Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Nikon lens for ES-2 Film Digitizing Adapter
Page 1 of 2 next>
Sep 3, 2020 14:59:04   #
nakabayashi
 
I have D850 and am interested in the adapter. Is there anyone using the adapter? I am wondering what lens to go with this adapter.

Reply
Sep 3, 2020 15:30:12   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
Link https://camerajabber.com/nikon-es-2-film-digitizing-adapter-review/

Reply
Sep 3, 2020 17:14:14   #
nakabayashi
 
quixdraw:
Thank you for very informative link.

Reply
 
 
Sep 3, 2020 17:16:33   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
nakabayashi wrote:
quixdraw:
Thank you for very informative link.



Reply
Sep 4, 2020 05:51:52   #
cameraf4 Loc: Delaware
 
nakabayashi wrote:
I have D850 and am interested in the adapter. Is there anyone using the adapter? I am wondering what lens to go with this adapter.


My experiences here;

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-534400-1.html

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 11:10:11   #
JeffDavidson Loc: Originally Detroit Now Los Angeles
 
I have used it quite successfully for both negatives and slides.

I use the Nikon 60mm macro lens which is recommended.

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 11:14:37   #
Bananapuppy Loc: Sunny Tucson, AZ
 
nakabayashi wrote:
I have D850 and am interested in the adapter. Is there anyone using the adapter? I am wondering what lens to go with this adapter.


I also have a D850, but I use the ES-1 adapter. Basically the same as ES-2 but no slide/film holder, slides only. The recommended lens is the Micro-Nikkor 40mm f2.8. I use it for slides and it works very well. The results are magnifique! Bp

Reply
 
 
Sep 4, 2020 11:32:01   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
nakabayashi wrote:
I have D850 and am interested in the adapter. Is there anyone using the adapter? I am wondering what lens to go with this adapter.


I have this system. The ES-2 is intended for the 60mm macro on a full frame camera like the D850. The intended lens with DX cameras is the 40mm macro. There is some capability to juggle the connecting segments, but I have not experimented with other lenses. These are the lenses for which it is intended.

I had always used the 105mm f2.8 Micro lens for general macro work, and still do. But I am finding the 60mm to be more convenient for copy work...much more convenient working distances for typical sizes of paper.

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 11:35:02   #
Bananapuppy Loc: Sunny Tucson, AZ
 
larryepage wrote:
I have this system. The ES-2 is intended for the 60mm macro on a full frame camera like the D850. The intended lens with DX cameras is the 40mm macro. There is some capability to juggle the connecting segments, but I have not experimented with other lenses. These are the lenses for which it is intended.

I had always used the 105mm f2.8 Micro lens for general macro work, and still do. But I am finding the 60mm to be more convenient for copy work...much more convenient working distances for typical sizes of paper.
I have this system. The ES-2 is intended for the ... (show quote)


Thinking about it, I did purchase the 40mm Micro-Nikkor when I had a D7200. You are correct Larry. Thank you for the post. But the 40mm does work well with my D850 also! Bp

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 12:03:18   #
eardoc
 
I posted this recently. It may help you with your ES-2.

Here's my recipe using a Nikon D850, Nikkor 60mm micro, Nikon ES-2 slide/film copier:

1. Mount the camera + ES2 adapter on a mini-tripod (or regular tripod).

2. For the 60 mm micro lens, clean the front and rear elements of the lens (use your usual cleaning method). Remove any filters and screw on the "thin" spacer that comes with the ES-2. If you are using a DX camera body, such as Nikon D500, use the "thicker" spacer and a 40 mm lens.

3. For the light source, I use a Lume Cube mounted on a mini-tripod (or regular tripod). The Lume Cube produces daylight (around 5000 K). Adjust the lume cube brightness to 8 or 9 and shine onto the ES-2. Add the white diffuser to the Lume Cube to diffuse the light.

3. Camera settings (these are for the Nikon D850)
a. Manual mode with white balance set to daylight. (Change the white balance to match your light source).
b. F-stop = F8
c. ISO = set to 64 (or your the lowest ISO setting that your camera has). Do not use auto ISO.
d. Autofocus: you can use this or use manual focus. For autofocus, move the red box to the eyes, etc. You
can enlarge the image and check the focus with the + button, left side and then to normal with - button.
e. Shutter speed: will depend on your light source
f. Shoot in RAW. You will have more control in post processing. You may shoot jpegs as well, but less
control.
f. Flip up the LCD screen 90 degrees
g. Use Live View to adjust the image (fill the frame and level the horizontal axis)
h. Adjust the light meter to "0" EV or whatever you want your exposure to be. Remember, the light meter is
going to adjust to 18% neutral gray. You may want more or less exposure depending on your image.
Try different light meter settings until you have what you want. You can always fine adjust in post
processing.

4. Prepare the slide (or film negative):
a. Brush off large dust particle, then use a blower to blow off the smaller dust particles.
b. Place the slide (or film negative) into the appropriate ES-2 holder with the emulsion side toward the lens.
The image with be flipped horizontally. You correct this in post processing software.

5. Adjust the view on the LCD:
a. Zoom in and out with the ES-2 to fill the frame and adjust the horizontal. Tighten down the ES-2 knob
once you have what you want to prevent the ES-2 from inadvertently sliding.
b. Focus the image using autofocus or manual focus, your choice.
c. Turn off Live View. Depress the shutter or use a shutter release cable. Your choice.
d. Review the image, make any necessary adjustments in focus, etc. Retake the image.

6. For more advanced users, the D850 allows you to upload Picture Control Settings. For instance, you can
create a Picture Control on your desktop to automatically flip the image 180 degrees horizontally,
automatically change a negative into a positive, or a change a color image into a monochrome.

It sounds complicated but works very well. Like everything in life, it helps to have the proper equipment. You end up with a large file in RAW that can be enhanced to look better than your original image. I use the technique primarily for a few images that I want to digitize and have printed on metal or glass.

If you want to digitize a lot of images, consider using a scanner such as the Epson V600, etc. Enjoy!

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 12:32:01   #
russraman Loc: New York City
 
Excellent instructions, eardoc... Just what I needed. My only other question is what’s the best way to remove wax from a pair of 63 year old ears?

eardoc wrote:
I posted this recently. It may help you with your ES-2.

Here's my recipe using a Nikon D850, Nikkor 60mm micro, Nikon ES-2 slide/film copier:

1. Mount the camera + ES2 adapter on a mini-tripod (or regular tripod).

2. For the 60 mm micro lens, clean the front and rear elements of the lens (use your usual cleaning method). Remove any filters and screw on the "thin" spacer that comes with the ES-2. If you are using a DX camera body, such as Nikon D500, use the "thicker" spacer and a 40 mm lens.

3. For the light source, I use a Lume Cube mounted on a mini-tripod (or regular tripod). The Lume Cube produces daylight (around 5000 K). Adjust the lume cube brightness to 8 or 9 and shine onto the ES-2. Add the white diffuser to the Lume Cube to diffuse the light.

3. Camera settings (these are for the Nikon D850)
a. Manual mode with white balance set to daylight. (Change the white balance to match your light source).
b. F-stop = F8
c. ISO = set to 64 (or your the lowest ISO setting that your camera has). Do not use auto ISO.
d. Autofocus: you can use this or use manual focus. For autofocus, move the red box to the eyes, etc. You
can enlarge the image and check the focus with the + button, left side and then to normal with - button.
e. Shutter speed: will depend on your light source
f. Shoot in RAW. You will have more control in post processing. You may shoot jpegs as well, but less
control.
f. Flip up the LCD screen 90 degrees
g. Use Live View to adjust the image (fill the frame and level the horizontal axis)
h. Adjust the light meter to "0" EV or whatever you want your exposure to be. Remember, the light meter is
going to adjust to 18% neutral gray. You may want more or less exposure depending on your image.
Try different light meter settings until you have what you want. You can always fine adjust in post
processing.

4. Prepare the slide (or film negative):
a. Brush off large dust particle, then use a blower to blow off the smaller dust particles.
b. Place the slide (or film negative) into the appropriate ES-2 holder with the emulsion side toward the lens.
The image with be flipped horizontally. You correct this in post processing software.

5. Adjust the view on the LCD:
a. Zoom in and out with the ES-2 to fill the frame and adjust the horizontal. Tighten down the ES-2 knob
once you have what you want to prevent the ES-2 from inadvertently sliding.
b. Focus the image using autofocus or manual focus, your choice.
c. Turn off Live View. Depress the shutter or use a shutter release cable. Your choice.
d. Review the image, make any necessary adjustments in focus, etc. Retake the image.

6. For more advanced users, the D850 allows you to upload Picture Control Settings. For instance, you can
create a Picture Control on your desktop to automatically flip the image 180 degrees horizontally,
automatically change a negative into a positive, or a change a color image into a monochrome.

It sounds complicated but works very well. Like everything in life, it helps to have the proper equipment. You end up with a large file in RAW that can be enhanced to look better than your original image. I use the technique primarily for a few images that I want to digitize and have printed on metal or glass.

If you want to digitize a lot of images, consider using a scanner such as the Epson V600, etc. Enjoy!
I posted this recently. It may help you with your ... (show quote)

Reply
 
 
Sep 4, 2020 12:45:04   #
romanmel7 Loc: New Hartford, NY
 
Professionally, I use a Nikon D300 body with a Sigma 105mm f2.8 macro lens. What is the downside to using a 105mm lens with this system?

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 12:55:38   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
romanmel7 wrote:
Professionally, I use a Nikon D300 body with a Sigma 105mm f2.8 macro lens. What is the downside to using a 105mm lens with this system?


The attachment tubes are not long enough to avoid cropping your slide pretty severely. I haven't tried it, but suspect that the distance might be inside the minimum focusing distance of the lens.

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 13:00:13   #
eardoc
 
Visit your ear doc.

Reply
Sep 4, 2020 13:02:55   #
romanmel7 Loc: New Hartford, NY
 
Got it. Thanks!

Reply
Page 1 of 2 next>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.