CanonTom Loc: Birmingham

A few weeks ago I was all set to acquire a FF Canon camera. I already have a APS-C Canon camera......

After inquiring of many of you, and looking over my short-term Christmas budget (I have tons of kids and grandkids, LOL), I believe my best route is to start acquiring better glass now in EF (full frame) format with the intention of later purchasing a used Canon FF camera body.

While I have a "Nifty Fifty" EF 50mm f1.8 portrait lens, I recently found that in extreme low light, inside the house, the 50mm was too long for a crop frame camera. When switching to my 24mm 2.8 lens, I could not get enough light without letting the ISO get too high and ended up with excess graininess.....

I am looking at the Sigma 24mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF as a Christmas present to myself and am wondering what those of you who have experience with this lens think of my choice. I am sure the Canon L series would be better but it is MUCH more expensive! The Sigma seems to get better reviews than the closest Tamron so I am gravitating toward the Sigma. I have never owned or shot with a Sigma.......

In short, I would appreciate comments from folks who know what my best choice of new lens might be.......... Please comment!!

Thanks in advance, Tom

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Didn't you get a flash recently, too? Wouldn't adding light help rather than an extremely thin depth of field for portraits? And, less than 50mm is not a typical focal length for head shots, although maybe you're thinking full body for these proposed wide-angle lenses and "portrait lens"?

gvanschaick Loc: Lake Hopatcong

Tom, A couple of comments for you. First I am a retired wedding photographer. I shot Nikon FF with either the 24-70 or the 80-200. First, my goal was always to shoot above 50mm (35mm for 1.5 crop). Below 50mm you will run the risk of facial distortion. The nose will become larger than you want. While I have the 85mm F1.4, I rarely used it at F1.4 because DOF is sooooo shallow. If you try focusing on the eye and hit the nose instead, you can really see it. So my goal was to shoot portraits at F2.8 and focus on the eye for some of the shots. Use the longest focal length you can get in your house. move yourself or the people you want to photograph. Since you are talking about portrait work in your house, concentrate on controlling the lighting. Use flash maybe. How about other additional lighting. Do you have work lights? Do you have a good flashlight? Can you bounce the flash that you have? Learning to control the lighting is probably more important then a new lens. Experiment with different lighting techniques. Good luck

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Tom, not exactly a portrait lens but if you're right on top of your subject, then ya gotta do what ya gotta do!
Personally I would get instead a Canon 24-70 2.8. If that isn't fast enough for ya, get a speedlight along with it and learn to use it.
There will always be a time, when no matter HOW fast your lens is, it's not enough and you'll have to add light.
You don't always want the ears out of focus, then what?? At f8 you gotta add light!
Anyway, that's just me....., good luck!
SS

dougbev3 Loc: Pueblo, Colorado

Is there a forum on here, on how to use lights.... That is one subject that I really need to learn more about.... I have had pictures blown out with too much light, to many times to speak of... I have studio lights, flash also. I have diffusers, umbrellas, snoots.... Is there a good book written on how to use flash that someone would recommend .

jcboy3

Buy the full frame with decent lens first. You start getting better quality pictures right away.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Anything by Joe McNally (I think I have all of his books) or Neil van Niekerk.

Strobist is a good start too for off-camera speedlights:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html?m=1

CanonTom Loc: Birmingham

Good point CG Canon.......I did buy a speedlite a couple of weeks ago. I have not had much time lately to work on learning how to use the speedlite but did get the book on working with light you recommended and have experimented with it some. Also, I did forget that the more I stop down, the shallower the DOF..........Thanks to all who commented. Sounds like I simply need to learn the speedlite on this one and work with what I already have.

Dan R Loc: Way Way Way Upstate NY

Good morning, I'm probably the newest member on here and one of the least experienced. Last week I purchased a used SB 700 from a very knowledgeable gentlemen near Pittsburgh, PA and he told me about this site. I wish I found this site a few years ago, I really like reading the articles. But anyway, I recently bought this video from Creative Live for $24 or something similar and it was a huge help getting started and understanding flashes. I watched the video and practiced, and I can get through manual and TTL mode. I'm not selling Creative Live, but what I like about them is that I can download their classes and keep them for ever. I've purchased several classes from them and some are really good and others not as good, but as a Hobbyist, with only about 2-3 years experience, I've learned from each one of them. I hope this helps.

https://www.creativelive.com/courses/how-to-shoot-with-your-first-flash-mike-hagen?

Jaackil Loc: Massachusetts

Scott Kelby has some excellent video classes on using flash, you do have to become a member of KelbyOne but the cost, about $150 per year, is well worth the money with all the content available.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Some ideas about portrait lenses.

https://www.howtogeek.com/313337/what-is-the-best-lens-for-taking-portraits/

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Tom, I find the 50 1.8 on my cropped sensor to be one of my favorite portrait lenses. Yes, the 50 becomes a 80 mm lens, BUT, I find that ideal inside, I mean, you only have to back up a LITTLE, most of the situations I have been in inside I find that focal length ideal. But, if push comes to shove you might consider a 35 1.8 which becomes a 56 mm on your camera, that should be fine for you. Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Check out https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7zZBD6EMB1k video and think about adding light. You will see he usually shoots at f/5.6. I think money spent on lighting and learning may give you the most bang for your buck.

Best,
Todd Ferguson

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

You have it backwards: The more you open up, the more shallow depth of field becomes.
When you stop down, the DOF increases.
"Opening up" means opening the aperture wider like from f/5.6 to f/4.

Learn to use your flash... there are a lot of ways to use it so it doesn't look like flash that will improve your photos.
Check out the two sites I gave links for above by Joe McNally and Neil van Niekerk.
Both have videos as well.
A fast lens is nice to have, it can give you shallower depth of field and help with exposure, but won't fix bad lighting.
When I hear people say "I'm a natural light photographer", I think they haven't learned to use flash.
A good photographer should know how to use all the tools effectively.
Cheers!

CanonTom Loc: Birmingham

With the new flash, I have found that my 50mm 1.8 is indeed fine. I am going to think about the 35 1.8 also. Perhaps my choice of 24mm is too wide......Thanks.