Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi All.

New here, but I have been reading threads/posts for the past couple of months.

I recently acquired some old Photogenic StudioMaster-II power packs with the trigger cords for them. I have looked all over the internet and have been unable to determine what type of connector is on the end opposite of the one that connects to the StudioMaster. Anyone have a clue what this connection is in the vintage camera world?

Thanks for your time.

Daniel.S

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

This connector was used on non-precision (TV repair shop quality) electronic test equipment from the 50s and early 60s such as Heathkit signal generators. I’ve looked, including the manual for an instrument that used them (I have such an instrument) and am unable to find a type number for it (maybe an “old timer” can provide a type number) It’s obsolete, and to my knowledge. Is no longer available. I would suggest replacing it with a modern connector such as a UHF, BNC, Twinax, etc that has a similar sized mounting hole.

Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi TriX.

Thanks for your response and advice.

Much appreciated!

Daniel.S

Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi TriX.

Okay - your HeathKit info led me to eBay, then to product manuals, then to http://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/old-heathkit-rf-generator-connectors.310043/

Looks like they are Amphenol microphone connectors.

Switchcraft 2501F https://www.alliedelec.com/switchcraft-2501f/70214550/

and

Switchcraft 2501MP https://www.alliedelec.com/switchcraft-2501mp/70214466/

Thanks again for your help!

Daniel.S

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Daniel, welcome to the Hog.
I’ve never seen a jack like that. I own 4 Photogenic 1500 SL’s. Photogenic is still going strong, call them and get info from them, they’re very good people and a very good product.
Are those moonlights or lightheads?
Do they have a Photo cell that can be fired by another light?
If so just mount a speed light near the back and fire that with a trigger. Just set the speedlight to the lowest power to save the batteries and instant recycle and shoot!
Mine are only a little newer than yours but do have std 1/4 jacks!
Again, welcome and good luck!
SS

Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi SharpShooter.

They can use an optical trigger (instead of the trigger cord). It is a Photogenic non-directional AE71A Phototube. They seem to be pretty scarce. I am watching eBay like a hawk! See pic below.

Photogenic stuff was built to last forever! Love this vintage equipment.

Thanks for your feedback and welcoming me.

Daniel.S

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Good for you Daniel, Your Heathkit Research is better than mine (and a vote for QRZ, of which I’m a member, as well). I should have remembered that, especially as I still have Heathkit FM stereo signal generator in my basement. I looked at the manual (which I have), but no description in the parts list for the jack. Glad you were able to identify it.

Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi TriX.

Yeah the manual I found was limited to: Part 432-3 shielded connector

But after that I moved on to google and did a "heathkit connectors" search and that got me to the information on QRZ.

Your bit of info was the ticket to getting there. Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Have a great weekend!

Daniel.S

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

You are more than welcome. Have a great weekend as well.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

First of all DO NOT connect your Studiomaster equipment to any current digital camera. The trigger voltage will well exceed the safe limits theses cameras. A protection device is required for direct connection to the hot shoe or other synchronization terminal in the camera. I have sevel Flashmaster still in use and have serviced many in the past.

The connector in you post is basically and audio type connector made by Amphenol or Cannon (not the camera manufacturer) possible a homemade adaptation to some kind of other synch cord. It is also possible that the very old (1950 vintage) Studiomaster (gray hammertone finish with Lucite power buttons) used that kind of connector in their power packs. If you decided to change the connector, do not do that with the cord connected to the power pack.Be sure to maintain polarity or the unit will fire if it comes in contact with the camera body.

You can cut it off and replace it with a standard HH conector and use it with a conventional synch cord, however, do not do this without the aforementioned protector. It trigger in circuit of you Flashmaster has a vacuum tube classified as a Thyratron which acts lie an electron relay. In some cases the unit will operate even of the tube is defective burt at an extremely high trigger voltage. If you apply a DC voltmeter to that tube socket in the power supply, you may obtain a reading in the 200 VDC range.

Your safest bet- until you have the unit tested and obtain the required protector is to use the photoelectric cell to trigger the unit via slave operation or hook that cort up to a radio trigger system which won't be affected by the higher voltage.

The Studiomasters units were state-of-the art in their day and still are extremely efficient and serviceable units, however, they were produced long before the digital era so precaution need to be taken, The protectors I use are manufactured by Wein.

If you need service on you units contact Holly Enterprises in the U.S. I don't think the Photogenic company still offers parts and service on the Studiomasters but Holly is the guru on that type of gear.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Here is a shot of the adaptation to the Photogenic Studiomaster Sync terminal I have made to utilizing a standard cord mounted household type female connector which accepts a stand PC type synch cord. The female connector I used is not polarized so I can reverse the polarity if it is incorrect. If the polarity is incorrect, the radio may not function bur will work once reversed. If the unit is connected to the camera via a Safe Sync protector, reversed polarity might cause erratic firing if the camera and the unit touch- a annoying shock hazard my also result witch will normalize when correct polarity is restored. I use it in conjunction with my Pocket Wizard radios- it also works with Quantum, Buff and other radio systems. Also see an image of the Wein Safe Sync, the protection device i mentioned in my post.

Wherever I post advice on electronic flash issues, I like to rimed folks that electronic flash gear can harbor lethal voltages and caution should be observed in all testing and even minor external repair operations. If you are not familiar with voltage testing procedures, a technician should be consulted. As I alluded to, especially in on the older units, even the trigger voltage can be harmful to persons as well as cameras.

The male multi-pin connector that you show in your post is what you will need to test and make your adapter. when you remove the cap, you will see which pins the wires are soldered to. You can also test the voltage from those pins. You can use the wire that is already attached or make a new soldered connection. The old audio connector serves no purposes and can be discarded.

Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi E.L.. Shapiro.

Thanks for your feedback and I totally appreciate you not assuming I knew what I was doing (as I am very capable of doing some pretty stupid stuff).

We are on the same page. This is not my first encounter with vintage Photogenic gear (I should have probably noted that early on). When I got my first AA 01 power pack - I read a lot of your posts to keep me and my Canon safe. I really, really, really appreciate the effort you put into to making sure people don't kill themselves and / or their digital camera. You are a good guy!

I currently use a Yongnuo RF-602 wireless remote flash trigger set with a Wein Safe Sync to protect the wireless receiver connected to my main power pack and use optical slaves (AE71A) on additional power packs.

I totally agree with you on converting these to HH female connectors. I was planning to do that and either use Wein L8 Micro Slaves (H-Prong) or additional triggers / Safe Sync's. But I was hoping to create an HH female to a male connector (related to the female connector that was in question) and connect that to the trigger cord that goes to the Studio-Master. Actually in the beginning - I was hoping to determine the name of this connector and find cords that were already pre-made with an HH plug on the other end.

Ideally - It would be great if I could just find more of the Photogenic AE71A Phototubes (and quietly put these trigger cords in a drawer).

Thanks again for your excellent advice and wisdom.

Daniel.S

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Cheap & Dirty!

Theses ordinary photoelectric "tubes" are actually solid state devices that will work beautifully with your Photogenic unit and just about anything else. The small one is form Wein and the larger unit is made by Bowens. They are very inexpensive and some are languishing away in camera shops in their used department .Thing is, they are much more sensitive than the old Photogenic onnes with the white light collector.The one with the 1/4" phone plug can be adapted easily, the other have the H plug prongs. I noticed that you Studiomaster power supply is the later model with a solid state trigger circuit- all the better.

If you run into any other good OLD stuff let me know. The don't make 'em like the used to. A few years back, I was running a side business doin electronic flash modifications, repairs and custom builds.

See images in the nex reply box.

Thansk for the come-back. Kindest regards, Ed

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Photoelectric cells.

(Download)

Daniel.S Loc: Plano, TX

Hi E.L.. Shapiro.

I hadn't seen that Bowens' one before. Glad to hear the Wein L8's are good!

I will keep an eye out.

Thanks.

Daniel.S