I love it...but why did it happen?
Sep 30, 2012 15:02:22 #
OS 1 will be vibes steadied all the time - up to a point- which slows things up but makes the view finder less ill making
OS 2 will be steady only just when you fire - quicker and more effective, also tou can see before hand if you are wobbling as the stabilising is not yet on.
off is of course, no help to you but quickest camera reaction time to the shutter press.
Yes you have to pay attention to the green square, but with a plane in the distance, that square only gives you an idea of which focus point(s) the camera is calculating with. Need a good read of the manual, I dont know how many cross point focus locations the cam uses and how many are just general. Best to pick up the plane, central, half press shutter and so, lock focus (or use AF lock button), then pan and recompose
OS 2 will be steady only just when you fire - quicker and more effective, also tou can see before hand if you are wobbling as the stabilising is not yet on.
off is of course, no help to you but quickest camera reaction time to the shutter press.
Yes you have to pay attention to the green square, but with a plane in the distance, that square only gives you an idea of which focus point(s) the camera is calculating with. Need a good read of the manual, I dont know how many cross point focus locations the cam uses and how many are just general. Best to pick up the plane, central, half press shutter and so, lock focus (or use AF lock button), then pan and recompose
Sep 30, 2012 15:50:45 #
Sep 30, 2012 17:04:32 #
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
It is mostly due to the spot metering and fast shutter and fstop alter one or the other it changes every thing if you open up the back ground would be brighter but more boka close it down then more dark etc. That is if only one is changed at a time if every thing was changed but same values remaned you would get close to same pic. Open up and faster shutter compensates one another
Oct 4, 2012 16:18:42 #
I think you will find that you under exposed the entire scene by ½ stop or so and this will encourage bright colors to "pop" while drab colors darken down slightly. The shallow DOF also contributes to the muted colors in the background. Look closely and you will see the colors, just muted. The flower shows as almost spot on for exposure which puts the background on the under exposed side.
On a side note. I teach a photography class and most of the students are on the experienced side of life. Almost all have opted for LR after seeing how quickly general edits can be not to mention the organizational aspect. I have both CS4-6, Elements and Lightroom and after many years I use LR almost 95% of the time and only use PS for those intense edits. I never use Elements except to keep up to date for the odd student who is just starting out and listened to the salesman.
On a side note. I teach a photography class and most of the students are on the experienced side of life. Almost all have opted for LR after seeing how quickly general edits can be not to mention the organizational aspect. I have both CS4-6, Elements and Lightroom and after many years I use LR almost 95% of the time and only use PS for those intense edits. I never use Elements except to keep up to date for the odd student who is just starting out and listened to the salesman.
Oct 4, 2012 17:31:24 #
Many thanks...i like to try to understand why things happen and some replies to this thread just didnt seem right...yours and a few others make perfect sense...i have learnt a lot!
I will look further into lightroom as soon as I find time
I will look further into lightroom as soon as I find time
Oct 16, 2012 09:40:09 #
Brian in Whitby
Loc: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
Some flowers actively reflect UV light. Bees can see in UV so it is advantageous to the flower to reflect UV. This can make blues and violets more vivid. I know this can have a profound effect on film but I do not know if CCD sensors are sensitive to UV light.
Oct 19, 2012 19:29:52 #
Mar 21, 2013 00:15:16 #
Shallow depth of field when using a long lens keeps the subject sharp and blurs out the background. Nice shot.
Mar 21, 2013 12:37:37 #
docrob
Loc: Durango, Colorado
shaz4146 wrote:
I took this photo with my D300s (nikon) ISO400, 5.6,1/2500, spot metering, focal length 600.
I guess the fast speed had something to do with it but I love the way the image has popped out in colour and the rest has greyed.
How do I recreate this?
Why did it happen?
thanks
I guess the fast speed had something to do with it but I love the way the image has popped out in colour and the rest has greyed.
How do I recreate this?
Why did it happen?
thanks
you did nothing - the flower pops because of the contrast with the darker background so if you want to recreate that learn to pay attention to backgrounds
Mar 21, 2013 17:45:37 #
Dave333
Loc: Forres, Scotland
Shaz, a possible way of getting a dark (black) background can be created by using flash to light your subject, using a shutter speed to sync with the flash and using a small aperture. This would normaly mean shooting in manual mode. Some cameras allow you an option to use, in aperture priority (Av), a maximum shutter speed which will sync with your flash (this is a custom function setting on Canon's). This means your subject is captured nicely but the background would be under exposed by how much depends on the aperture set. Normaly Av with flash, you set the aperture the camera sets the shutter speed for ambient light and your flash regulates the amount of light produced to light the subject correctly. This can mean that a long shutter speed is set by the camera leaving the shutter open after the flash has fired and so allows the background to be seen.
Mar 21, 2013 18:15:07 #
I think someone else also shared this info... Which I tried put... And it worked! I need more practice but going on lots of safaris so busy taking wildlife... Just back from India... But back again early April.
Thanks for your help
Thanks for your help
Apr 5, 2013 15:38:30 #
part of what happened is spot metering, not matrix metering in your camera. If you change your metering to matrix you will get different results.
Or like big-guy said, underexposure, but then probably with camera set to matrix metering.
Or like big-guy said, underexposure, but then probably with camera set to matrix metering.
Apr 5, 2013 16:43:49 #
I haven't read all the posts up to this point, but just in case no-one has suggested it, I'll give my 2 pence worth.
600mm is quite high zoom, so the stuff in the background could be quite a long way away. Is it possible that what you're seeing in the background is in shadow - under trees, perhaps - unlike the flower, which looks as though it is in direct sunlight.
The stuff in the foreground and beside the flower looks as though it is just dark, coincidentally. These two factors combined would explain the "POP" effect.
600mm is quite high zoom, so the stuff in the background could be quite a long way away. Is it possible that what you're seeing in the background is in shadow - under trees, perhaps - unlike the flower, which looks as though it is in direct sunlight.
The stuff in the foreground and beside the flower looks as though it is just dark, coincidentally. These two factors combined would explain the "POP" effect.
Apr 16, 2013 22:40:16 #
One possible reason he can't figure out how to save the "Original" is because he doesn't have the originals. Someone that can shoot the quality of shots he first posted, should be able to post the original. Those images look rather familiar to me. I think he might be using shots from someone else. Not accusing him, but could be a possibility... Cheers.
Apr 17, 2013 01:44:32 #
If you're talking about my original image (hard to tell!) then my comment was because I was new to forum and thought I had saved the original... Which I had! This thread is far too long... But some if the advice has been useful. Though part of me wishes I had never asked!!
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