JR1 Loc: Tavistock, Devon, UK

I did it, really no one has ever questioned it BUT it occurred to me that people may think I am saying "look for yourself"

When in fact it is as I said easier for me to find a link and post it than spend an hour trying to word it spell check it then have my son check it :)

GrahamS Loc: Hertfordshire, U.K

Here 'ya go, Charlie, and you don't have to leave the Hog.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-103350-1.html
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-102223-1.html

MagicFad Loc: Clermont, FL

The effects would be stopping or blurring motion with shutter priority and depth of field for aperture priority. That's the short version.

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

I like to shoot dragon flies "on-the-wing", that is while they are flying. If you have observed them, you have noted that they are quick and unpredictable - able to change direction faster than you can blink your eye. In that context I shoot aperture, wide open with ISO over 1000, sometimes I stop the wings, other time I get motion blur. On occasion, when they are sitting on something, I may have a very shallow DOF- head in focus, tip of abdopmen not.

redpepper Loc: Central NY

Ive been in photography for 30 yrs..a hobbyist. I find aperature/shutter priority works for me when I have no time tp "chimp". Otherwise, I take the time to take/make several adjustments when I want more control over what the image will render. I know of one photographer that always shoots wide open and a 1/100 shutter speed. She only tweeks the ISO! Her images are amazing, as is her L lens. You jave to find what works for you.

achesley Loc: SW Louisiana

Aperature/Shutter/Auto/P it just all depends on the who, where ,what and how of the shot. Learn a bit about all of them.

Scoutman Loc: Orlando, FL

Yes, as Nikonian remarked, the perfect answer with great examples.

Yet. There will be more. Let mine not take this beyond the second page of replies.

Birdie....1947 Loc: Central La.

Thanks JR, I love that answer, sometimes one will hit you right in the face and you say I like that and I like you too!

SteveR Loc: Michigan

Always? My only question would be why? I might understand her preference for shooting wide open, but why limit yourself to 1/100? Depending upon lighting conditions, faster speed might be a necessity, unless, of course, she ONLY works in certain light conditions.

Frapha Loc: Tulsa, Oklahoma

I'm a big fan of http://camerasim.com/ -- especially their DSLR Camera Simulator, which lets you tinker with all parts of the exposure triangle and get instant feedback as to the result of any change you make. They also have other real-time simulators available, but the DSLR Simulator is an excellent learning tool.

redpepper Loc: Central NY

Steve, she told me she just wants to toggle with one factor of the triangle. Lol!

RDH

What has not been noted so far (probably an oversight ) is that most lenses have a best aperture, sweet spot. Shooting in aperture priority it is possible to manipulate ISO and shutter speed to take advantage of this. Of course there are times when I use shutter priority or change lenses to get the combination that I want.

Kuzano

I'll take a crack at this....

Aperture Priority means that you have told the camera that you will be controlling what aperture setting is set for a picture.
When you control (or better said... manually SET) the aperture, you will control the depth of field, ie the amount of distance IN focus in front of and behind the subject of primary focus. You are letting the camera choose the shutter speed.

Shutter Priority means that you have told the camera that you will be controlling what shutter speed is set for a picture. When you control (or better said.... manually SET) the shutter speed, you are controlling the appearance of action, either stopping fast action, or enhancing the effect of action. You are letting the camera choose the aperture setting by it's automated programming and meter.

The next level is full manual (yes I know you did not ask.. this is BONUS information) in Full manual or M operation, you are informing the camera that you will be controlling BOTH the Aperture setting AND the Shutter Speed.

Within the confines of the exposure triad. Shutter Speed, Aperture, and sensor speed (ISO) you still use the meter as a basis for normal starting exposure, but you allow yourself the opportunity to run up and down the scale of reciprocals on Aperture vs. Shutter speed for different effects on the final image.

Summary

Aperture priority... you manually choose aperture size, camera chooses shutter speed. Your choice of Aperture affects the focus field for the image.

Shutter priority... you manually choose shutter speed (time shutter is open), camera chooses Aperture. Your choice of shutter speed either stops action, or blurs action.

Manual or full Manual settings... you manually choose both aperture and shutter speed, with resulting effect based on your growing knowledge of how these setting affect the final image.

Yes, of course, it's somewhat more involved.... as all the books and all the research on the internet, and all the posters on these forums will attest. However, you asked a very simple question.

What do the terms Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority mean.

They mean 1) your choice to manually set the aperture, and 2) your choice to manually set the speed of the shutter, or time the shutter is open.

Wow... it's hard to just stop there. But, there is a hefty fee for goiing forward. :thumbup:

Radioman Loc: Ontario Canada

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Hi JR1, You are doing 'great'. it is clear that you are not 'lazy' as it takes time and thought to find the right link. All too often, the lazy way is to just run off at the fingers without really thinking of what was being asked in the first place.

rob s Loc: La Mesa, CA

I have AV selected for general photography to give me control of the depth of field. ISO is set to ensure a reasonable range of speeds for the likely subjects.
TV is left set on 1/160 to introduce movement blur when I need this and to provide a setting which will sync with the flash.
This allows me to move the dial one click either way to cover a wide range of images almost instantly.
Obviously I change these when given time to select optimal settings but these two basic settings allow for quick response to anything that presents itself for a shot.
I also have my C (custom) settings preset for HDR bracketing and under and over compensated shots.