Mondolinni Loc: Long Island, New York

Hello Hogs,
Does anyone have a suggestion for "GOOD Instructional Reading" for Indoor Flash Photography?

Flash drives me nuts! I just can't seem to get the correct combination of shutter speed and aperture to work.
I'm either too bright or too dark most of the time.
I am shooting with a Nikon D500, 910 flash, bounce, diffusers, yadda,yadda, yadda!
I just did a church wedding ceremony for a friend, no stress from them, they just wanted a few shots of the church, since the reception would be held out of state with a hired photographer. Some elderly family members couldn't make the trip, so I was asked to get a few shots at the church with those folks. (piece of cake, right)?
I did it, but what a hassle trying to find the right settings, so frustrating.
Thanks for any suggestions.

SonyA580 Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer

I found this website to be very helpful https://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbasics4.html

rwilson1942 Loc: Houston, TX

Haydon

Good choice. I cheat with an incident light meter or use AV with ETTL with FEC.

rjaywallace Loc: Wisconsin

Understanding Flash Photography by Bryan Peterson. From Amazon. Kindle version $18, paperback $20.25.
Peterson also wrote the acknowledged ‘bible’ on photography exposure, “Understanding Exposure”

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Mondo, yes, the light produced by flash can always be improved by using modifiers and angle of bounce etc. that's why studios use strobes.
But truth be told, the situations you mention need to be more ideal.
Today's flash are so good, that just like a camera can get it right almost all the time on Auto, so can a flash get it right almost all the time on ettl.
That's always my suggestion. When you are an expert on ettl, then start to throw in modifiers or bounce etc.
That's just my 2 cents!
SS

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

--Bob

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

With a TTL flash, it's a snap. Flash set on TTL, camera on Manual mode, ISO 400, shutter at 1/200, aperture at F4 for starters. This way the flash shuts off when the proper exposure on the subject is reached. the aperture can be stopped down to increase DoF. The ISO can be increased to provide a little more reach for the flash. And the shutter speed can be increased to control the effects of ambient light. A very high shutter speed using high speed sync can make bright daylight go darker in the background. It also works with off camera flash and remote release.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

Direct flash can be unflattering. When doing portraits I prefer bouncing off the ceiling, walls, or a diffuser. I practically ALWAYS use ETTL.

joer Loc: Colorado/Illinois

Nikon flash is so simple. Quit trying to do it on manual, that is fine in a studio setting where lighting is constant. Flash has an effective range and it changes with bounce and diffusers. Forget what the flash shows as limits when using them. Learn the limits with some practice shots or use auto ISO but be mindful of the close distance.

With people shots there is no need to use high speed sync unless you want to darken the back round but you will limit distance. Don't bounce off walls or ceiling unless they are white other wise the image color is affected, unless you want that. Just let the camera choose the sync speed, flash on i-TTL, ISO on auto, aperture for DOF and you won't miss the shot. The SB910 flash is as good as it gets and has ample power to do just about most things.

The supplied diffuser will soften the light and reduce shadows at the expense of distance.

canon Lee

One of many things to know about flash is that the flash is measured to the subject (not the background) and the longer the shutter speed to brighter the background ( ambient light) too long and you get motion smear. Understand that using a flash is a 2 step process (camera records the ambient light in the room and then the flash goes off to add the correct amount of flash on the subject. The light from your flash (TTL) is only activated after the ambient light is captured, then the flash goes off to illuminate the subject. Learn about the cameras shutter curtains! The faster the shutter speed the darker the background. Flash (TTL) is calibrated to illuminate the subject not the background. Low light shooting needs a lens that is F1.8~2.8 letting more light in so that the shutter speed can be at a minimum like 1/60sec. The closer to the subject the better. Using a diffuser on a flash lowers the light by one stop. Kicking up the ISO to 800% in most cameras will aid in low light situations. My camera I have set the ISO to 1000% with good results in low light situations. In conclusion... for low light (churches) you need a lens that lets in a lot of light ( fast lens, big aperture opening)

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

Mondolinni I oft assist a tenured wedding shooter in my market... She has me follow her closely with a speedlight mounted in a small softbox on a six foot support. Her visual statement is such that I'm directed typically to hold the source at least several feet above her lens axis and at a slight offset... either left or right (she signals which way).

Whenever I have had to shoot wedding events solo with my SB910 I always lower the dispersion panel and mount it's diffusion dome... This changes it's zoom setting to 14mm (wide angle) and effective softens it's effect... I've also used the rouge flash bender with mixed success... As PHRubin wisely notes: "Direct flash can be unflattering..." So true in as there isn't shadowing to provide bias relief i.e. the perception of three dimension space in a two dimensional rendering... Trust this makes sense...

If you don't want to invest in a textbook here is a delightfully narrated "Nikon Speedlight Handbook: Flash Techniques for Digital Photographers" from Amherst Media. Highly recommend this in as it is a rather complete analysis of the benefits, limitations and application of speedlights in commercial scenarios. Well worth the two hours in my humble estimation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxSFA-q47A4

Best advice? Always hire an assistant for wedding events whenever practical...
I no longer shoot weddings solo (experience is a brutal teacher)

Hope this helps or is at least food for thought...
I wish you well on your journey Mondolinni...

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Setting ISO to 800% or 1000% of what value?
--Bob

Mondolinni Loc: Long Island, New York

Thanks Much Folks for the suggested resources, and taking the time to reply; Great suggestions and food for thought.
Practice-Practice-Practice!!!

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Paul, I agree, but he's had problems with bouncing.
A good, well controlled direct flash is better than a poorly done bounce flash without enough light!
He needs to learn to walk before he runs!!! Just saying.
SS