Image Help!!
Jan 31, 2021 15:55:36 #
47greyfox wrote:
That would be this, Paul.
Those AF targeting boxes are not ded accurate. You’ve loaded the AF frame with dark low contrast subject matter. The little bright spot on the neck might not actually be included at all. Under the circumstance the AF did a good job. The steadiness of the tripod and the state of AF fine adjustment are further concerns.
You should realize that your nonexistent DoF approximates a normal lens set to ~f:00.40. You lost at least two stops to “fear of high ISO noise”, a poorly chosen imbalance. If the camera can’t deliver a good looking ISO 500 or 640 you really should consider a newer one :-(
Jan 31, 2021 16:11:13 #
Bobspez wrote:
A little cropping and post processing produces a decent image at that range.
Very good, Bob. Especially for a file of only 830K.
Jan 31, 2021 16:16:04 #
User ID wrote:
Those AF targeting boxes are not ded accurate. You... (show quote)
Thanks. "New" is always a welcome suggestion. Ha! Since the eagle's nest is relatively close to where it landed. I'm heading out again tomorrow in the hopes of it still being around. ISO was set at AUTO, and set 125. I think my upper limit is set at 12800.
Jan 31, 2021 16:24:22 #
47greyfox wrote:
Very good, Bob. Especially for a file of only 830K.
Bob to the rescue :-)
But the need may have been avoidable.
Live and learn. BTW, with a perched bird, after a few shots with minimal fussing, if the bird lingers a while you could fuss a bit. Engage LV and use the MF magnifier. LV also cuts the effect of mirror motion. (Ask Paul about mirrors, lol.)
Jan 31, 2021 17:05:36 #
47greyfox wrote:
I went to a local lake this morning and spotted an... (show quote)
I don't see an issue here. The C improves considerably at F7.1 and F8. Your results on a crop camera are not at all unreasonable. Shooting this as a raw file would give you a few more options that you give up when you do jpegs.
This is an image that was taken with a D800 and a 600mm F4 1/2000, F5.6, ISO 200 as raw. First is the uncropped raw, unprocessed, then heavily cropped in LR with a little processing, then finished in Photoshop. It was about 200 yds away, but I can't be certain.
The Sigma C is a little less sharp than this lens, but I do get results that are similar to the 600F4 with a Sigma Sport. Perhaps your expectations are a little high for your setup. But the image shows nothing that is obviously wrong.
Jan 31, 2021 17:37:58 #
47greyfox wrote:
Thank you.Very good, Bob. Especially for a file of only 830K.
Jan 31, 2021 18:49:48 #
Another one of the many taken today, but with a little LR 5.7 help.
Jan 31, 2021 19:28:10 #
You mentioned you shot it in the morning - a time when the sun warms up the night-chilled ground and moisture rises into the air. Under those conditions, it is to be expected that distant objects will look a little soft.
Jan 31, 2021 20:02:17 #
47greyfox wrote:
Another one of the many taken today, but with a little LR 5.7 help.
Dumping the EXIF data from the newest image shows a number of LR default settings rather than a custom-edit of this image. As a start, consider the topics of sharpening and noise processing:
Basics of noise processing
Basics of Lightroom Sharpening
Feb 1, 2021 06:24:53 #
47greyfox wrote:
I went to a local lake this morning and spotted an... (show quote)
Its sharp enough considering the distance and the fact the bird is mostly underexposed.
Feb 1, 2021 06:33:11 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
47greyfox wrote:
I went to a local lake this morning and spotted an... (show quote)
If you were mounted on a tripod most lenses require you to turn off the IS. If the camera and lens are locked down and cannot move (much) the internal lenses will continue to move in an effort to maintain stillness inside the lens if IS is left on, this can contribute to a less than sharp image.
Feb 1, 2021 07:38:43 #
47greyfox wrote:
I went to a local lake this morning and spotted an... (show quote)
Your lens is at full stretch - try reducing to, say, 550. Up the shutter to 1000. Aperture to f8/f11. Auto ISO.
Feb 1, 2021 09:04:17 #
The full Photoshop has a filter named Shake Reduction. It detects the slight movement of the camera from its operation (like mirror slap). Then the filter corrects for this movement at the pixel level. In effect, this filter brings out the native sharpness of the lens. I use this filter on every photograph right after correcting for the midtone gray in the photograph.
47greyfox wrote:
I went to a local lake this morning and spotted an... (show quote)
Feb 1, 2021 09:15:53 #
Juy
Loc: Delaware
Note on Gene's post his shutter speed 2000 . your shooting a long way and the slightest vibration will give you a softness . up your shutter speed see if that improves for thise long shots. My two cents
Feb 1, 2021 09:50:46 #
This is an article about long lens photography by Moose Peterson. It covers all aspects of technique for shooting with long lens from a tripod. I found it useful in improving my own technique.
https://www.outdoorphotographer.com/tips-techniques/wildlife-techniques/long-lens-techniques/
https://www.outdoorphotographer.com/tips-techniques/wildlife-techniques/long-lens-techniques/
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