Saw some monarchs flitting around the milkweed the other day, looks like we got at least one egg. If you zoom in on it, you can see the striations on the egg.
Good close-up documentation. I would like to see you get closer.
Set your lens to Minimum Focusing Distance on Manual, move camera + lens towards subject until focus found, then take photo at 1:1 mag (true macro).
Thanks for the suggestions, I've only had my Tamron 90mm macro lens for a few weeks, I'm still learning what it can do. I think I was pretty close to the minimal shooting distance even in autofocus. The biggest challenge was the wind, my wife was holding the leaf so I could shoot the underside, but the whole plant kept moving around in the breeze.
I'm hoping we can remember which milkweed plant the egg was on so we can shoot it again and watch for the caterpillar.
I've got a Fotodiox doubler, but I haven't tried it with the macro lens yet. (Based on my experiences with other lenses, it wouldn't surprise me if I wound up using manual focus only.)
Update: With the doubler attached to the Tamron 90 mm, the minimum focal distance is probably no more than two inches from the front of the lens, and, as I suspected, autofocus doesn't work well.
Here's another shot, taken with the camera on a tripod, image stabilization off, with the doubler mounted, using manual focus. I'm not sure it is as in-focus as the earlier shot, the surface of the leaf may be more in focus than the egg due to depth issues, but the light was different, so the striations show up differently. It kept bouncing in and out of focus, probably due to wind.
You are experiencing the bane of every field macro-photographer: subject movement and extremely narrow Depth-of-Field. Most of us use diffused speedlight illumination, which allows a typical exposure of 1/200-sec at f/16, ISO 200, hand-held. Do you own a standard speedlight? Take a look at hand-held field macro set-ups from pages 4 through 7:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-32754-4.html
I don't have a good speedlight yet (also on my wishlist), and that probably wouldn't have helped here, because I was shooting outdoors, the second shot was with late afternoon direct sun. (Although I see some outdoor settings on the setups pages you mentioned, where there are some impressive looking kits.)
Adding the doubler to the 90 mm macro lens, as expected, produces an even shallower depth of field, something I'll have to practice with if I'm going to try to take shots using the doubler.
Thanks for the suggested settings.
This is a good start. The speedlight creates more powerful illuminationthan the on-camera flash, and this lets you get effective exposure at smaller apertures and lower ISO. Also, you make use of a big diffuser on a big flash, and this cuts the shadows.
mikenolan wrote:
I don't have a good speedlight yet (also on my wishlist), and that probably wouldn't have helped here, because I was shooting outdoors . . .
ALL of my macro-photography is hand-held, and in the field (outdoors). Speedlight illumination allows ISO 200, 1/200-sec at f/16. This is my earlier hand-held, macro set-up. It is fairly typical of set-ups used in this forum.
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