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Pictures are not sharp - look like they have noise even in the sky
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Jun 20, 2018 11:58:10   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
When I have lots of blue sky, I enlarge to 200% in RAW and quite often I can see noise. If I do, I make a few adjustments to minimize it. I first noticed the noise when I showed some photos on my TV but you can clear it up in post.

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Jun 20, 2018 12:38:42   #
tomcat
 
One thing everybody has missed is your f/stop. f/8 is very close to a diffraction problem with this camera. So unless you absolutely need the DOF with f/8, then drop back to f/5.6. My D750 stays at f/5.6 99.9% of the time unless I need to decrease for a portrait. My suggestion is to return at a different time of day when the air is less humid and shoot the same scene at f/5.6. With that long bridge you're not going to get enough DOF unless you shoot at f/512 ( ;) )

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Jun 20, 2018 12:39:44   #
drklrd Loc: Cincinnati Ohio
 
I would like to know what ISO is being used before I figure it out as well as the aperture. In auto ISO chances at the shutter speed mentioned the ISO may be at its upper limits causing some noise. We all know that high ISO will give some noise. I am sorry to say not all info was given by the OP. in the opening statement. Some of the haze seen is also normal city haze which using Photoshop haze remover helps get rid of it.

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Jun 20, 2018 12:49:40   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
tomcat wrote:
One thing everybody has missed is your f/stop. f/8 is very close to a diffraction problem with this camera. So unless you absolutely need the DOF with f/8, then drop back to f/5.6. My D750 stays at f/5.6 99.9% of the time unless I need to decrease for a portrait. My suggestion is to return at a different time of day when the air is less humid and shoot the same scene at f/5.6. With that long bridge you're not going to get enough DOF unless you shoot at f/512 ( ;) )

I don't think to any diffraction is creeping in at f/8.

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Jun 20, 2018 12:54:01   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
drklrd wrote:
I would like to know what ISO is being used before I figure it out as well as the aperture. In auto ISO chances at the shutter speed mentioned the ISO may be at its upper limits causing some noise. We all know that high ISO will give some noise. I am sorry to say not all info was given by the OP. in the opening statement. Some of the haze seen is also normal city haze which using Photoshop haze remover helps get rid of it.

All the info is there if you look at the EXIF information contained in each of the images. The ISO for all three images was low, the aperture used for all three images was f/8, and the shutter speed varied.

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Jun 20, 2018 13:00:41   #
tomcat
 
mwsilvers wrote:
I don't think to any diffraction is creeping in at f/8.


Nikon says it can and shows pictures in the manual to prove their point.

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Jun 20, 2018 13:31:20   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
mwsilvers wrote:
While a primer on the exposure triangle is always welcome, his ISO was not high and he was shooting in manual mode. Did you check the EXIF information from his images? The issue here was simply atmospheric haze.


ISO 1600 is high enough to cause the problem in that light and in the areas of the photo in which the art effects appear prominently. The problem is NOT atmospheric haze. Haze will not cause art effects, although it is an area were they tend to manifest themselves more prominently.

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Jun 20, 2018 13:31:23   #
Mike Fos Loc: Powhatan Virginia
 
I keep hearing about "noise" in pictures. What is "noise"? Your pictures look good to me. The one along the bridge guardrail is out of focus near the camera, but that is a depth of field issue. The more distance areas look good.

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Jun 20, 2018 13:33:36   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
tomcat wrote:
Nikon says it can and shows pictures in the manual to prove their point.

I'm not at home and don't have an EXIF viewer on my phone so I don't know what lenses he was shooting. But I do know in general that for most, but certainly not all lenses, the sweet spot is usually around 2 stops from wide open. On fast f/1.4 primes that would be around f/4. On slower f/4 lenses it will usually be between f/5.6 and f/8. And on even slower lenses, between f/8 to f/11. I have not seen the information that you refer to, but I have never read anything that suggests that good quality lenses start to diffract at f/8.

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Jun 20, 2018 13:36:23   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Mike Fos wrote:
I keep hearing about "noise" in pictures. What is "noise"? Your pictures look good to me. The one along the bridge guardrail is out of focus near the camera, but that is a depth of field issue. The more distance areas look good.


"Noise" or "art effects" manifest themselves as the digital equivalent of grain in film. It is actually like static on a radio signal. Sophisticated radios have circuits that can reduce the sensitivity below the noise level and thereby increase sound quality. In the case of a camera sensor, it is also random electrical noise that is below the threshold of detection when the sensor is recording at low sensitivity. As the ISO (sensitivity of the sensor) is increased, the noise that is present is amplified along with wanted information to the point where it becomes visible in the photograph. Like the radio, reducing the sensitivity (ISO) will raise the signal (picture) above the noise level. Technically this is called a signal to noise ratio (S/N).

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Jun 20, 2018 13:38:04   #
tomcat
 
mwsilvers wrote:
I'm not at home and don't have an EXIF viewer on my phone so I don't know what lenses he was shooting. But I do know in general that for most, but certainly not all lenses, the sweet spot is usually around 2 stops from wide open. On fast f/1.4 primes that would be around f/4. On slower f/4 lenses it will usually be between f/5.6 and f/8. And on even slower lenses, between f/8 to f/11. I have not seen the information that you refer to, but I have never read anything that suggests that good quality lenses start to diffract at f/8.
I'm not at home and don't have an EXIF viewer on m... (show quote)


The Nikon owner's manual

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Jun 20, 2018 13:47:27   #
MichaelStacy
 
I was not using a UV filter.

Question: I use LR 5.7 which doesn't have dehaze. I do have the old google NIK collection. Would I get the 'dehaze' effect using color efex pro 4?

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Jun 20, 2018 13:51:01   #
Mike Fos Loc: Powhatan Virginia
 
Thank you on the noise question. I am kind of new to digital photography.

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Jun 20, 2018 15:01:37   #
Delderby Loc: Derby UK
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
Color Efex doesn't have a dedicated de-haze filter. For the below, I used a couple of doses of contrast color range, one of detail extractor + levels, curves (in Nik). For the second one, I included some selective brightening/darkening in PS Elements (yes, I was sloppy in not masking out the contrast color filter efex from the red sail )

Below is a link to a series of short, well produced videos on all the Color Efex filters. Note they are listed alphabetically and to go to the additional pages, you have to scroll back up to the top and click on the page number.

http://ketteringsnappers.freeforums.net/thread/169/nik-software-colour-efex-1-
Color Efex doesn't have a dedicated de-haze filter... (show quote)


Excellent work Linda - I am impressed.

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Jun 20, 2018 15:03:02   #
Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington
 
Delderby wrote:
Excellent work Linda - I am impressed.
Many others are far more adept than I, but thanks! I paid $250 for the Nik Suite (less than some folks, more than when it became free, lol). But have gotten my money's worth many times over.

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