bullethole

Way back in the day in highschool, we dry mounted prints for display, etc. I'm looking for alternatives/recommendations for mounting prints to matte board. One would have thought that dry mount presses would be more reasonable, but everything I've found is in the >$300 range, and for occasional use thats just not in the budget (ok, it is, but I'd rather spend the money on something else that I'd use alot more). Any suggestions/recommendations for mounting.

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

I purchased a dry mount press used several years ago. It's a workhorse, and the cost of the used machine wasn't that bad. There are adhesive-clad boards that can be used. There's also spray adhesive. I find both difficult to do. However, I worked with a fellow for years who used the adhesive-clad boards successfully. But he had a press (not heated). That helps. One note: You mention dry-mounting to matte board. I always mount to foamcore. Matte board isn't heavy enough and can sometimes curl.

petercbrandt Loc: New York City, Manhattan

Spray adhesives are not that permanent, the edges of the print will loosen over years of display.

Gregorian Loc: Georgetown, Ky

Bullethole, There is another thread on UHH that mentioned Scotch Mounting Adhesive. It is available in three widths 11"x50", 16"x50 & 24"x50. I purchased the 16"x50 and it really works well. I only have been using for 6 month , but photos have not released from mounting board. I would highly recommend it!!! Thanks to whoever recommended it! See link below:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Scotch%20mounting%20Adhesive&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Archival mounting uses a rice paper (or similar) hinge and rice starch adhesive (or similar) (reversible with water) or the self adhesive type, (reversible with mineral spirits).

https://www.nedcc.org/free-resources/preservation-leaflets/7.-conservation-procedures/7.4-how-to-do-your-own-matting-and-hinging

Foam core used for mounting artwork needs to be archival. Acid free products have a neutral pH, but they achieve this with buffering chemicals, which can leach out and damage artwork. Archival products are acid and lignin-free, and safe to use for art.

If you need to laminate your print to a base - then you have spray ( least longevity), cold press and hot press - which use pressure in the former or heat and pressure in the latter to laminate the print to the base. With hot, dry mount presses, temperature is critical - too hot and you risk melting the emulsion on C-type prints, and too cold and it will lift.

Good print labs will laminate the prints for you if you want.

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

I enjoy using "Gatorfoam" with adhesive on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsG4TWdvtxA
https://robertrodriguezjr.com/2014/12/10/video-tutorial-mounting-prints-onto-gatorfoam-board/
https://www.foamboardsource.com/gatorfoams--self-adhesive-gatorfoam--3-16--1-sided-self-adhesive-gatorfoam.html

bullethole

Thanks all

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

My experience with a great number of various mounting adhesives has always been rather negative especially in comparison to dry mounting. Many of theses adhesives are messy and in time, can shrink, dry up and come off or actually damage the print or cause gas fading. The pre-coated boards and foam materials are cleaner working but not as archival and permanent as dry mounting.

If you can't obtain a used press at reasonable price there is an old, rudimentary and time-honored way of using dry mounting tissue without a press. I did this many decades ago and it works. Get a pack or roll of dry mounting tissue in the desired size. Have several sheets of brown kraft paper on hand to use as a buffer. Use a household flat iron at lower settings as your heat source. Using the iron, preheat the mounting board, the print and the buffer paper to remove all moisture and flatten everything out. If you want to invest in a tacking iron, that is certainly a handy item, however, you can use the tip of the iron to tack the tissue to the print and the board. When you have aligned the print to the board, place the buffer paper over the print and apply the iron with moderate pressure and move it around to evenly heat the "sandwich" you have stacked up.

Caution: Use some scrap board and discarded prints to experiment with the heat settings. Make use to protect the print surface with the buffer paper- do not apply the iron directly to the print or it may damage the surface or cause shinny spots. Use the iron in DRY mode- not steam and make sure there is no water remaining in the iron. A Teflon coated iron is best. Start at the lowest heat setting and work you way up until you find the setting that activates the tissue. I have successfully mounted hundreds of prints with this method before I purchased my first press. Once you arrive at the proper heat level the method will work consistently.

If you are still shopping around for a press, look for a used SEAL in the 14x17 or 16x20 sizes. I have seen them advertised for as little as $100.00- 150.00- the problem is the shipping weight if it is not a local purchase. Dry mounting tissue is available in acid-free archival types if you are using archival mounting boards. Seal also makes special release sheets which are better that kraft paper if you do lots of mounting.

I hope this helps.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I agree. I have used an iron and dry mount tissue on silver prints and have seen zero discoloration after 40 years of hanging. Now whether that applies to ink jet prints, I can’t say.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

I too use gator foam. But, I also use a cold lamination roller press. The press gives an even contact and as the 'sandwich' is run through it air bubbles don't have a chance to form. A suggestion for anyone using adhesive, wipe down the mounting surfaces with a tack cloth. I once mounted a 34" wide pano only to discover a pimple in the print created by a spec of something between it and the board.
Adhesive Foamcore or Gatorfoam are great products for a quick and relatively simple way to mount photos. They may not be archival and if you need that, this method isn't recommended. (At 78 yoa, archival don't enter into my thought processes)

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

Ink jet prints aren't either!

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

When I mounted on the Gatorfoam I had a little trouble getting the edges perfect. I real surprise came when I tried my table saw with a fresh, sharp blade to trim a 1/8 inch off all four sides after the print was mounted.

Rich1939 Loc: Pike County Penna.

Indeed! After a few frustrating attempts, starting with oversized board made life simpler. Trimming after mounting is a lot easier than trying to get it right beforehand.

Goober Loc: Southeastern PA

I have used the Scotch Mounting Adhesive for several years for exhibition prints and framed prints I sell. I have some I mounted about 10 years ago with no problem whatsoever. Many photos were mounted without the mat over the edges of the print and still no raised corners. I have had corners lift up when using spray mount adhesives.

Al Beatty Loc: Boise, Idaho

I'm with TriX. Back in the 70s I mounted 8x10 B&W prints on 11X14 art board using a regular clothes iron and dry-mount tissue. I have one of those mounts today and it is still sticking just fine. Take care & ...