I didn't say you couldn't process. However, just because you can doesn't mean you should. jpg format is a lossy file format. Every time you save a jpg it gets changed. These changes are software driven based on Huffman tree encoding over which the user has no control. So, if you like losing parts of your image data, that's fine. Process all you want.
--Bob
leftj wrote:
Your Polaroid analogy is very wrong. You can do a significant amount of pp on a jpg photo, just not as much as on a RAW photo. Saying you get what you get indicates you cannot pp and that's just not true.
rmalarz wrote:
I didn't say you couldn't process. However, just because you can doesn't mean you should. jpg format is a lossy file format. Every time you save a jpg it gets changed. These changes are software driven based on Huffman tree encoding over which the user has no control. So, if you like losing parts of your image data, that's fine. Process all you want.
--Bob
You lose image data only when you open, edit, save and then reopen and edit again. The key is do all your editing in one session. if you want to try to do different things then make more than one copy. Shooting Fuji has converted me to shooting jpg most of the time.
I generally have to shoot RAW. Otherwise my SOOC files would look like what is below, instead of what I process, also below.
--Bob
par4fore wrote:
If you are a pro shoot raw.
If you are an artist shoot raw.
If you are at all anal shoot raw.
If you print for display or enter contest shoot raw.
If your wife wants a photo of every moment of the holiday, birthday, childs sporting event; so she can post some on Facebook, shoot jpeg/raw.
If you have no need for raw then shoot jpeg. (my mom is 89 and just got her 1st digital camera last year, believe me, she does not need to know what raw even is.)
I always shoot both. Raw files are my negatives. For general use, (slide shows, sharing and printing family photos) if needed, I work on my jepg in Adobe Camera Raw. Usually adjusting exposure, lens correction, de-hazing and shadows. For anything more than that or anything special I work on my raw files.
If you are a pro shoot raw. br If you are an artis... (
show quote)
Open a jpg, do nothing to it, save. You lose data. One doesn't need to edit or reopen. The save alone loses data.
--Bob
leftj wrote:
You lose image data only when you open, edit, save and then reopen and edit again. The key is do all your editing in one session. if you want to try to do different things then make more than one copy. Shooting Fuji has converted me to shooting jpg most of the time.
rmalarz wrote:
I generally have to shoot RAW. Otherwise my SOOC files would look like what is below, instead of what I process, also below.
--Bob
You don't have to shoot RAW to convert to B&W. BTW I do like the B&W.
Thanks for the compliment.
I'm aware that one doesn't necessarily have to shoot RAW to convert to black and white. In fact, I believe black and white is available as a selection in camera, but applicable to jpg captures only. That is unless one uses camera proprietary processing software. However, with RAW data capture, one gets all of the nuances in tonal differences unavailable in jpg format.
--Bob
leftj wrote:
You don't have to shoot RAW to convert to B&W. BTW I do like the B&W.
rmalarz wrote:
Thanks for the compliment.
I'm aware that one doesn't necessarily have to shoot RAW to convert to black and white. In fact, I believe black and white is available as a selection in camera, but applicable to jpg captures only. That is unless one uses camera proprietary processing software. However, with RAW data capture, one gets all of the nuances in tonal differences unavailable in jpg format.
--Bob
I use Luminar 2018 and sometimes Aurora 2018 for pp. When I shoot jpg on my Canon I always shoot color and then if I want B&W I convert it in Luminar. I find all of the tonal nuances to satisfy my needs. I have recently purchased a Fugi camera and I'm finding the in camera film simulations which include several B&W simulations have me shooting in B&W on it quite often.
Much like your choice of cameras and programs, if your choice renders results that please you, that's great. It's the same for myself. I desire results that please me. Those that do, I share. Those that don't provide lessons for the next outing.
--Bob
leftj wrote:
I use Luminar 2018 and sometimes Aurora 2018 for pp. When I shoot jpg on my Canon I always shoot color and then if I want B&W I convert it in Luminar. I find all of the tonal nuances to satisfy my needs. I have recently purchased a Fugi camera and I'm finding the in camera film simulations which include several B&W simulations have me shooting in B&W on it quite often.
leftj wrote:
Your Polaroid analogy is very wrong. You can do a significant amount of pp on a jpg photo, just not as much as on a RAW photo. Saying you get what you get indicates you cannot pp and that's just not true.
The difference between post processing RAW and JPEG is not that much. The only thing with PP on JPEG is that you are processing a file with some information missing. The difference in quality of the post processing can be reduced by your knowledge of the Pre Post Processing you are doing to the JPEG by truly knowing all the functions you can control on images run through the image processor in JPEG setup.
It is entirely possible that you are massaging too much unnecessary information by having Only RAW files to edit. This can lead to "over-cooking" your post processing.
It's just possible that knowing/setting the full capabilities of your camera setup can lead to proper JPEG images, even with the fewer than RAW bit sampling, and create equally good images post processing JPEG.
A for instance is the availability of 7 custom shooting profiles one can set up on Fujifilm digital camera's, including film simulation among other setups.
Short of that, those who shoot only RAW are not generally using image modifications in the field, or in the capture process. How boring must that be when out shooting.
I shoot JPEG, I post process JPEG, and I have all my custom profiles set in the camera, whether four as on my Olympus/other, or seven as on my Fuji's.
I shoot no RAW. Did that for 5 years and used Adobe Photoshop during that time. So happy not to be doing so any more, and not paying a dime to Adobe.
rmalarz wrote:
Open a jpg, do nothing to it, save. You lose data. One doesn't need to edit or reopen. The save alone loses data.
--Bob
JPG enthusiasts "in the know" convert to TIFF or PNG after opening and/or first editing. When you open ANY file, if you do nothing to it why save it? - just close it - in the case of a JPG that will not lose anything.
Delderby wrote:
JPG enthusiasts "in the know" convert to TIFF or PNG after opening and/or first editing. When you open ANY file, if you do nothing to it why save it? - just close it - in the case of a JPG that will not lose anything.
Funny how some people come up with ways to create a complication.
Raw is for serious shooting, and jpeg is for casual shooting.
shelty wrote:
Raw is for serious shooting, and jpeg is for casual shooting.
Another total mis-statement.
Says the truth and that statement is not true.
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.