Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

You need to post an image - add attachment with "store original" box checked.

You need to provide your subject to flash distance, camera ISO setting (cannot be auto - which I am thinking might be the problem), lens aperture and shutter speed.

Once you've provided this info, you'll get what you are looking for -

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

The the Neewer Vision 4 300Ws, sounds like overkill in the Nth degree. Suggestions of using a flash meter are a bit esoteric, if you were sophisticated to that point you would not be posing this post for help.

Certainly, the Neewer Vision 4 300Ws at $270 is quite an overboard flash for typical use. It does have power output adjustment. As was requested, give an example and tell how you used the flash with the softbox. Perhaps a diagram. You are asking people to solve your problem and not telling details needed for the intelligent discussion. Perhaps the best solution is leaving this the Neewer 300Ws blockbuster in the closet and using a smaller flash that costs $50.

For what you are photographing a much less flash may be the best bet. Just because you have this monster flash does not mean it is the best for the "overexposed" photo you are complaining about.

these may prove useful
https://fstoppers.com/education/how-manage-your-flash-when-you-arent-able-adjust-its-power-1755161
https://www.digitalphotomentor.com/how-use-flash-beginner-tips/

OldSchool-WI Loc: Brandon, Wisconsin 53919

Obviously if he bought such a flash he has a reason not to substitute it for a $50 camera flash. Possible a large hall bounce flash or any other important bounce flash? There are many good uses for such a key light with any groupings. As I commented---I would like to have one for those occasions even though I have a half dozen camera flashes which can fire at once. Bounce flash is important in getting a natural look. Certainly trial and error---reflectors and other aids are part of good flash photography---but in such off camera work a flash meter is helpful---not esoteric.------ew

BebuLamar

I don't think the flash has too much power. Possibly the OP overexpose using ambient light.

foathog Loc: Greensboro, NC

Did you read the first "review" that came with the spec sheet? The reviewer said she used it for one year and it stopped working. YET SHE GAVE IT 4 STARS. LOL

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Thanks for that!

Up here in Canada, we are on their Metric System. When I clicked on the OP's link I got a website from the UK- also Metric. My "strobe brain" is still on the U.S. system as to the estimation of distance and instinctive aperture setting. My "darkroom brian" is more comfortable with Metric, but I don't have a wet darkroom anymore, but I am still good in the kitchen or with cleaners and laundry detergent.

I have always been a bit suspicious as to published guide numbers. I usually found, over the years, that they are exaggerated and when I purchase a new flash unit, I usually establish my own GN which tends to be lower. Manual expose also varies as to the size of the room, the reflectivity of surrounding walls, etc.

The big problem that I fined in the published specification is they will start the watt-seconds output, which is electrical power (capacitance and voltage) and not light. Experienced flash users can estimate what a unit will do based on w-s output but a newcomer to flash can find it difficult to make the correlation. The old and more useful specification was B.CP.S. or E.C.P.S who are Beam or Effective Candle Power Seconds, respectively. This number is usually followed by an angle of coverage such as 60 degrees, etc. There is a formula which is: the SQUARE ROOT of .036 X BCPS X ISO+ GN. So, a typical strobe of 2300 B.C.P.S at ISO 100 would yield a GN of about 120 or f/12 at 10 feet.

There are caveats. This calculation holds of the flash is used directly with originally supplied reflector. Once you get into a bounce, softboxes, umbrellas or any modifier all bets are off, however, the basic calculation is a start bounce. and for those in the know a way of determining a flash unit's practical usage and general performance when contemplating a purchase.

Of course, this is all a basis for manual exposure calculation based on the inverse square law.

In a studio or studio-like setup, once the basic calculation is applied, it is usually easy for the photographer to instinctively set variations of exposures without too much mathematics. Even in a manual mobile and handheld situation an experienced shooter can estimate distance and set the aperture accordingly. For unfamiliar situations or more complex multiple flas setups, a flash meter is more of a necessity.

There is nothing wrong with auto-flash or more sophisticated TTL exposure management systems if you have flas gear with hose features that are compatible with the camera system in use. I have used these systems successfully, however, I sometimes have to override the system to accommodate different conditions that may throw off the automatic system in use. Knowing all the theories can be helpful, however, if the OP needs a basic GN he can simply place the flas. at 10 feet for the subject and make a series of exposures and 1/2 stop increments at various power settings and the multiply the successful exposure for each by 10 and stable the basic GN. If he des that with softbox in place, that will be the guide number for that specific setup with that modifier. When the distance is changed, the GN is divided by the GN.

This may seem very rudimentary, however, nowadays with all the automation, command controls, and sophisticated TTL systems, many folks art totally unaware of the manual operation of flash equipment.

There is yet another improvisation, that is calibrating the modelling lamp to the flash tube output and using a standard non-flas meter to calculate exposure. Perhaps that is better saved for another lesson I hope this helps the OP and am sorry he got hazed in the schoolyard.

BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA

If you want help you need to be explicit in your post. Things like shooting mode, flash guide number, Flash settings, and on and on. If you don't have any clue of what is needed then consider it user error.

BebuLamar

It's obvious that it's a user error. Regardless how much light the flash put out it should be easy enough not to get overexposed.

Hip Coyote

I encourage you to take a look at Flashgear.net...those folks use a grey card (they call themselves the grey card mafia) to set up their camera, lights, et al. They also run seminars. I have used their system with some success as well. They are an off camera flash group. They also have a good presence on FB with excellent give and take on flash photography. I also like the stobist.com...that guy has very good on-line training. I may take one of his seminars as well.

Once you see it on youtube, it is quite simple to get in the range of correct exposure then dial in from there. I cannot comment on exposure meters, light meters, etc. For a simple minded hobbyist, such as me, it works.

Posting an image would be very very helpful rather than making people guess

MrPhotog

Is your camera in Manual mode, or is it in one of the automatic exposure modes: Automatic, Aperture priority, Program, Shutter priority.

I suspect your camera may be predicting the exposure based on the light around it before the flash. Then, when the flash goes off, the added blast of light overwhelms the exposure.

You need the camera in manual mode, you need to select a shutter speed the flash will synchronize with, and you need to manually select an aperture. If the pictures remain over exposed the light is too close.

cony25

This is exactly what happened.... and I could only back up until I hit the wall.

So the question, how to synchronize the shutter speed with the flash?

cony25

Yes user error, that's why I am here...

cony25

By the way gentlemen, I am a she...in Texas

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

As requested earlier, post and store the example image(s) so we can inspect the EXIF data along with seeing your description of the results. You'll both (a) cut down on the hassling and (b) get the necessary and actionable help.

cony25

Ok, I have some answers, please don't judge me for whatever stupidity I committed, now that I see the ISO.

Flash power is from 1/1 to 1/64 the huge flash. I played with the power.

Camer was set to auto :(
Overexposed readings are:

f4.0
1/160
iso 10000
sony aiii7

f3.5
1/160
iso12800

Thank you for your help!