I've shared what I see through my magnified lenses through my focus stacking sessions in my posts on UHH and I wanted to take a moment to share how truely inexpensive magnified macro focus stacking can be and the results you can expect.

First, any interchangeable lens digital camera will do. Nothing special is required so you can even use an older one that you may still have. I use a little Fujifilm X-T20 APS-C size sensor camera for all my sessions now.

Next comes a lens, or better yet, a microscope objective. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the AmScope 4X Plan Achromatic Finite objective that sells for $22.00. It is what I used to produce the image of the flesh fly attached. It provides an ample working distance for illumination which is quite important with higher magnification work. When considering buying any microscope objective be sure to read the technical information regarding its working distance. Many compound microscope objectives have only a sliver of working distance between the end of the objective and the subject for they are intended for use with flat glass specimen slides which they will nearly touch it.

This is a 'finite' objective so all that is required is to extend it in some fashion (bellows, extension tubes, helicoid, etc.) to a distance of 160mm from the plain of the camera's sensor to the tip of the objective. Bellows or tubes can be had new for under $40 on Amazon which work well.

Because the depth of field is ever so shallow...thinner than a sheet of paper at times, a way of taking shot after shot as the camera advances from the closest point of the subject in focus (like the tip of a hair) to the furthest point of focus that you want seen sharp in the final image. This can be done manually, which is the way that I started, however having a digital motorized focus rail takes all the effort out of the process and it eliminates the need to touch the camera or to actuate the shutter as you sit there with the release or timer. This does all of the functions necessary and it can be controlled by a PC, Tablet or a Smartphone either wired or BlueTooth communication. If you consider venturing into high magnification macro/micro it will be the best investment you will ever make.

Lastly, is illumination which is ultimately important. We can use flash or constant lighting and I prefer constant lighting and I use the IKEA LED desk lamps and I use translucent plastic cups, tracing paper, packing foam, paper towels, writing paper, pieces of milk cartons, ping-pong balls, styrofoam cups and plateware, and an endless list of whatever I think will provide a diffused even lighting. I started out with flashes however I was getting thankyou letters from battery companies for all of the batteries I was buying. I went to studio strobes and they would overheat and poop out on me. These inexpensive LED lamps never cause a problem and they are highly maneuverable. I use three of them for my session.

I know that this is not for everyone however it is a great hobby for it can be done indoors regardless of the weather day or night and it is great for anyone that has mobility limitations that cannot enjoy being out and about with their camera in hand.

I've shared what I see through my magnified lenses through my focus stacking sessions in my posts on UHH and I wanted to take a moment to share how truely inexpensive magnified macro focus stacking can be and the results you can expect.

First, any interchangeable lens digital camera will do. Nothing special is required so you can even use an older one that you may still have. I use a little Fujifilm X-T20 APS-C size sensor camera for all my sessions now.

Next comes a lens, or better yet, a microscope objective. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the AmScope 4X Plan Achromatic Finite objective that sells for $22.00. It is what I used to produce the image of the flesh fly attached. It provides an ample working distance for illumination which is quite important with higher magnification work. When considering buying any microscope objective be sure to read the technical information regarding its working distance. Many compound microscope objectives have only a sliver of working distance between the end of the objective and the subject for they are intended for use with flat glass specimen slides which they will nearly touch it.

This is a 'finite' objective so all that is required is to extend it in some fashion (bellows, extension tubes, helicoid, etc.) to a distance of 160mm from the plain of the camera's sensor to the tip of the objective. Bellows or tubes can be had new for under $40 on Amazon which work well.

Because the depth of field is ever so shallow...thinner than a sheet of paper at times, a way of taking shot after shot as the camera advances from the closest point of the subject in focus (like the tip of a hair) to the furthest point of focus that you want seen sharp in the final image. This can be done manually, which is the way that I started, however having a digital motorized focus rail takes all the effort out of the process and it eliminates the need to touch the camera or to actuate the shutter as you sit there with the release or timer. This does all of the functions necessary and it can be controlled by a PC, Tablet or a Smartphone either wired or BlueTooth communication. If you consider venturing into high magnification macro/micro it will be the best investment you will ever make.

Lastly, is illumination which is ultimately important. We can use flash or constant lighting and I prefer constant lighting and I use the IKEA LED desk lamps and I use translucent plastic cups, tracing paper, packing foam, paper towels, writing paper, pieces of milk cartons, ping-pong balls, styrofoam cups and plateware, and an endless list of whatever I think will provide a diffused even lighting. I started out with flashes however I was getting thankyou letters from battery companies for all of the batteries I was buying. I went to studio strobes and they would overheat and poop out on me. These inexpensive LED lamps never cause a problem and they are highly maneuverable. I use three of them for my session.

I know that this is not for everyone however it is a great hobby for it can be done indoors regardless of the weather day or night and it is great for anyone that has mobility limitations that cannot enjoy being out and about with their camera in hand.

I've shared what I see through my magnified lenses through my focus stacking sessions in my posts on UHH and I wanted to take a moment to share how truely inexpensive magnified macro focus stacking can be and the results you can expect.

First, any interchangeable lens digital camera will do. Nothing special is required so you can even use an older one that you may still have. I use a little Fujifilm X-T20 APS-C size sensor camera for all my sessions now.

Next comes a lens, or better yet, a microscope objective. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the AmScope 4X Plan Achromatic Finite objective that sells for $22.00. It is what I used to produce the image of the flesh fly attached. It provides an ample working distance for illumination which is quite important with higher magnification work. When considering buying any microscope objective be sure to read the technical information regarding its working distance. Many compound microscope objectives have only a sliver of working distance between the end of the objective and the subject for they are intended for use with flat glass specimen slides which they will nearly touch it.

This is a 'finite' objective so all that is required is to extend it in some fashion (bellows, extension tubes, helicoid, etc.) to a distance of 160mm from the plain of the camera's sensor to the tip of the objective. Bellows or tubes can be had new for under $40 on Amazon which work well.

Because the depth of field is ever so shallow...thinner than a sheet of paper at times, a way of taking shot after shot as the camera advances from the closest point of the subject in focus (like the tip of a hair) to the furthest point of focus that you want seen sharp in the final image. This can be done manually, which is the way that I started, however having a digital motorized focus rail takes all the effort out of the process and it eliminates the need to touch the camera or to actuate the shutter as you sit there with the release or timer. This does all of the functions necessary and it can be controlled by a PC, Tablet or a Smartphone either wired or BlueTooth communication. If you consider venturing into high magnification macro/micro it will be the best investment you will ever make.

Lastly, is illumination which is ultimately important. We can use flash or constant lighting and I prefer constant lighting and I use the IKEA LED desk lamps and I use translucent plastic cups, tracing paper, packing foam, paper towels, writing paper, pieces of milk cartons, ping-pong balls, styrofoam cups and plateware, and an endless list of whatever I think will provide a diffused even lighting. I started out with flashes however I was getting thankyou letters from battery companies for all of the batteries I was buying. I went to studio strobes and they would overheat and poop out on me. These inexpensive LED lamps never cause a problem and they are highly maneuverable. I use three of them for my session.

I know that this is not for everyone however it is a great hobby for it can be done indoors regardless of the weather day or night and it is great for anyone that has mobility limitations that cannot enjoy being out and about with their camera in hand.

I've shared what I see through my magnified lenses through my focus stacking sessions in my posts on UHH and I wanted to take a moment to share how truely inexpensive magnified macro focus stacking can be and the results you can expect.

First, any interchangeable lens digital camera will do. Nothing special is required so you can even use an older one that you may still have. I use a little Fujifilm X-T20 APS-C size sensor camera for all my sessions now.

Next comes a lens, or better yet, a microscope objective. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the AmScope 4X Plan Achromatic Finite objective that sells for $22.00. It is what I used to produce the image of the flesh fly attached. It provides an ample working distance for illumination which is quite important with higher magnification work. When considering buying any microscope objective be sure to read the technical information regarding its working distance. Many compound microscope objectives have only a sliver of working distance between the end of the objective and the subject for they are intended for use with flat glass specimen slides which they will nearly touch it.

This is a 'finite' objective so all that is required is to extend it in some fashion (bellows, extension tubes, helicoid, etc.) to a distance of 160mm from the plain of the camera's sensor to the tip of the objective. Bellows or tubes can be had new for under $40 on Amazon which work well.

Because the depth of field is ever so shallow...thinner than a sheet of paper at times, a way of taking shot after shot as the camera advances from the closest point of the subject in focus (like the tip of a hair) to the furthest point of focus that you want seen sharp in the final image. This can be done manually, which is the way that I started, however having a digital motorized focus rail takes all the effort out of the process and it eliminates the need to touch the camera or to actuate the shutter as you sit there with the release or timer. This does all of the functions necessary and it can be controlled by a PC, Tablet or a Smartphone either wired or BlueTooth communication. If you consider venturing into high magnification macro/micro it will be the best investment you will ever make.

Lastly, is illumination which is ultimately important. We can use flash or constant lighting and I prefer constant lighting and I use the IKEA LED desk lamps and I use translucent plastic cups, tracing paper, packing foam, paper towels, writing paper, pieces of milk cartons, ping-pong balls, styrofoam cups and plateware, and an endless list of whatever I think will provide a diffused even lighting. I started out with flashes however I was getting thankyou letters from battery companies for all of the batteries I was buying. I went to studio strobes and they would overheat and poop out on me. These inexpensive LED lamps never cause a problem and they are highly maneuverable. I use three of them for my session.

I know that this is not for everyone however it is a great hobby for it can be done indoors regardless of the weather day or night and it is great for anyone that has mobility limitations that cannot enjoy being out and about with their camera in hand.

I've shared what I see through my magnified lenses through my focus stacking sessions in my posts on UHH and I wanted to take a moment to share how truely inexpensive magnified macro focus stacking can be and the results you can expect.

First, any interchangeable lens digital camera will do. Nothing special is required so you can even use an older one that you may still have. I use a little Fujifilm X-T20 APS-C size sensor camera for all my sessions now.

Next comes a lens, or better yet, a microscope objective. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the AmScope 4X Plan Achromatic Finite objective that sells for $22.00. It is what I used to produce the image of the flesh fly attached. It provides an ample working distance for illumination which is quite important with higher magnification work. When considering buying any microscope objective be sure to read the technical information regarding its working distance. Many compound microscope objectives have only a sliver of working distance between the end of the objective and the subject for they are intended for use with flat glass specimen slides which they will nearly touch it.

This is a 'finite' objective so all that is required is to extend it in some fashion (bellows, extension tubes, helicoid, etc.) to a distance of 160mm from the plain of the camera's sensor to the tip of the objective. Bellows or tubes can be had new for under $40 on Amazon which work well.

Because the depth of field is ever so shallow...thinner than a sheet of paper at times, a way of taking shot after shot as the camera advances from the closest point of the subject in focus (like the tip of a hair) to the furthest point of focus that you want seen sharp in the final image. This can be done manually, which is the way that I started, however having a digital motorized focus rail takes all the effort out of the process and it eliminates the need to touch the camera or to actuate the shutter as you sit there with the release or timer. This does all of the functions necessary and it can be controlled by a PC, Tablet or a Smartphone either wired or BlueTooth communication. If you consider venturing into high magnification macro/micro it will be the best investment you will ever make.

Lastly, is illumination which is ultimately important. We can use flash or constant lighting and I prefer constant lighting and I use the IKEA LED desk lamps and I use translucent plastic cups, tracing paper, packing foam, paper towels, writing paper, pieces of milk cartons, ping-pong balls, styrofoam cups and plateware, and an endless list of whatever I think will provide a diffused even lighting. I started out with flashes however I was getting thankyou letters from battery companies for all of the batteries I was buying. I went to studio strobes and they would overheat and poop out on me. These inexpensive LED lamps never cause a problem and they are highly maneuverable. I use three of them for my session.

I know that this is not for everyone however it is a great hobby for it can be done indoors regardless of the weather day or night and it is great for anyone that has mobility limitations that cannot enjoy being out and about with their camera in hand.