cony25

https://neewer.com/products/monolights-10093466?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgP6PBhDmARIsAPWMq6kgx-Iioo_oLCEtDL1ZpOOvDBRT9_3LyWGwOweiiwWZZLcxpXmkHUIaAsmsEALw_wcB&utm_campaign=gs-2021-05-20&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_medium=smart_campaign&utm_source=google&variant=28844327993418


I have this flash with a sofbox. Went to the lowest flash setting and all pictures are overexposed....please help!

yorkiebyte Loc: Scottsdale, AZ/Bandon by the Sea, OR

How 'bout cha' show us an image download... make sure the EXIF (camera setting info...) is there.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

Do you have a flash meter? If not, just stop down the lens until the exposure is correct, or move the light further away.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

Here is what the listing says:

Note:
Vision 4 only supports M, Multi, 2.4G wireless remote;
DO NOT support TTL, HSS Mode; Extremely short flash duration: from 1/1000 to 1/10000 seconds.

So your camera is not going to automatically control exposure. From what is available on the listing, this is a manual flash with 7 or 8 adjustable power levels. You are going to have to figure out the guide number at each power level and use the distance and ISO setting to calculate the proper exposure, shooting in Manual mode. It looks like the Guide Number at full power is 120 in meters at ISO 100. That will get you to a starting point, then you can use test shots to refine your exposure settings.

BebuLamar

Camera on manual, manual ISO as well. Set your ISO at the base ISO (64,100,200 whatever it is for your camera). Set shutter speed to the max or preferably a stop slower than your camera max sync speed. Set your aperture to say f/8. Take a shot. If it too bright set the flash to lower power. If it's too dark set the flash to higher power. If you get to minimum power and it's still too bright use smaller aperture (larger number). If you get to maximum power and it's still too dark use larger aperture (smaller number). It's a very simple thing.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

Typical Cony25 message. Over and over he posts similar inquiries and never follows up with photos, etc. I think he does it to get attention.

cony25

Yes, photo, I am craving attention from you, can you please give it to me?

BebuLamar

Well Cony! Attention or not did you solve your problem? Did you try any of the suggestions?

cony25

Tomorrow I'll set it up again using a higher aperture like you mentioned. I'll tell what happens.

Thank you so much 😃

User ID

That, and lower the (manually set) ISO.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

The unit specification mention 300 watt/seconds and a guide number of 60. Sounds like the GN is specified in meters.

So, the unit without a softbox is used directly, at 10 feet or 3.048m away/22- then deduct 2 stops for the softbox and try f/11 and bracket. This is strictly guesswork to establish a starting point. Start at full power and work yo way down as required.

To establish the true guide number, simply place you lig 10 feet fr the subject, make a series of bracket exposure and the correct f/stop is multiplied by 10. If you do this at all the power settings and still can not achieve a normal exposure at ISO 100, something else is wrong.

Your particular unit is not integrated with any camera's TTL exposure management system. You will be operat in manual mode. This applies to indoor photograher where flas is the only light source. Using it out of doors for fill requires other calculations but you still need to know your power settings and guide numbers.

A flash exposure meter is handy if you are going to do a significant volume or level of flash shooting.

If your camera is set at an extremely high number you can run into overexposure with a moderately powerful flash unit.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

Note that the GN of 60 is based on a distance of 2 meters...

OldSchool-WI Loc: Brandon, Wisconsin 53919

So---the snarkies hit to you, also. Ever since I joined they have been relentless. But that besides----your light seems a good choice. I wish I had one. I have studio LED lights---but not a large strobe like yours. Obviously the advice to use manual settings is correct and adjust from there. You are lucky that the syc seems to work for you anyway. I also have a flash meter---but everybody on UHH laughed when I mentioned the meters a photographer should have---they are--flash--color temp--incident and reflective Weston meters. (Weston has an incident cover cone. (had) I carry those to check for serious shots I don't want to depend on automatic features with. Certainly with digital one can use auto and use reflected on various parts and adjust color balance the same way or use a white card on manual color adjust. But the old meters are the best if you have time to pan and compse your shots.. Anyway---nice light.----Eric

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

--Bob

OldSchool-WI Loc: Brandon, Wisconsin 53919

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