical inconvenience. Sony limits their CIZ software to 2X. No, it is not better than native resolution - but IMHO, it is equal to or better than using an optical TC. You may label a TC as "native magnification" - but it is still degradation !
I do realize this is a new concept for many - but it is the future.........as are mirrorless cameras and EVF's.

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