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studio lighting: experience and advice
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Aug 17, 2017 08:47:54   #
berchman Loc: South Central PA
 
Gene51 wrote:
40X, take Anotherview's advice - it is golden and obviously comes from experience, and not from reading reviews and advertising. You don't need a large amount of gear, and speedlights are a very easy and less costly way to get very good results.


Couldn't agree more.

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Aug 17, 2017 08:51:50   #
4OX
 
Gracias!

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Aug 17, 2017 09:09:57   #
djb663 Loc: Massachusetts
 
My two cents. I use the Profoto B1's and B2. The B2 is extremely portable, and although I'm biased, is the gold standard. You can go to Adorama or B&H and get deals. Open box or demo. Open box comes with full manufacturer's warranty, demo with 90 day warranty. They are consistent, durable, and the light modifiers available are near limitless. You can go ttl, or manual, or a combination of both. I use them for weddings, both indoor and out, senior portraits, and even pet photography. Good luck with your decision. I, like you, also am quite unhappy if I commit to something and don't buy the best that I can afford.

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Aug 17, 2017 09:20:05   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Correct: "Speedlights don't have modeling lights."

But a simple workaround exists. Fire each speedlight by itself to determine how it affects the subject. Adjust the position and power of each speedlight as needed for the intended result.

In a studio setting, you can do this speedlight adjustment using a mannequin head before the shoot of a live subject. But I found it better to do the adjustment with the subject.
bkyser wrote:
It depends on you. Speedlights don't have modeling lights, so when you are beginning and can't "picture" the light before hand, those modeling lights are invaluable.

Also, if you plan on working outdoors, you either need to use High Speed Sync with your speedlights, which greatly reduces power output, or you will need studio lights to overpower the sun. (or you will end up with either under exposed subjects, or over exposed sky)

I'm a user of, and HUGE fan of Paul C. Buff equipment. Like someone above said, not inexpensive, but very flexible in it's uses. You can't use modeling lights with a battery pack on Buff lights, but they are built like tanks, and are fantastic for portable set ups. I haven't had a studio in years, everyone wants photos in their home, or outdoors. The mottled backdrop, or worse, 80's bookshelf painted backdrop, etc. are all getting pretty dated.

I do have, and use speedlights, but if I HAD to pick one or the other for versatility, I'd stay with studio lights and power packs. (in my case Paul C. Buff systems, but others would work too, just make sure you don't get too low of power if you get entry level. You may save a few pennies, but studio strobes actually overpower the sun, very few do high speed sync.

By the way, I'm the guy that does before and after photos for a few local orthodontists in the area, so I do kind of know what you are going for.

We do the before in the office, but the after is done in a nearby park, and the parents get a nice 8x10 of the after.
It depends on you. Speedlights don't have modeli... (show quote)

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Aug 17, 2017 10:47:13   #
Bob Werre
 
Gene 51, I also did many years of shooting Speed-o tron Black Line lights. We had the a full set of the piggy back sets--5 packs I think. We used the 2400 and 1200's for location work. I owned an early 1200ws unit that weighed in at 48lbs! Half the pro photographers in Houston used Speedos' at one time, so it was easy to borrow stuff if needed.

I finally settled on Dynalite's for most everything--every pack made one trip to the shop, but after that they worked fine since. Normally it was just a switch that had to be replaced.

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Aug 17, 2017 10:56:05   #
bkyser Loc: Fly over country in Indiana
 
anotherview wrote:
Correct: "Speedlights don't have modeling lights."

But a simple workaround exists. Fire each speedlight by itself to determine how it affects the subject. Adjust the position and power of each speedlight as needed for the intended result.

In a studio setting, you can do this speedlight adjustment using a mannequin head before the shoot of a live subject. But I found it better to do the adjustment with the subject.


True, but time is money. I prefer to see the patterns, use a handheld meter, and have the shot done, so I can move on to the next pose/shot.

I'm not thinking that move the lights, take a test shot for each light, then move again, etc. Is something that I'd want to spend time doing.

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Aug 17, 2017 11:13:59   #
Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska
 
4OX wrote:
... I usually start off cheap, have regrets, then invest in higher quality...I HATE WHEN I DO THAT! ...

You will hate it if you start with speedlights!

Not enough functionality, and not nearly the ease of using strobes. In the end everything bought for speedlights will be replaced. They do work, and for those on a tight budget that may be the only way.

40X wrote:
... Profoto seems to be the gold standard for strobes. Phottix is a close second, and then the rest. ...

In some ways that is correct, but not in others and probably not for your specific needs. Research it thoroughly.

For example the PCB strobes do not have built in lithium batteries and cannot do high speed sync at greater than the camera's x-sync. Portable battery packs are available but not as nice as builtin, and you may never need high speed sync...

On the other hand the PCB Einstein has two modes, one for short flash duration to freeze action and another to maintain the same color temperature at all power settings. Other strobes and speedlights change color as the power is changed, and you can play Hell in PP trying to remove the color cast from different parts of the image.

Of those here on UHH doing professional portraiture, in and out of a studio, most are using PCB Einstein E640 strobes. That is for very good reason. It might be different with a fully dedicated permanent studio setup. But most need maximum flexibility.

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Aug 17, 2017 12:36:37   #
james1701d
 
Why don't you just get in good with a local photographer and let them shoot ? Trade for Services, and stick to your practice. Would be less expensive and less of a headache for everyone involved, including your staff ? I've been down this road before, that's why I piped in :-)

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Aug 17, 2017 13:26:18   #
sirlensalot Loc: Arizona
 
Assuming you are setting up in a small room? Way to much gear if so. If you have not tried it yet, would do so incrementally. First - read / view free Neil Van Niekirk videos. 2nd - try 1 on-camera external flash with "black foamie thing" described in videos and use bounce flash technique. 3rd - if not satisfied, 1 light stand with umbrella or softbox, 1- reflector, 1- trigger, 1- receiver, 1 tripod. I doubt you will need to go beyond that. If you are planning on doing this in a large room, guessing the strobes will serve you better.
Neil gets some amazing results with a minimum of equipment.

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Aug 17, 2017 14:15:24   #
Reinaldokool Loc: San Rafael, CA
 
Apaflo wrote:
Speedlights are probably not the way to go.

Look at Paul C. Buff's Einstein E640 strobes. At least two, but four of them is much better. These will maintain the same color temperature at different power settings.

Get Buff's Cybersync controller and triggers. And when you buy stands make sure to get air cushioned models.

You might also consider a Mini Vagabond battery pack for each light, or perhaps per pair, to reduce the number of cords to trip on.

It's not cheap, but nothing is more functional either. The constant color temp is extremely nice and not available with even higher priced equipment.
Speedlights are probably not the way to go. br br... (show quote)


I second the Paul Buff product. I had Alien Bees, but the Eisteins are great. Also the use of at least four lights. I would use a main and a fill, but then use the other(s) to illuminate the background, and or backlighting. Also possible to use a hair light. Makes a big difference.

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Aug 17, 2017 15:09:31   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
bkyser wrote:
True, but time is money. I prefer to see the patterns, use a handheld meter, and have the shot done, so I can move on to the next pose/shot.

I'm not thinking that move the lights, take a test shot for each light, then move again, etc. Is something that I'd want to spend time doing.


That's not how it works. You should know that. After a few hours of practice you have some standard light placements and output settings, and you use a flashmeter to get your ratios, and if you are using reflectors, you are still going to do some test shots and some adjustments. We used to do load a polaroid back and take test shots to check lighting - the film era version of chimping.

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Aug 17, 2017 15:14:36   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Bob Werre wrote:
Gene 51, I also did many years of shooting Speed-o tron Black Line lights. We had the a full set of the piggy back sets--5 packs I think. We used the 2400 and 1200's for location work. I owned an early 1200ws unit that weighed in at 48lbs! Half the pro photographers in Houston used Speedos' at one time, so it was easy to borrow stuff if needed.

I finally settled on Dynalite's for most everything--every pack made one trip to the shop, but after that they worked fine since. Normally it was just a switch that had to be replaced.
Gene 51, I also did many years of shooting Speed-... (show quote)


My Speedotrons are Black Line as well. Mine are about 20 yrs old now, but they still work. The fashion shooters in NYC used Ascor and Balcar mostly, and Speedotron to a lesser degree. I always thought the Speedotrons were a little more reliable. Dynalites are great, and I am glad you are enjoying them.

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Aug 17, 2017 15:35:13   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
4OX wrote:
I'm a dentist and like and use photography in my practice. I am setting up an extra room to do before and after portraits. I usually start off cheap, have regrets, then invest in higher quality...I HATE WHEN I DO THAT! I've been taking a 3 part class in studio lighting. I was thinking the biggest bang for the buck would be a couple of speedlights, stands, softbox, umbrella etc That would also be portable. Profoto seems to be the gold standard for strobes. Phottix is a close second, and then the rest. I am planning to give my hygienist a free engagement session/photo as a gift, and another patient asked me to take a graduation pic if I wanted the practice...I do. Ideas and suggestions? Thanks
I'm a dentist and like and use photography in my p... (show quote)


Rather than going back and forth on the merits of this or that light source, take a look at a real setup, in this case done with speedlights - and look at one way it can be done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0rF6F5D0_g

And another small-area, home based studio, by Neil van Niekirk, with different modifiers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay4vi5o5k_c

Here are a couple of ideas using a single speedlight and bounce

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjzeKXZioII

And this a comprehensive (and long) video on portrait lighting

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OfWXps93dg

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Aug 17, 2017 16:27:25   #
bweber Loc: Newton, MA
 
You want a set up to take before and after photos of your patients. The set up will be in a small room, and I assume all pictures will be in the same room using the same set up. Most of the suggestions I read are much to costly and complex for your needs. Unless you plan to expand your studio photography, I see no reason not to use speed lights. I would go with two or three off camera and an on camera trigger to shoot the lights. I shot an entire day of over 50 portraits for out local battered women's shelter using two canon 580exs and an 420ex.I set up a hair light on a boom that you may not need. My main light was shot through a Neewer soft box (neewer.com) These soft boxes are designed to work with speed lights and are under $50.00. I used a couple of light stands, to hold the units and I placed a reflector on the ground to help remove the shadows. The soft box covers a broad area, and I assume that once the first shots are completed the additional shots will be using the same set up so there is no real need for modeling lights. The speed lights will give you enough power for a small room and you want to place the soft box close to your subject. I also suggest you read the Speedlight's handbook by Syl Arena. It is a very good reference. Finally the speed lights will have name other uses and are very portable. Good luck.

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Aug 17, 2017 16:31:18   #
papa Loc: Rio Dell, CA
 
I see you're new here and may not be familiar with the PM retrieval. You have a "Private Message" from me in answer to your question regarding the Photogenic PL2500DR monolight. Look for the yellow line at the top of the page. Click on that and then click on Re: Photogenic.

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