Crop frame camera with full frame lens (Page 3): I seems that would be similar to using a full frame camera in DX mode, which would give the narrower field of view.

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

JPringle wrote:

OK - so what if you tape over the front element to make a rectangle to let the light in, of the same FF with a telephoto, to give you the framing of a crop sensor. Would that make a theoretical difference??

I seems that would be similar to using a full frame camera in DX mode, which would give the narrower field of view.

JPringle Loc: Australia

JohnSwanda wrote:

I seems that would be similar to using a full frame camera in DX mode, which would give the narrower field of view.

OK - You've sort of lost me with that one, just cannot see the logic when nothing changes but a bit of tape restricting your view through the lens and you need to deal with more camera shake?? Bit too circular (pun??) for me.

The pixel density comment has a bit of merit to me though (theoretically)!! And practically, the magnification of the print seems a good point, even it assumes all shots have some camera shake, which on reflection makes some sense.

Thanks. I guess my curiosity is that even though I've heard of the 'rule', its just never occurred to me to apply it. Phil

chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY

Bruce Moore wrote:

Camera Shake.
I know that to avoid camera shake I need a shutter speed at least equal to my focal length. Because of the crop factor when mixing EFS Canon camera with full frame lens, I don't know whether I should match the lenses stated length eg 300 or the 480 because of the crop sensor. Any advice would be appreciated.

That's a starting point, then with VR or IS you could get another 2-5 stops, but keeping in mind what your objectives are (freeze motion or pan with some motion blur or it doesn't matter - still object or subject), so that will determine the ultimate shutter speed or whether you need a tripod or monopod.

jackpinoh Loc: Kettering, OH 45419

CO wrote:

The minimum shutter speed should be 1/(focal length times crop factor). So you should have a minimum shutter speed of 1/480 second with the 300mm lens.

woodyH

That formula is meant to put camera motion under control, and written before Image Stabilization was built into most systems. The smaller the sensor, the greater the image must be enlarged to produce the same size print, and consequently the greater the blur from motion is enlarged. Camera motion is treated with IS, but subject motion can only be treated with a combination of larger sensor size and higher shutter speed. Start with the highest shutter speed your gear can provide— this will probably demand a higher ISO number, which in turns reduces potential sharpness of the sensor. Experiment with reducing shutter speeds and lower ISO numbers to determine the combination that looks right to you.

JPringle Loc: Australia

Bruce Moore wrote:

Camera Shake.
I know that to avoid camera shake I need a shutter speed at least equal to my focal length. Because of the crop factor when mixing EFS Canon camera with full frame lens, I don't know whether I should match the lenses stated length eg 300 or the 480 because of the crop sensor. Any advice would be appreciated.

Some shots using EFs camera with FF lens and varied the settings that might be of interest to you.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-525057-1.html

DJphoto Loc: SF Bay Area

Bruce Moore wrote:

Camera Shake.
I know that to avoid camera shake I need a shutter speed at least equal to my focal length. Because of the crop factor when mixing EFS Canon camera with full frame lens, I don't know whether I should match the lenses stated length eg 300 or the 480 because of the crop sensor. Any advice would be appreciated.

My feeling is to do whatever works. I have a Canon 80D and Canon EF 70-300 F 4-5.6 IS II USM and sometimes "push it" when taking racing photos. The 80D is my first DSLR, though I've been taking photos for a long time. I've included a couple I took just a few months after I got the camera, at the Sears Point Raceway historics on 4/2/17. I was panning to try for the blurred wheels and background with the car in focus. These were taken at 300mm (480 equivalent) at F14 andF11 respectively, 1/125, ISO 100, shutter priority. It's a real challenge, and most are not great. However I'm happy with these.

(Download)

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Bruce Moore wrote:

Yes thank you. That makes sense. Do I need to know what the crop factor is across the zoom range. Many thanks for your reply. Really helpful.

Assuming no stabilization, if you are shooting at 300mm then 1/480. If you zoom out to 100mm then 1/160. If you zoom in to 400mm then 1/640, etc....

Acountry330 Loc: Dothan,Ala USA

If I have any doubt about being steady, I will bump up my shutter speed. If for some reason I just have to have the slower shutter speed I get out the tripod. Their is trade offs in everything. Happy shooting.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

woodyH wrote:

Camera motion is treated with IS, but subject motion can only be treated with a combination of larger sensor size and higher shutter speed.

The thing missed by most participants in this discussion is that subject motion is just as bad as camera motion - and Image Stabilization does nothing to 'fix' subject motion.