SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

This post is meant to be both informative and a learning experience.
We all have a methodology that we use, wether it's simple or complex probably depends on our level of skill or possibly our chosen subject matter.
I know a picture is with a thousand words, but Part 1 is not so much about the images themselves as how we go about setting up the conscious part or and actual physical approach in the field or studio.
I know some shoot many types of genres, if you want to describe more than one, do each in a separate post so we can keep it understandable and straight, especially to those that are less experienced.
This is an opportunity to learn how both new and advanced photographers interact with their chosen subject. If you have time to plan your shot, what is it that you look for and how do you go about it, etc.
Part 2, after part 1 peters out will be more about the actual image and deconstructing what actually went into those images, both consciously and physically.
I'll post mine subsequently. This should be a fun departure!!! LoL
SS

dsnoke Loc: North Georgia, USA

Interesting topic.

For my full reply see http://seven-oaks.net/dickspics/thoughts-on-photography/. In brief, I start with composition, not using the camera. Once I figure out what I want to shoot, my thought process is aperture priority, although I shoot only in full manual (no auto-ISO) mode. I also make it a point to shoot every composition horizontally, vertically, wide and tight, HDR and bracketed, with and without zoom blur, and sometimes in multiple exposure. Ya just never know. Lastly, I try to shoot any scene from at least three different perspectives, just to be sure I cover the bases. Interestingly, I find my first choice is rarely the best one.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

I'll talk mostly about my environmental landscapes. These are usually an image that I envision in my head after seeing something that sparks an idea. So they often involve props both natural, manmade or living.
I call these complex compositions because as a composition they can involve multiple subjects capable each of standing on their own but together become more interesting and complex but at the risk of becoming busy.
I might see something while driving around somewhere and catalogue it into my mind and then formulate how I want the outcome to look.
Sometimes I see something in the day but it would make a better shot at night.
My photography tends to be very deliberate. It's only serendipitous if I'm traveling so I won't know an area and have my camera all the time and just happening upon something to shoot. At home I rarely carry a camera unless I have something I'm going to go and deliberately shoot.
So for me photography is usually a pretty conscious effort that's been preplanned. Sometimes, I'm sure like many I have to wait for maybe a full moon or cloudy skys or spring wildflowers to make the composition work.
SS

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Dick, thanks for the link.
Do you shoot mostly landscape or are you involved in other genres of photography as well? If there are others, do you change the methodology or is it almost always the same?
SS

tdekany Loc: Oregon

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Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

I decide what I want to shoot. Decide whether or not I'll need a tripod. When I get to where the subject is, I set the aperture based on the DOF I want. I set the shutter speed, based on whether the target is static or not, and whether I can brace the camera for a lower speed. I set the iso as low as possible, based on the light needed for a good exposure. I take a few test shots, then I take a half dozen or so pictures, possibly adjusting the shutter speed or iso to get a better exposure.

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

General principals (from the top of my head).

Understand light (direction, colour, soft and hard light)
Understand composition (including how to isolate the subject (if needed)).
Understand your gear - including how to get the "correct" exposure, in lots of different lighting conditions .
Know your subject.
Develop an "eye" for images (you do not need a camera to do this), being very observant can help a lot.
When shooting I am looking for "moments" and if I can get a moment with great light then that is a real bonus.
If I have shot a subject before (practice?) then I will have a good idea of what is acheivable.
Keep in mind that the screen on the back of the camera (chimping) can be known as the "distractor" with some shooting situations.

Specifics (this is from personal experience).

#1 'scapes.
Sunset/sunrise times
Weather forecast (including cloud cover)
Gear - Triopod and remote release? - lens filters to control light? - correct lenses.
Personal safety, especailly important when shooting some sea scapes.

#2 Motor racing
Safety.
Know your subject (track/drivers/cars)
Right gear Lenses/bodies etc (including backup if shooting for "clients"."
Personal gear (wet weather and sun protection, and high vis vests)
When shooting I tend to follow the light.

#3 Indoor classical music concerts
Fast lenses (f2 or faster, or f2.8 depending on if you are willing to use very high ISO values (3200+)
Backup gear if shooting for a "client"
Quiet camera body. No flash (you cannot do anything that will distract the audience (or performers)

#4 Bird photography
Know your subject - bird behavior, location, and when (time of day) to shoot.
Very long lenses are generally the norm. Know how to use them.

Garyminor Loc: Raleigh, NC

SS,
The term should method instead of methodology. Methodology is the study of methods.

This should be an interesting thread. Thanks

btbg

I use different methodology depending on if I am shooting for work or for fun. Since the request was to post just one methodology at a time I will deal with work first.

My primary work photography is sports. So I try to get to the gym or field about a 1/2 hour prior to game time, longer for college or pro venues. I then walk around the entire facility looking for sight lines that will give clean backgrounds. Once I have established what locations I will try to shoot from I shoot several shots of warm ups, or even just the facility making sure that my exposure and light balance are accurate.

This is especially important if the place you are shooting has a major issue with flicker in their lights. It tends to make both the color balance and exposure change from shot to shot. Both of my cameras have a flicker reduction function, and it is important to know if that needs to be used or not.

Prior to game time I also check to see how close I will be to the action and what lens selection will allow me to fill the frame most often. For example if I am shooting from under the basket at a basketball game my crop sensor camera with a 24-70 zoom may adequately fill the frame. On the other hand if I am shooting from the top corner of the bleachers near the baseline then I will use my full frame camera with my 80-200 zoom. If there is enough light I may even go to my 150-600 zoom.

Once I have determined where I am shooting from, what body and lens to use, I then watch warm ups looking for athletes that may stand out in my photos because of facial expressions, quality of play, etc...

Once the game starts I shoot a few photos and then at the first time out or other break in the action I go through as many of those shots as possible to see if my focus is good, I have a clean background, have filled the frame, etc....

I will also make sure that I shoot something that will be usable right at the start of the game. For example I will shoot the pitcher in baseball right at the start. That way if he pitches a complete game no-hitter I already have that shot filed away and don't have to worry about the pitcher again unless I am looking for him celebrating at the end of the game.

Once that is all taken care of I spend the rest of the game attempting to capture the emotion in the game as well as any play that may become critical to the outcome of the game. My procedure varies depending on if I am covering the game for newspapers that cover both schools or only one of the two schools. It is actually easier to get clean backgrounds if you are shooting both teams as you can stay in the same location even when teams switch ends. That's harder to do if you are only shooting one team.

The remainder of the game I move from location to location that I have already predetermined. The exception being if there is a critical play, example a goal line situation in football may require running to get to that end of the field.

Once the game is done I then download all of my files and sort them by team and relevance to the outcome of the game. I then send any photos to the secondary team that I am covering before going to the office to select from the remaining photos of the team that I am primarily covering. I then select the five or six photos that best represent the game for the editor to look at to select for the next edition of the newspaper, and put them on the server in a file named by date and game.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

RT, thanks for the great comments and for taking the time. For sure different genres do take different skill sets and equipment. Thanks for sharing your methods. This kind of info could certainly help others!
Thanks, SS

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

Gather camera and what gear I think I might need or feel like carrying. Go out, see things, take pictures, come back clean and put away gear, download pictures, cull/delete, mark some for special attention, PP on those, do others later. Maybe make a note to go back with different gear or to try for a different perspective etc.

Hey, I am not making a living or trying to get my stuff into an art museum, I'm having fun and if I get some absolutely outstanding images (my personal standards there are pretty high) that is a bonus.

I have never entered a contest or tried to sell any and exhibited some flower images only once in an exhibit of faculty done pictures in a school talent week show that featured everything from dancing to painting done by students and teachers on campus. A few nice snapshots by some teachers and students, my set of 8 flower pictures and 6 outstanding B&W portraits of Jazz Musicians by one of our math teachers who was into Jazz and portraits of musicians he knew. If my portraits or other pictures were 1/2 as good as his were I would be in contests and selling in a big way.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Gary, thanks!
I Googgled methodology, and of about 10 different definitions, none said it was the study of methods.
They all mostly said, and I quote, "a set of methods, rules, or ideas that are important in a science or art : a particular procedure or set of procedures."
I agree as opposed to, say, sociology, archaeology or physiology which are the study of those diciplines!
So I think we are OK in this case.
Thanks
SS

repleo Loc: Boston

Great topic.
I shoot mostly landscapes. Cape Cod is my main stomping ground and I have gotten to know it pretty well although I never cease to find something new. I do a lot of pre-planning. Actually I enjoy the planning nearly as much as the shoot. I will start a couple of days in advance. I check the weather forecast, tide tables and use Photopills app to check the times and angles of the sun. I have built up an inventory in my head of potential compositions and from the sun/tide/weather info I decide where I am going to shoot and what time to be there. When I arrive at the location I walk straight to the exact spot I have picked in advance and set up my tripod. For me, seeing the scene unfold exactly as I had envisaged and planned is a real thrill. I will take my pre-planned shots - multiple different exposures, usually in Aperture Priority, a bracket and maybe even an Auto or Scene mode. After that I will move around looking for a different angle or composition or subject matter.

When travelling I start planning even earlier. I will try to find out as much about the area as I can. I'll go on Flickr and try to figure out where the shots were taken to get a feel for the area. I travel the roads on Google Streetview. I decide what I want to shoot and figure out what time of day would be best. Then I plan my itinerary - maybe the whole trip around my pre-planning. I'll even plan where I am going to park or how I am going to get to the spot I want. Of course things don't always work out. Sometimes the weather doesn't cooperate, or there is a construction project I hadn't planned for, or somebody has parked a truck right in my shot, but at least it is a plan.

Of course, I also enjoy just walking or driving around and keeping my eyes open and these are often my most rewarding shots. However, as I said, I enjoy the planning nearly as much as the shoot and get a real thrill on the rare occasions when I find the scene exactly as I had envisaged.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

Fascinating to read the posts so far, SS. So glad you started this topic!

My gear, interests and physical abilities have changed over the years so I'll just address what I have been mostly doing for the past 12 months:

Drive around the countryside in search of interesting light or weather. I shoot from the car or within a couple hundred feet of the car.

Some areas I'm very familiar with (for example, my local aboretum or the Yakima River Canyon Scenic Byway) and I have an idea of what I'll find for subjects or conditions. But often I explore different roads hoping for an unexpected treat. And each of the six visits I made to Mt Rainier National Park this past summer provided varied and spectacular light and weather and scenery. Is it no wonder I'm addicted to "let's see what's around the next corner!"

"It's all about the light!" I prefer dawn and sunrise for light, but living at this latitude (47th parallel), the light is very different in June than December, as is the amount of twilight, angle of sun as it rises, time of sunrise, and ground conditions.

For example, spring and fall can see a 25- to 30-degree temperature change from overnight low to mid-afternoon high, and will often offer ground fog that dissipates quickly at sunrise. In winter we can be in heavy fog in one area, and a mile or two away there are sunny skies. I love to travel the edges of fog, shooting towards a rising sun. My tripod broke two years ago and I haven't missed it (I mostly used it to catch full moon rise at sunset).

Have two camera bodies (both Canon T3i), one with EF-S 18-135 mm lens, one with EF 70-300 mm. Set them manually, but with auto ISO as I am rarely pointing in the same direction for very long

The 18-135 is usually around f/14 and 1/250 sec and for landscapes. The 70-300 is for smaller-story landscapes and close-ups, or occasional critter that's near enough to catch at that focal length. f/8 and 1/320 most often. Of course when there's time, I change the aperture or shutter for the conditions or subject.

I have a wide-angle, EF-S 10-18 mm (all my lenses are Canon), and I have several photos I love, but unfortunately, I've found the opportunities for really interesting compositions are few and it seems I've done them all But it's always in the bag, just in case.

dsnoke Loc: North Georgia, USA

My main interest is nature photography, but I also do other things, like the grandchildren, some architecture, travel, etc. My method does not change much for any of them. The only difference is that I shoot fewer variants of the children ('cause they won't sit still long enough) or travel ('cause I may not have time.) I also rarely use a tripod when travelling.