deayala1 wrote:
Took this shot on a tripod. Nikon D5100, 18-200mm, 18mm, iso 400. 0 EV, f4, 1/4 sec, flourescent WB. The longer the exposure the fuzzier the neon sign gets.
Sorry hit the send by accident on that last reply :oops:
Hope that this helps
PlushToy wrote:
deayala1 wrote:
Took this shot on a tripod. Nikon D5100, 18-200mm, 18mm, iso 400. 0 EV, f4, 1/4 sec, flourescent WB. The longer the exposure the fuzzier the neon sign gets.
Sorry hit the send by accident on that last reply :oops:
Hope that this helps
You can edit your responses up to an hour later.
I correct my dyelexic spelling all the time.
Looks like you're headed in the right direction. Very good actually, considering what you had to work with. Much better than my attempt. That's why I only posted the correction for the sky. Though not ideal, it looks doable. If there was a way to get your hands on a raw file, I bet you could do wonders!
GoofyNewfie wrote:
PlushToy wrote:
deayala1 wrote:
Took this shot on a tripod. Nikon D5100, 18-200mm, 18mm, iso 400. 0 EV, f4, 1/4 sec, flourescent WB. The longer the exposure the fuzzier the neon sign gets.
Sorry hit the send by accident on that last reply :oops:
Hope that this helps
You can edit your responses up to an hour later.
I correct my dyelexic spelling all the time.
Looks like you're headed in the right direction. Very good actually, considering what you had to work with. Much better than my attempt. That's why I only posted the correction for the sky. Though not ideal, it looks doable. If there was a way to get your hands on a raw file, I bet you could do wonders!
quote=PlushToy quote=deayala1 Took this shot on ... (
show quote)
Thank you and yes the the raw file.
IF you know, or at least have access to someone that can turn the sign on & off try this:
First off, make some test shots, to find out a reasonable length of time needed to capture the sign - say, 5 seconds @f16. And, another test for proper exposure of the building, maybe 60 seconds @f16.
Call the person, have him control the light for the 5 seconds during the 60 second exposure for the building.
Kinda complicated, I agree - but simpler, IMHO, than extensive PP work.
Good luck!
twowindsbear wrote:
IF you know, or at least have access to someone that can turn the sign on & off try this:
First off, make some test shots, to find out a reasonable length of time needed to capture the sign - say, 5 seconds @f16. And, another test for proper exposure of the building, maybe 60 seconds @f16.
Call the person, have him control the light for the 5 seconds during the 60 second exposure for the building.
Kinda complicated, I agree - but simpler, IMHO, than extensive PP work.
Good luck!
IF you know, or at least have access to someone th... (
show quote)
Bingo!!! Great idea! Not complicated at all, if the owner cooperates. You don't have to deal with the glow around the sign that you'd get for the longer exposure. Don't need to go to f16 though. The building is practically at infinity at the 18mm setting. F8 would probably do it.
Better idea get the shot in daylight!
PlushToy wrote:
Better idea get the shot in daylight!
Oh, come on!!
Where's the challenge in that?
;-)
You can try the D5100 HDR but it hasn't impressed me much. Maybe it will work better for this situation. If you use it first set Aperture priority.
You might also try Active D-lighting set at the different strengths and the night landscape scene mode.
GoofyNewfie wrote:
micro wrote:
The d5100 has in camera HDR.
Would be interesting to see how well it works.
I think it uses only two exposures, but that should be better than just one.
bull drink water wrote:
if i was there ,i would call a bunch of hedgdhogs over for a shoot off.i bet we would come up with some wild shots.
And if I was in the area, I'd be there :thumbup: 8-)
Just a little editing and copy/paste on the sign. About 5 minutes in PaintShop Pro x4. (and I am not very good with it yet, sure some of you can do much better)
RMM
Loc: Suburban New York
Your problem isn't focus, it's exposure. As GoofyNewfie pointed out, to get the shot you wanted out of the camera would have required at least two exposures, one for the neon sign (everything else underexposed) and one for everything else (neon sign overexposed). Then the two or more shots could be combined in a variety of ways, including the dreaded HDR.
Bozsik
Loc: Orangevale, California
Digital exposures are free. Stop down and bracket the image by 5 stops in both direction @ 1/2 stop increments. Pick out the two that will work. Put them together.
What about exposing for the sign, and using a flash to momentarily illuminate the building? Like when you take a photo of someone with the setting sun behind them, but still in the picture. You expose for the sun, but briefly fire the flash to illuminate the face of the person in the photo.
Bozsik
Loc: Orangevale, California
bawlmer wrote:
What about exposing for the sign, and using a flash to momentarily illuminate the building? Like when you take a photo of someone with the setting sun behind them, but still in the picture. You expose for the sun, but briefly fire the flash to illuminate the face of the person in the photo.
You need a lot of light output at that distance.
deayala1 wrote:
Took this shot on a tripod. Nikon D5100, 18-200mm, 18mm, iso 400. 0 EV, f4, 1/4 sec, flourescent WB. The longer the exposure the fuzzier the neon sign gets.
Stop down to f8 and move ISO up to 3200 and increase shutter speed.
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