At a large commercial photo lab, 2000–2005, I managed all the digital printing on a dozen different kinds of devices. Here are a few bits of wisdom from that experience:
Inkjet printers thrive on frequent use. If you don’t intend to use one at least several times a month, consider using a lab or service bureau instead.
I’ve often advised that people buy inkjet printers primarily for these reasons:
> Ultimate control over the entire process
> Privacy/security of sensitive content
> Making LARGE prints
> Archival quality and print longevity — up to FIVE TIMES longer than silver halide technology
> Printing on special rag papers, canvas, art board, etc.
> Widest possible color gamut output
> Low volume (but frequent) usage
One should never expect to save money with an inkjet printer.It is my professional opinion and advice that no one consider printing photos without first using a calibration kit from X-Rite or Datacolor to precisely calibrate and profile their desktop computer monitor.When you buy a printer, it will use a printer driver — device driver software written to control that particular printer. Typically, on the Mac OS platform, the manufacturer sends all drivers to Apple, and Apple distributes them through software updates. I don't know what happens on Windows 10. I no longer print from Windows. However, your printer may come with a CD/DVD, or a link to the manufacturer's web site, where you can download the latest software.
OEM printer drivers COME WITH and INSTALL all the profiles for the papers recommended for each particular printer model. When you print, you choose the paper by name in the driver interface. That is really just activating an ICC profile, in addition to setting the printer for a particular thickness of paper.
Third party papers require their own profiles to be installed in your operating system, and the usual custom is to download them from the manufacturer or vendor website and install them according to simple instructions.
If you want What You See Is What You Print color:> Use a high quality desktop monitor. Very few laptop monitors are useful for color photo adjustment.
> Your monitor MUST be calibrated and profiled to an international standard. The monitor is your reference when adjusting images.
> Use OEM inks, OEM papers, and OEM profiles (in the driver software) to start.
> Use OEM inks, third party papers, and manufacturer-supplied profiles for each paper.
> Let the printer driver OR your software application control color, BUT NOT BOTH! "Double profiling" ruins color output, so when using third party papers, DISABLE the printer color management and let your imaging software match the profiles. When using OEM papers, you usually have a choice. Just make sure you choose only ONE.
Here's the color workflow for RAW:
> Camera saves raw data
> Computer OS or software provides a camera-specific profile. It processes the raw data to a bitmap image, using the raw profile to convert color to a "connection" or "working" color space profile (such as ProPhoto RGB). (A color "space" is the range or gamut of color saturation a device can display or contain.)
> Computer OS or software uses monitor profile to process the image FROM the working color space TO the monitor color space. You see that result. If your monitor is correctly calibrated and custom profiled, you see an accurate view of your file.
> At print time, computer OS or software uses printer/ink/paper-specific profile to process the image FROM the working color space TO the printer/ink/paper-specific color space.
> When exporting a processed image to an image file, the computer OS or software uses the output profile you specify to process the image FROM the working color space TO the chosen color space (sRGB for the Internet and most photo labs, Adobe RGB for some high-end service bureaus and offset print shops, or ProPhoto RGB for high end workflow in a studio).
Please note that none of my comments refer to the use of most small office/home office, NON-photo quality inkjet printers intended for plain paper documents. Those really shouldn’t be used if you want photo prints that last, or prints with great color.
Epson or Canon? Both make printers that yield great color. Both use the old Gillette razor company (and Kodak) marketing strategy — supply the printer (or camera) at or near cost, so you can make a fortune on the consumables!
Epson has been serving the pro photographer printer market a bit more intensely. They got a bit of a head start on HP and Canon. So yes, Epson is more well known among pros, when it comes to printers. But Canon is no slouch. They have a great line of both dye ink and pigment ink printers.
I don't know what your budget looks like, but you can get an idea of the costs by going to the manufacturer web sites:
Epson:
https://epson.com/For-Home/Printers/Photo/c/h120https://epson.com/For-Work/Printers/Photo/c/w120Be sure to use their ink finder page to check ink costs and calculate your cost per ml of ink!
Canon:
https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/list/professional-large-format-printers/professional-inkjet-printers/professional-inkjet-printersDon't rely on manufacturer web sites for anything more than retail costs. You can probably find printers like the Canon PIXMA PRO-100, a popular dye ink printer, on sale at B&H or Adorama for a LOT less than $500. They often bundle it with paper, ink, and a rebate that essentially makes the printer either free, or very affordable. Check Lexjet and similar inkjet supply vendors for third party consumable pricing.
At a large commercial photo lab, 2000–2005, I mana... (