Night Photography (Page 3): I would have brought my tripod and wireless remote and shot in aperture priority mode.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

I would have brought my tripod and wireless remote and shot in aperture priority mode.

wingincamera Loc: Spanaway, Washington

Another thing nice about using lower iso's & smaller f stops is long shutter speeds (reason for the tripod). Slower shutter speeds means that if someone walks through the scene they will not show up in the photo. Moving subjects are not in the scene long enough to register on the sensor.

lobo-1 Loc: New Park,Pa

dragon64 wrote:

Many of my best nighttime photos were taken with my Canon A-1 or my F1 both with a f1.4 lens ( yep, film cameras). I haven't returned to those locations in recent years to try to duplicate those photos with my DSLR's to see the differences.

Welcome to the uhh Dragon64
I live in New Park.

georgevedwards Loc: Essex, Maryland.

I always wondered why the people disappeared in some of my night photos!

wingincamera wrote:

Another thing nice about using lower iso's & smaller f stops is long shutter speeds (reason for the tripod). Slower shutter speeds means that if someone walks through the scene they will not show up in the photo. Moving subjects are not in the scene long enough to register on the sensor.

plo_63

Sharp Shooter, what does it mean to float your ISO?

Thanks,
plo

gotahave

To loupe
It's not the camera, but the photographer. You guys got to get over it with the my camera system is better then yours crap. And might I add it's not the lens, you can take great pictures with any lens. It is the composition that makes a great photo not the type of camera or the lens. When you become a better photographer you will realize this

RolandComfort Loc: Saint Louis

Its always the triad - ISO, shutter speed, and f/stop. If you take from one you must give to the others. Shooting at night, I'd start with ISO and set it to 1250 max (best for 7D). Now you have to think about depth of field. Are you okay with minimum f/stop or do you want a deeper depth of field? After that, all that's left is shutter speed. Typical night landscape, ISO 1250, f/5.6, shutter floating in AV mode, camera absolutely on a tripod. If you're shooting action, drunk people falling down in the street, then use a TTL flash, or wing it strobist style using manual settings, or go TV with shutter at no less than 60 and ISO floating at A (auto), but you'll end up with awful 6400 ISO natural light pictures that aren't good for much.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

plo_63 wrote:

Sharp Shooter, what does it mean to float your ISO?

Thanks,
plo

plo, floating the ISO means to put it on Auto ISO and let the camera pick the ISO.
I use it quite frequently in very difficult and changing lighting situations, where one normally needs to use very high ISO, which produces very poor pics. Normally, one sets a very high ISO, and all the pics are bad. If you float your ISO, some of the pics will be high ISO and poor, but some will be at much lower ISO, which will render some of then very usable. Better some than none.
That is why and when I float my ISO. Normally I shoot at ISO 100, and raise the ISO only if my two other triangle points will not allow a proper shot.
plo, may all your shots be quiet. ;-)
SS

raysass Loc: Brooklin, On, Canada.

llouie wrote:

Used a Canon for years. Nikon is far superior with their lenses and camera.

So why are you having problems with Nikon?

raysass Loc: Brooklin, On, Canada.

gotahave wrote:

To loupe
It's not the camera, but the photographer. You guys got to get over it with the my camera system is better then yours crap. And might I add it's not the lens, you can take great pictures with any lens. It is the composition that makes a great photo not the type of camera or the lens. When you become a better photographer you will realize this

:thumbup: :thumbup:

plo_63

Sharp Shooter,

Thanks for the information, I'm new to photography and some of the lingo is hard to understand.

plo