SoftLights Loc: New Orleans, LA

SoftLights Loc: New Orleans, LA

I've been looking at one of these made by SUNPAK, model NE-2D. A label on the back of the unit indicates it is for Nikon F-3, FE, FE-2, FG, FA, EM. The seller said he is not sure if it is safe for use on modern DSLRs. Can you tell me if it is safe to use on my D7100, D2x, D200 etc.

Thank you for any info you can provide.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I've used mine on my D70s,D300 & D7100 with no problems... As I said in my previous post, I had that same NE-2D foot on a few of my units, but found that I had to tape over all but the center contacts in order to get the unit to fire when I pressed the shutter. I have since gotten a "standard" foot which only has the center trigger pin & it works great... Most of my macro shots on my Flickr site were taken with this ring/point light & a Lester Dine 105mm macro...

hippi Loc: Sedalia MO

check with the manf. of your camera they should have a list of flashes that will are willnot work with your camera

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

They wouldn't be of any help as they would only know of the compatibility with their own OEM products. Same goes for Sunpack as this unit was made in the 1980's and they would suggest you buy something more current. After all, they can't make money if you are not buying a current product...

Wall-E Loc: Phoenix, AZ

I looked at several websites purporting to give the trigger voltages for older flash units, and can't find that unit listed. Too esoteric?

But the Nikon bodies listed for that unit were capable of hi-voltage triggering. I wouldn't chance it without using a safe-synch.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=wein+safe-sync&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

I have one that I use with a Sunpak 622 on my D100's and D200's.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I tested my units with a multimeter & they checked out fine. Nikon says nothing over 250 volts & no negative voltage. I have used the same unit on 3 different Nikon DSLR's without a problem for years. The site you are thinking of is
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
It gives guides for older units. The safe sync is a good idea if you can't measure the trigger voltage of an older unit though. The Lester Dine unit I use is very similar to the Sunpak OEM Sunpak Auto DX 12R unit (which has the same shoe) but the Dine unit also has a "point" light as well as the ring light.

Nikonbob Loc: Upper Chichester, PA

I use natural light for most macro shots (also with a D7100), BUT, even "static" objects move, swaying with the mildest breeze. At macro ranges, even a slight breeze will move flowers and other subjects in and out of focus and frame. A ring-flash is not necessarily the answer. It's often better to use one or two off-shoe standard flashes to provide a more natural lighting effect complete with some shadows. A tripod is 90% of your answer.

The LED ring-flashes are not very powerful, so research carefully before purchasing one. If your are planning to use smaller apertures to increase depth-of-field, the LED flashes are not going to be useful.

Even an inexpensive flash used with an off-shoe flash cable, such as the Nikon SC-29 (latest & greatest), will work well. You will want to get a moveable bracket to hold the flash in position, though it's very feasible with practice, to hold the flash in one hand when shooting. The SC-29 is pricey ($75), so shop for after-market units.

Good luck. Japanese Maples are fantastic trees. If you're interested, I have some examples of macro shots with and without flash here:

http://www.f22productions.com/galleries.html

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

The Dine unit I use has a built in "Point" light , thus making it able to switch from ring to point. The 2 flash setup & tripod works well for close up images , but falls short for insect & other live critters as they will likely not sit still while you set up your gear. The only drawback I have found with a ring/point light is spectral highlights from highly reflective surfaces...I have added an image of what I use & also an image taken with this setup for obsevational purposes...

some of my macro lighting


Brown Stink bug that just molted

Nikonbob Loc: Upper Chichester, PA

You're so right. Moving insects create a real challenge. Nice setup you have and thanks for sharing the great shot of the insects.

Bob

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

If not using flash, I agree with that, or you could use some light painting. If you do go with flash I would not recommend to go automatic. There are only few circumstances were you need auto-flash, 98% of time, you shoot in manual anyway!