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Starting to print
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May 20, 2019 11:47:04   #
TuG Loc: Ventura California
 
Thank you.
You have helped me figure out my print issue.
Gene H

Reply
May 20, 2019 12:00:26   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Thank you for your long description of printing for good results. It may sound daunting to others.

But as an experienced photographer who has set up his own printer operation and done quality printing (landscape and portraits) on custom papers from both Epson and third parties, I can attest that you have pretty much said it all in your text.

I can recommend that any person doing or proposing to do his own printing to copy and print out for reference your text here.

Thanks for taking the time to share your practical experience on this central subject in photography.
burkphoto wrote:
At a large commercial photo lab, 2000–2005, I managed all the digital printing on a dozen different kinds of devices. Here are a few bits of wisdom from that experience:

Inkjet printers thrive on frequent use. If you don’t intend to use one at least several times a month, consider using a lab or service bureau instead.

I’ve often advised that people buy inkjet printers primarily for these reasons:

> Ultimate control over the entire process

> Privacy/security of sensitive content

> Making LARGE prints

> Archival quality and print longevity — up to FIVE TIMES longer than silver halide technology

> Printing on special rag papers, canvas, art board, etc.

> Widest possible color gamut output

> Low volume (but frequent) usage

One should never expect to save money with an inkjet printer.

It is my professional opinion and advice that no one consider printing photos without first using a calibration kit from X-Rite or Datacolor to precisely calibrate and profile their desktop computer monitor.

When you buy a printer, it will use a printer driver — device driver software written to control that particular printer. Typically, on the Mac OS platform, the manufacturer sends all drivers to Apple, and Apple distributes them through software updates. I don't know what happens on Windows 10. I no longer print from Windows. However, your printer may come with a CD/DVD, or a link to the manufacturer's web site, where you can download the latest software.

OEM printer drivers COME WITH and INSTALL all the profiles for the papers recommended for each particular printer model. When you print, you choose the paper by name in the driver interface. That is really just activating an ICC profile, in addition to setting the printer for a particular thickness of paper.

Third party papers require their own profiles to be installed in your operating system, and the usual custom is to download them from the manufacturer or vendor website and install them according to simple instructions.

If you want What You See Is What You Print color:

> Use a high quality desktop monitor. Very few laptop monitors are useful for color photo adjustment.

> Your monitor MUST be calibrated and profiled to an international standard. The monitor is your reference when adjusting images.

> Use OEM inks, OEM papers, and OEM profiles (in the driver software) to start.

> Use OEM inks, third party papers, and manufacturer-supplied profiles for each paper.

> Let the printer driver OR your software application control color, BUT NOT BOTH! "Double profiling" ruins color output, so when using third party papers, DISABLE the printer color management and let your imaging software match the profiles. When using OEM papers, you usually have a choice. Just make sure you choose only ONE.

Here's the color workflow for RAW:

> Camera saves raw data

> Computer OS or software provides a camera-specific profile. It processes the raw data to a bitmap image, using the raw profile to convert color to a "connection" or "working" color space profile (such as ProPhoto RGB). (A color "space" is the range or gamut of color saturation a device can display or contain.)

> Computer OS or software uses monitor profile to process the image FROM the working color space TO the monitor color space. You see that result. If your monitor is correctly calibrated and custom profiled, you see an accurate view of your file.

> At print time, computer OS or software uses printer/ink/paper-specific profile to process the image FROM the working color space TO the printer/ink/paper-specific color space.

> When exporting a processed image to an image file, the computer OS or software uses the output profile you specify to process the image FROM the working color space TO the chosen color space (sRGB for the Internet and most photo labs, Adobe RGB for some high-end service bureaus and offset print shops, or ProPhoto RGB for high end workflow in a studio).

Please note that none of my comments refer to the use of most small office/home office, NON-photo quality inkjet printers intended for plain paper documents. Those really shouldn’t be used if you want photo prints that last, or prints with great color.

Epson or Canon?

Both make printers that yield great color. Both use the old Gillette razor company (and Kodak) marketing strategy — supply the printer (or camera) at or near cost, so you can make a fortune on the consumables!

Epson has been serving the pro photographer printer market a bit more intensely. They got a bit of a head start on HP and Canon. So yes, Epson is more well known among pros, when it comes to printers. But Canon is no slouch. They have a great line of both dye ink and pigment ink printers.

I don't know what your budget looks like, but you can get an idea of the costs by going to the manufacturer web sites:

Epson:

https://epson.com/For-Home/Printers/Photo/c/h120
https://epson.com/For-Work/Printers/Photo/c/w120

Be sure to use their ink finder page to check ink costs and calculate your cost per ml of ink!

Canon:

https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/list/professional-large-format-printers/professional-inkjet-printers/professional-inkjet-printers

Don't rely on manufacturer web sites for anything more than retail costs. You can probably find printers like the Canon PIXMA PRO-100, a popular dye ink printer, on sale at B&H or Adorama for a LOT less than $500. They often bundle it with paper, ink, and a rebate that essentially makes the printer either free, or very affordable. Check Lexjet and similar inkjet supply vendors for third party consumable pricing.
At a large commercial photo lab, 2000–2005, I mana... (show quote)

Reply
May 20, 2019 12:09:20   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
anotherview wrote:
Thank you for your long description of printing for good results. It may sound daunting to others.

But as an experienced photographer who has set up his own printer operation and done quality printing (landscape and portraits) on custom papers from both Epson and third parties, I can attest that you have pretty much said it all in your text.

I can recommend that any person doing or proposing to do his own printing to copy and print out for reference your text here.

Thanks for taking the time to share your practical experience on this central subject in photography.
Thank you for your long description of printing fo... (show quote)


You're welcome! I had input from some of the best digital imaging minds in the industry back in the late 1990s through 2010 or so. ICC color management practices are really what made high quality digital imaging possible. The work of countless engineers, photographers, developers, and suppliers made it happen.

I got to witness the digital revolution at DIMA conferences (Digital Imaging Marketing Association, once part of the now-defunct Photo Marketing Association International) and at Kodak Professional Imaging Conferences (before they went "belly up"). The key folks who made it happen were all there, and taught us how to make it work.

Reply
 
 
May 20, 2019 13:01:41   #
dick ranez
 
IF you're just starting out, I can recommend the Canon Pixma Pro 100- not only does it produce excellent prints up to 13x19, it is a frequent promo item with purchase of a Canon camera. I've got two of them and paid about $50 each after a annoying rebate procedure. Anyway - look at your local Craig's list for one that has been purchased with a camera and the buyer doesn't want/need the printer. Should be about $100-$150 in a sealed box (missing the UPC code for the rebate). Excellent color, expensive ink but reasonable capacity, can print on cd/dvd and good software support in photoshop, illustrator etc.

Reply
May 20, 2019 13:20:02   #
Fredrick Loc: Former NYC, now San Francisco Bay Area
 
burkphoto wrote:
At a large commercial photo lab, 2000–2005, I managed all the digital printing on a dozen different kinds of devices. Here are a few bits of wisdom from that experience:

Inkjet printers thrive on frequent use. If you don’t intend to use one at least several times a month, consider using a lab or service bureau instead.

I’ve often advised that people buy inkjet printers primarily for these reasons:

> Ultimate control over the entire process

> Privacy/security of sensitive content

> Making LARGE prints

> Archival quality and print longevity — up to FIVE TIMES longer than silver halide technology

> Printing on special rag papers, canvas, art board, etc.

> Widest possible color gamut output

> Low volume (but frequent) usage

One should never expect to save money with an inkjet printer.

It is my professional opinion and advice that no one consider printing photos without first using a calibration kit from X-Rite or Datacolor to precisely calibrate and profile their desktop computer monitor.

When you buy a printer, it will use a printer driver — device driver software written to control that particular printer. Typically, on the Mac OS platform, the manufacturer sends all drivers to Apple, and Apple distributes them through software updates. I don't know what happens on Windows 10. I no longer print from Windows. However, your printer may come with a CD/DVD, or a link to the manufacturer's web site, where you can download the latest software.

OEM printer drivers COME WITH and INSTALL all the profiles for the papers recommended for each particular printer model. When you print, you choose the paper by name in the driver interface. That is really just activating an ICC profile, in addition to setting the printer for a particular thickness of paper.

Third party papers require their own profiles to be installed in your operating system, and the usual custom is to download them from the manufacturer or vendor website and install them according to simple instructions.

If you want What You See Is What You Print color:

> Use a high quality desktop monitor. Very few laptop monitors are useful for color photo adjustment.

> Your monitor MUST be calibrated and profiled to an international standard. The monitor is your reference when adjusting images.

> Use OEM inks, OEM papers, and OEM profiles (in the driver software) to start.

> Use OEM inks, third party papers, and manufacturer-supplied profiles for each paper.

> Let the printer driver OR your software application control color, BUT NOT BOTH! "Double profiling" ruins color output, so when using third party papers, DISABLE the printer color management and let your imaging software match the profiles. When using OEM papers, you usually have a choice. Just make sure you choose only ONE.

Here's the color workflow for RAW:

> Camera saves raw data

> Computer OS or software provides a camera-specific profile. It processes the raw data to a bitmap image, using the raw profile to convert color to a "connection" or "working" color space profile (such as ProPhoto RGB). (A color "space" is the range or gamut of color saturation a device can display or contain.)

> Computer OS or software uses monitor profile to process the image FROM the working color space TO the monitor color space. You see that result. If your monitor is correctly calibrated and custom profiled, you see an accurate view of your file.

> At print time, computer OS or software uses printer/ink/paper-specific profile to process the image FROM the working color space TO the printer/ink/paper-specific color space.

> When exporting a processed image to an image file, the computer OS or software uses the output profile you specify to process the image FROM the working color space TO the chosen color space (sRGB for the Internet and most photo labs, Adobe RGB for some high-end service bureaus and offset print shops, or ProPhoto RGB for high end workflow in a studio).

Please note that none of my comments refer to the use of most small office/home office, NON-photo quality inkjet printers intended for plain paper documents. Those really shouldn’t be used if you want photo prints that last, or prints with great color.

Epson or Canon?

Both make printers that yield great color. Both use the old Gillette razor company (and Kodak) marketing strategy — supply the printer (or camera) at or near cost, so you can make a fortune on the consumables!

Epson has been serving the pro photographer printer market a bit more intensely. They got a bit of a head start on HP and Canon. So yes, Epson is more well known among pros, when it comes to printers. But Canon is no slouch. They have a great line of both dye ink and pigment ink printers.

I don't know what your budget looks like, but you can get an idea of the costs by going to the manufacturer web sites:

Epson:

https://epson.com/For-Home/Printers/Photo/c/h120
https://epson.com/For-Work/Printers/Photo/c/w120

Be sure to use their ink finder page to check ink costs and calculate your cost per ml of ink!

Canon:

https://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/list/professional-large-format-printers/professional-inkjet-printers/professional-inkjet-printers

Don't rely on manufacturer web sites for anything more than retail costs. You can probably find printers like the Canon PIXMA PRO-100, a popular dye ink printer, on sale at B&H or Adorama for a LOT less than $500. They often bundle it with paper, ink, and a rebate that essentially makes the printer either free, or very affordable. Check Lexjet and similar inkjet supply vendors for third party consumable pricing.
At a large commercial photo lab, 2000–2005, I mana... (show quote)


What a great post, Bill. Thank you for sharing all this information with us!

Reply
May 20, 2019 13:30:52   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Your personal involvement in the digital printing method gives you the voice of experience. It's like history talking to us. I thank you again, and others should, too. We owe it to those individuals who went before us to bridge photography from film to the digital age, printing and display included.
burkphoto wrote:
You're welcome! I had input from some of the best digital imaging minds in the industry back in the late 1990s through 2010 or so. ICC color management practices are really what made high quality digital imaging possible. The work of countless engineers, photographers, developers, and suppliers made it happen.

I got to witness the digital revolution at DIMA conferences (Digital Imaging Marketing Association, once part of the now-defunct Photo Marketing Association International) and at Kodak Professional Imaging Conferences (before they went "belly up"). The key folks who made it happen were all there, and taught us how to make it work.
You're welcome! I had input from some of the best ... (show quote)

Reply
May 20, 2019 13:37:44   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
will47 wrote:
I am considering starting to print. The research I have done so far leads me to believe I will use either Epsom or Canon. Specific models would be helpful, but I have another question about these printers. If I use either of these, and if I only use that manufacturers printing paper do I need to be concerned about printing profiles? I use PC CC and only shoot in RAW. Some black and white conversion photo's and all Canon equipment.


I have printed all of my photographs for several years now, many of which go into shows and win awards. I only go to an outside printer if I need a very large print. There is an art to printing your own work. I use Epson but I'm sure there are other printers that do an equally good job of laying down ink. I ALWAYS use the correct ICC profile for the paper I am using. I do use paper from other manufacturers, mostly Red River, and when I do that I download the correct ICC profile from the Red River website. One thing that might be good for you to do, especially in the beginning, is to load smaller paper, for example, 4 x 6 paper, and print on that as a proof copy. Then you can make corrections as needed. Additionally, you might consider using the print proofing option in whatever software you use; this allows you to determine out of gamut colors for specific papers and to see what each paper does to the image. Fewer surprises this way. Paper can make a huge difference in the end result. And, it's important to understand printing sizes and how the printed size will fit the mat of your choice. Just my thoughts on the subject.

Reply
 
 
May 20, 2019 13:38:54   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
will47 wrote:
I am considering starting to print. The research I have done so far leads me to believe I will use either Epsom or Canon. Specific models would be helpful, but I have another question about these printers. If I use either of these, and if I only use that manufacturers printing paper do I need to be concerned about printing profiles? I use PC CC and only shoot in RAW. Some black and white conversion photo's and all Canon equipment.


No, with uploading the printer driver to the computer, it's already in there! The printer will recognize the "in-house" profiles automatically!
Keeping up with current updates, this will be true for future papers as well!

Reply
May 20, 2019 18:17:32   #
jdedmonds
 
will47 wrote:
I am considering starting to print. The research I have done so far leads me to believe I will use either Epsom or Canon. Specific models would be helpful, but I have another question about these printers. If I use either of these, and if I only use that manufacturers printing paper do I need to be concerned about printing profiles? I use PC CC and only shoot in RAW. Some black and white conversion photo's and all Canon equipment.


Epson P800, but beware that each of the nine carts costs $55.00.

Reply
May 20, 2019 19:41:07   #
Goldyrock
 
Just remember, if you plan on selling your work, third party inks do not have the longevity of OEM. Fading may occur sooner with third party inks. Having said that, frame it under glass, and use a protective spray.
Get on Jose Rodriguez's website. He does testing with Precision Color inks that are made in the US. Probably the best third party inks for the Canon Pro-100. They just came out with a new formula. which Jose is testing this week. The owner of the company provides ICC profiles for numerous papers. stay tuned. You have to do your own refilling, and buy cheap $6 carts.

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