Flash bracket for Nikon d800 (Page 2): Can you tell me the purpose of the "L" bracket? I would use it on a D800 with no grip but I can't seem to understand the use of the "L" bracket.

tradio Loc: Oxford, Ohio

Bobbee wrote:

http://www.promediagear.com/BOOMERANG-FLASH-BRACKET-For-Cameras-with-GripBattery-Pack_p_30.html

Can you tell me the purpose of the "L" bracket? I would use it on a D800 with no grip but I can't seem to understand the use of the "L" bracket.

smith934 Loc: Huntsville, Alabama

tradio wrote:

Can you tell me the purpose of the "L" bracket? I would use it on a D800 with no grip but I can't seem to understand the use of the "L" bracket.

I have a Kirk L bracket on my D800 with grip. It's used with an Arca Swiss plate to make quick changes from Landscape to Portrait camera orientation without having to reposition the camera/tripod that you would get if making the change with a ballhead. Also have one for my D7100.

tradio Loc: Oxford, Ohio

smith934 wrote:

i have a Kirk L bracket on my D800 with grip. It's used with an Arca Swiss plate to make quick changes from Landscape to Portrait camera orientation without having to reposition the camera/tripod that you would get if making the change with a ballhead. Also have one for my D7100.

Thanks,
it all makes sense now.

Bobbee

tradio wrote:

Can you tell me the purpose of the "L" bracket? I would use it on a D800 with no grip but I can't seem to understand the use of the "L" bracket.

I do not use the L bracket and have no idea what it would be used for. the boomerang goes H & V with the plate for you camera. It is flat, mounts to the bottom and grips slightly up and around the sides. I see no use for the L

smith934 Loc: Huntsville, Alabama

Bobbee wrote:

I do not use the L bracket and have no idea what it would be used for. the boomerang goes H & V with the plate for you camera. It is flat, mounts to the bottom and grips slightly up and around the sides. I see no use for the L

And L Bracket, he ferrers to, is used to change camera orientation, not flash orientation, all the while keeping the camera in and lens in the same plane, eliminating the need to recompose as you would with a ballhead.

Bobbee

smith934 wrote:

And L Bracket, he ferrers to, is used to change camera orientation, not flash orientation, all the while keeping the camera in and lens in the same plane, eliminating the need to recompose as you would with a ballhead.

That I get, but at the Boomerang site there is an L Bracket closely associated with the flip Bracket. I never saw the need for the L bracket with the Boomerang. It already does that. I may have misread their advertising. Kay Sa Ra Sa Ra.

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

doc4140 wrote:

I am interested in getting better photos for group/ party photos and I have a sb600 flash. I wanted to get a flash holder that gets the flash higher to avoid shadows. Is the Stroboframe what most of the pros are using or is there one better. Also I would want the bracket to change when using the camera in portrait vs landscape. I am also using the RRS quick release plate and I assume that I would have to remove it to use the flash bracket.

Flash brackets hold the heavy flash/batteries quite high above the camera, and we found that, after using it for 8-10 hours covering a wedding, it became very unbalanced and awkward to use.
The Lite-Scoop keeps the flash higher than the lens in both landscape and portrait modes but weighs less than an ounce, requires no flash cords, is faster from one mode to another and softens the light without waste at the same time.
Check out how it works here:
http://youtu.be/-qR3owdOM6U

Bobbee

Weddingguy wrote:

Flash brackets hold the heavy flash/batteries quite high above the camera, and we found that, after using it for 8-10 hours covering a wedding, it became very unbalanced and awkward to use.
The Lite-Scoop keeps the flash higher than the lens in both landscape and portrait modes but weighs less than an ounce, requires no flash cords, is faster from one mode to another and softens the light without waste at the same time.
Check out how it works here:
http://youtu.be/-qR3owdOM6U

Don't have that problem.

loveandpeace Loc: Southeast Iowa

I have a Custom Brackets QRS-35-H. "QRS" stands for quick release. They are precisely machined units that easily rotate between portrait and landscape mode, but they're pricey. The unit costs $195, plus you need about another $100 worth of add-ons. It's a good investment if you plan to use it a lot, as it looks indestructible. The build quality reminds me of Really Right Stuff. You don't need an L-bracket with it. Custom Brackets makes a number of other brackets besides this one. You can check it out at

http://www.custombrackets.com/products/camera-flash-brackets/qrs-2.html

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

doc4140 wrote:

I am interested in getting better photos for group/ party photos and I have a sb600 flash. I wanted to get a flash holder that gets the flash higher to avoid shadows. Is the Stroboframe what most of the pros are using or is there one better. Also I would want the bracket to change when using the camera in portrait vs landscape. I am also using the RRS quick release plate and I assume that I would have to remove it to use the flash bracket.

The best thing is to move your flash off camera as far as possible. No really, a flash bracket is fine (but not needed, just hold your flash at arms length in your left hand), but for best results, you want your flash far enough out, so it can create nice shadows!!

amehta Loc: Boston

speters wrote:

The best thing is to move your flash off camera as far as possible. No really, a flash bracket is fine (but not needed, just hold your flash at arms length in your left hand), but for best results, you want your flash far enough out, so it can create nice shadows!!

I like having my left hand for zooming and helping hold the camera. A full frame camera with a 24-70mm f/2.8 or 70-200mm f/2.8 is a bit heavy to hold with one hand during an event.

Hunakai

I have the Altos bracket. I find it functional when I want to attach a small umbrella as well as a second flash. However, I find it tricky to go from horizontal to vertical.
My other bracket is a "justrite" bracket, and it transitions swiftly from horizontal to vertical and stays firmly in either position. It gets the flash unit up high and is effective in both positions. It allows for quick disconnect from the flash unit, as well as a guick disconnect for the camera. Fully assembled with camera and flash attached, setting the whole unit down on a flat surface is is also built in to the justrite. As with any camera accessory, it seems there is no "one size fits all" solution, but if there might be any way these two bracketa could find their way to merge their best features, I'd be interested in trying it out!

amehta Loc: Boston

tradio wrote:

Can you tell me the purpose of the "L" bracket? I would use it on a D800 with no grip but I can't seem to understand the use of the "L" bracket.

The balance is much better using an L bracket to get vertical shots than moving the ball head to the side. With a monopod, many times no head is needed, just a QR clamp, and the L-plate switches to vertical shots.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

doc4140 wrote:

I am interested in getting better photos for group/ party photos and I have a sb600 flash. I wanted to get a flash holder that gets the flash higher to avoid shadows. Is the Stroboframe what most of the pros are using or is there one better. Also I would want the bracket to change when using the camera in portrait vs landscape. I am also using the RRS quick release plate and I assume that I would have to remove it to use the flash bracket.

If you are trying to avoid harsh shadows, raising the light will only change the direction of the shadows - using a Fong or other small modifier will help a tiny bit, but only if your subject to light distance is relatively short - less than 4 feet. Your best result will be to use a large bounce card, either DIY or using A Better Bounce Card XL, or using existing surfaces to bounce from. The larger the bounce surface, the smoother the shadows and the softer the light will be. Shadows are harsh because the light source acts like a point source. The further away you are from your subject, the larger the bounce surface you will need to smooth out the light. You can leave your flash on the camera's hot shoe, or get a rotating bracket, but utilize the flash unit's ability to point the flash in different directions - and avoid pointing a flash at a subject at all costs, unless you are making a deliberate creative decision to make the light harsh.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

amehta wrote:

I like having my left hand for zooming and helping hold the camera. A full frame camera with a 24-70mm f/2.8 or 70-200mm f/2.8 is a bit heavy to hold with one hand during an event.

I was referring to have your flash away from your camera by a ways, if you have it just off for the distance of a flash-bracket, your left arm will do just fine, but personally, I would go far beyond that!