When I shoot Hummingbirds, I set my camera at ISO400-640, f/5.6 or if my lens will do it f/4.0 and keep an eye on my shutter speed. I use aperture priority and adjust my ISO to keep my shutter speed up to at least 1/1600th in bright areas or full sun. If the bird is sitting I can make an adjustment to a lower ISO and maybe a shutter of 1/800th. You have to learn how to change your ISO fast without looking at your camera.

Don't bother shooting birds in shaded areas unless you have a camera mounted flash. Only focus on shooting those that are in full sun. If you find a location that has hummers that isn't in full sun, mount a flash on your camera. You can't completely freeze the wings at 1/200th with flash, but you will get some pretty nice pics with some motion blur on the wings. You may have to bring your ISO up quite a lot if you are shooting in shaded areas. Use a quality flash that has the option of using HSS (High Speed Sync) I was with a friend that bought a cheap flash and it would only flash at the cameras max sync speed and the batteries didn't last very long either.********************************************************************************************************************************

AF generally picks the closest object except on the more advanced bodies where you can set it to hold on to a subject even through short intrusions.
I use center point focus 75% of the time. Sometimes I will focus on the feeder/flower in manual and just wait for the bird to enter the focus field. That is one of the old pre AF tricks, it takes a lot of waiting and missed shots when the bird is just outside the pre focus area. Some of my best BIF shots (Egret and Osprey) were done that way with a 6D. All the "experts" will tell you the 6D can't do BIF or action, but by using (first you have to know them) the pre AF tricks that worked for a long time you can do it.

When I shoot Hummingbirds, I set my camera at ISO400-640, f/5.6 or if my lens will do it f/4.0 and keep an eye on my shutter speed. I use aperture priority and adjust my ISO to keep my shutter speed up to at least 1/1600th in bright areas or full sun. If the bird is sitting I can make an adjustment to a lower ISO and maybe a shutter of 1/800th. You have to learn how to change your ISO fast without looking at your camera.

Don't bother shooting birds in shaded areas unless you have a camera mounted flash. Only focus on shooting those that are in full sun. If you find a location that has hummers that isn't in full sun, mount a flash on your camera. You can't completely freeze the wings at 1/200th with flash, but you will get some pretty nice pics with some motion blur on the wings. You may have to bring your ISO up quite a lot if you are shooting in shaded areas. Use a quality flash that has the option of using HSS (High Speed Sync) I was with a friend that bought a cheap flash and it would only flash at the cameras max sync speed and the batteries didn't last very long either.********************************************************************************************************************************

When I shoot Hummingbirds, I set my camera at ISO400-640, f/5.6 or if my lens will do it f/4.0 and keep an eye on my shutter speed. I use aperture priority and adjust my ISO to keep my shutter speed up to at least 1/1600th in bright areas or full sun. If the bird is sitting I can make an adjustment to a lower ISO and maybe a shutter of 1/800th. You have to learn how to change your ISO fast without looking at your camera.

Don't bother shooting birds in shaded areas unless you have a camera mounted flash. Only focus on shooting those that are in full sun. If you find a location that has hummers that isn't in full sun, mount a flash on your camera. You can't completely freeze the wings at 1/200th with flash, but you will get some pretty nice pics with some motion blur on the wings. You may have to bring your ISO up quite a lot if you are shooting in shaded areas. Use a quality flash that has the option of using HSS (High Speed Sync) I was with a friend that bought a cheap flash and it would only flash at the cameras max sync speed and the batteries didn't last very long either.********************************************************************************************************************************

You will need 1000th to 2000th of a second depending on how much motion you want to show. I have had good results from 640 to 1250th of a second most of the time. The Ruby throats we have in the east average 60 to 80 wing beats per second and the males can hit 200 wbs during their courtship display. They are amazing creations, to think a little bird that weighs 3oz can fly none stop across the gulf to get to central america an 8 hr trip that's about 2,000,000 wing beats without eating. That's only one part of what may be a 2000 mile journey.

When I shoot Hummingbirds, I set my camera at ISO400-640, f/5.6 or if my lens will do it f/4.0 and keep an eye on my shutter speed. I use aperture priority and adjust my ISO to keep my shutter speed up to at least 1/1600th in bright areas or full sun. If the bird is sitting I can make an adjustment to a lower ISO and maybe a shutter of 1/800th. You have to learn how to change your ISO fast without looking at your camera.

Don't bother shooting birds in shaded areas unless you have a camera mounted flash. Only focus on shooting those that are in full sun. If you find a location that has hummers that isn't in full sun, mount a flash on your camera. You can't completely freeze the wings at 1/200th with flash, but you will get some pretty nice pics with some motion blur on the wings. You may have to bring your ISO up quite a lot if you are shooting in shaded areas. Use a quality flash that has the option of using HSS (High Speed Sync) I was with a friend that bought a cheap flash and it would only flash at the cameras max sync speed and the batteries didn't last very long either.********************************************************************************************************************************