xt2 wrote:
Your focus on the basket is right on. I spent 60 seconds sharpening a bit, reducing noise and adding a bit of light with this...
Don't add too much light...the woods should be dark and scary...
joecichjr
Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
xt2 wrote:
Your focus on the basket is right on. I spent 60 seconds sharpening a bit, reducing noise and adding a bit of light with this...
Gorgeous portrait in nature of a dog who obviously knows how to picnic ๐๐ค๐๐ค๐
Iโd use a larger aperture, and perhaps a higher ISO to get my shutter speed no slower than 1/15 th. This might require *less* light from the flash.
This also gives you the opportunity to add some diffusion to spread the light over a larger area, or move it further back.
I use HSS and set the camera to about 4000 shutter or whatever speed to get forest or background to exposure I want and that is quick enough to give you sharp focus then the speed light on the subject.
Golden Rule wrote:
I have a sharpness problem that I'm not sure how to solve. Used a monolight to expose dog but had to set camera exposure for dark forest. Settings: ISO 400, f 10 aperture, and .4 shutter speed and used a tripod. I know shutter is the problem but I had to have the forest exposure so the background was not black. Any suggestions on how not to make this mistake again?
Two shots, foreground (subject) and background, composite with Ps or another program.
Love the photos, colors, and especially the subject !
I think I will try a couple of the proposed remedies from above and see what happens. Now, I just need the rain to stop for a few more days so the forest can dry a bit. I don't want to ruin my dog's outfit.
Golden Rule wrote:
I have a sharpness problem that I'm not sure how to solve. Used a monolight to expose dog but had to set camera exposure for dark forest. Settings: ISO 400, f 10 aperture, and .4 shutter speed and used a tripod. I know shutter is the problem but I had to have the forest exposure so the background was not black. Any suggestions on how not to make this mistake again?
First of all, how did you get the dog to sit still in a costume? So cute.
Always focus on the eyes, and adjust your f-stop from there. Maybe 7.1 or 8. Background is often expected to be less sharp, causing the eye to focus on your subject. So, don't worry about getting all that in focus, especially when it's a dark scenario. Focus and expose for the dog. In post adjust the shadows and highlights. As an alternative, you could plant a light in that bright section at the back, to help out the look.
Any suggestions on how not to make this mistake again?First and foremost my sincere compliments on the Golden's Wardrobe Stylist
Such an
Endearing Doggie Narrative... Ok, I've posted a similar scenario below...
Camera: Nikon D3x at 1/3200; f/3.2; ISO 400 (Background Under Exposed by 2/3 Stop)
Lens: AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8G IF ED VR II; FL: 100mm
Illumination: (Once again the Background is Under Exposed by 2/3 Stop via Nikon's CLS iTTL)
Note: Model is Backlit by strong direct sunlight
Key Light A cluster of 4 Shanny SN600SN Speedlights (Nikon SB-910 Clones) in
HSS into a 72" parabolic
This effort required a Lighting Assistant to hold the massive 72" parabolic
btw Nikon's CLS (Creative Lighting System) makes this very straightforward and rather easy.
The main feature of the Nikon CLS system is the ability to use TTL metering with the remote flash.
i.e. In this scenario it is called
i-TTL balanced fill flashHere's an elegant article how to accomplish the aforementioned
by David Walters, a wedding photographer from Liverpool, England.
https://photographylife.com/beginners-guide-to-nikon-creative-lighting-systemAnother Note: David Walter's article mentioned using Nikon's โline of sightโ infrared system for both Trigger abd Transmitter which can be challenging in strong sunlight. In this scenario I relied on
Phottix Odin Trigger/Transmitter systems which are good for up to 300 feet and easily can go around objects (unlike infrared systems). That said I've used the Nikon's Infrared CLS system in bright daylight albeit always deployed (in line of sight).
Hope this helps...
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I use a flash for outdoor portraits. I always expose for the ambient light I wish to achieve and then adjust the flash to adequately light the subject. My starting point is normally f/5.6 @ 1/125 or 1/200. I will adjust the aperture as needed. When I get the ambient light set I then work on the flash, usually starting off with 1/2 power and adjust the flash as needed.
"
I use a flash for outdoor portraits." photoman can you provide imagery to corroborate your inference here?
Again in another thread
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-610529-1.html you claim "
When outdoors shooting people, I normally use off camera flash with shoot through umbrellas." Please share example(s) of your use of off camera flash in this scenario...
The only example I was able to find was of a "Static" closeup of your wife's orchid.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-642903-1.html In that example it is virtually impossible to assess the effect of your external, on-camera flash on the ambient within the venue...
Thank you for your thoughtful consideration of the aforementioned requests.
Wishing you much success on your photographic journey Pastor photoman.
Yes. You need to calibrate your lens. Buy a kit, or set one up with cardboard and a ruler. Hit the YourTubes for a tutorial.
Also, cameras with auto focus have a real tough time in dark environments as they rely on contrast, so bring a flashlight for focus (back of camera button auto focusing), and you should be all set.
Also...boost your flash 2-3 clicks (one stop over) shooting RAW and bring it down to taste in PS. (yay)
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