chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...I use a Hahnamuele Spray straight out of the can for these prints...AFA UV protection and fading, well, I'm a cabinet guy which means I deal in clearcoats...in my experience direct sunlight will *always* fade color no matter what it is, or what it's on, and because of this I automatically take precautions when something is going to be exposed to the sun. Precaution one: don't leave *it* in the sun! Hahaha...even my battery-operated tools get put in a shady spot, that said, maybe a rotating stock of prints would work for you (like that cool Bay Photo system)?

In-lightened Loc: Kansas City

Yes I have noticed all the fade on my "finished" wood. My friend is using that brand of spray on his gatorboard mounted prints but just started. Does it look nice?

That cool Bay Photo system is getting my attention. I'm thinking I will order one and see how it looks. I'm wondering if it will fade too.
Bottom line...close the blinds.

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...hahaha...in your neck of the woods this example might be a little lost, but out here I'm always down by the ocean and there are many finishers who make good livings stripping and applying clearcoats...on boats! So I always counsel my clients who want a nice wood door on their southern or western exposure to *paint* if you don't want to redo every year or so! Diffusing the direct sunlight would be effective, for sure...

SusanFromVermont Loc: Southwest corner of Vermont

Kim, do you have a printer for at least 8x10 prints? That is what I work with to make sure the ones I send out to a photo lab for larger prints will come out right. Also calibrate my monitor and use ICC profiles for the different papers.

If you want to learn about different papers, I recommend getting a sampler from Red River Paper. [ www.redrivercatalog.com ] It contains most of the papers they sell and you can do a test print on each one so you can see how the paper affects the printed image. That is what I did, and I still have that box of prints and refer to it when thinking about getting a different look. I printed half of each page with a standard test photo that will show how colors look in different shades and with/without shadows. On the other half of each page I printed one of my photos - a bright pink poppy with a green background [full bokeh!] and detail not only in the petals but also in the center. The only problem is whether the photo lab you send out to has equivalent papers. Basic selections are usually matte, glossy, luster, and metallic papers. You might like looking at the website because they also have informational articles about papers, printers, and more.

I have a lot of pictures matted and framed already, because I have been exhibiting them. But sometimes when I need a frame for a new photograph, I just remove what is in the one I want to use and put in the new one. Of course, if it is not cropped to the same dimensions I have to cut a new mat... The picture removed can be stored between sheets of cardboard with special paper between them. I also usually leave the mat with the picture so it is ready to go back into the frame again.

I'll be interested in hearing how you like the xposer system. It does sound intriguing, and would certainly fulfill what you are looking for in terms of ease of use and storage. Once you have those frames, then all you would need are additional prints. It is more than twice as much as what I pay for a 16x20 print, but if it works for you it will be worth it.

Susan

Bill_de Loc: US

I do everything but cut the glass. Cutting the mats is the least amount of fun.

BlackRipleyDog

I recently completed two proto-type projects of adhering cotton-based paper prints directly to both a 1/2 inch birch plywood panels and Gatorboard with 3M Positionable Mounting Adhesive which worked well. Concerned about the environmental impacts of a print that would not be under glass, I gave them 4 brush (not a foam roller - bubbles) coats of water-based semi-gloss poly. All seem good until the prints started bubbling in small discrete spots where the adhesive was thin; specifically on the edges. Overall a good first effort and proof-of-concept but the top-coating is obviously problematic.
I just ordered 3 cans of the Hahnamuele Spray to try from FreeStyle Photo Supply. Thanks for the idea.

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...should work well for you...are you married to the ply? That makes me nervous (just because it's wood, albeit structurally sound wood, and wouldn't have the stability of Gatorboard?)...

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...nice work Bill! I'm doing some canvas (trying to make 'em pop out of the frame), here's one, and, yes, I'm still struggling with the lighting...

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Bill_de Loc: US

I like it! Where do you have the canvas printed?

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chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...thanks man! I get my canvas done by a small shop out here I've developed a relationship with...dunno if they will ship, but his price is reasonable...want me to ask?

Bill_de Loc: US

No, but thanks. After thinking about it I would probably be better finding someone local so I could inspect the finished product before accepting it.

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chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...probably best. You'll find somebody...

BlackRipleyDog

Well, each project is six panels of 1'x2' for an overall dimension of 2'x6'. The sunset is on the plywood. The river shot is on Gatorboard. Different construction. Each Gatorboard panel is set into a thin open back frame and they are mulled together with a top and bottom strip of pine. The sunset panels are maple ply with a thin black pine edging around them and also are clamped together and mulled as well with ripped strips of plywood. The top section is the hanging strip with it's opposite mate screwed to the wall and they nest along the 30 to 45 degree longitudinal miter cut.
I printed each panel from a cut-down sheet of 13"x38" cotton-based fine art paper from Red River and printed on my R-2000.
Heft and strength appears to be with the plywood as it is very rigid. The Gatorboard installation is lighter and flimsier because there is no solid continuous back across the piece. Each panel is adhered to it's frame with a bead of hot-melt glue.
I am thinking that I will solve the issue of the bubbling with injecting some adhesive into each void with a syringe and flattening them out with a bayer roller.
The plywood is more cost effective but the Gatorboard does have it's strengths as well.
Both these pieces are going to be the centerpieces in my booth at an art /craft show I am participating in this October.

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chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...beautiful! Great design!

BlackRipleyDog

Thanks. All those years in construction management and hanging around the cabinet shop paid off.
Looking forward to trying that spray on the next one.