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Shutter speed question
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Oct 23, 2016 10:13:41   #
petego4it Loc: NY
 
Thank you all. Wide range of comments/careful thoughts, much appreciated, from the basic to the nuanced. Hopefully will help many. Personally, I've been a shooter for many years so know basic rules like the focal length vs. the shutter speed, depth of field, composition, bracing, vibration control, etc. but did leave an open-ended question so no doubt others will appreciate those tips. I have fine/advanced equipment that allow a wide range of options. For whatever reason tho, I've mostly avoided tripods, wondered lately if I wasn't missing something...like for ex catching properly the rustle of the leaves in a breeze in a fall landscape shot. The humidity and air quality Linda above mentions is a new thought too. I was also wondering about RRS tripods since I need to re-equip to do this. I travel a lot so obviously prefer one of their lighter versions...hopefully not a 20 lb-er. as Dan states!

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Oct 23, 2016 10:24:24   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
petego4it wrote:
I'm sure this will raise some controversy...hopefully illumination too. I've always assumed that if by juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot would be eliminated. True or false?? Any examples?


To some extent... yes.

However, some shots are difficult without a tripod, even when you're able to use a higher shutter speed....

For example, macro photography. High magnification means very shallow depth of field, which in turn means smaller apertures. So unless you are willing to push ISO up to levels where image noise is a problem, or are able to use flash to supplement available light, a tripod might be necessary. Focusing macro shots is also often best done using a "focusing stage" technique with a tripod or monopod.

Another important use for a tripod is when shooting with multiple cameras and/or for longer periods of time. Try hand-holding a 300/2.8 or 500/4 for four hours at a sporting event or in a wildlife blind! Hang one DSLR with a 70-200/2.8 and another with a 100-400mm on it around your neck for an hour or two and see if you think a tripod might be helpful.

A tripod with a gimbal head is also a wonderful tool when using big, heavy lenses.... Set up correctly you can track moving subjects swiftly and easily with a very light touch.

If your tripod is "cumbersome"... if it's not a tool that you appreciate and want to use... you probably need to look into getting a better tripod! Bought right, a tripod can be a once-in-a-lifetime purchase. Most people buy way, way to cheaply and end up not wanting to use the flimsy POS. If they'd spent more and gotten a really good tripod, chances are they would be more enthusiastic about using it.

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Oct 23, 2016 11:14:38   #
cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA
 
Like all the other tools available to you, tripods have their place. A really good tripod may be the best way to get a sharp shot, but it may also not be the only way. Although I would rather not use a tripod if I don't have to, I use them all the time because, in some cases, they are the best solution. YMMV

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Oct 23, 2016 11:31:24   #
tomcat
 
dcampbell52 wrote:
Jerry pretty well covered the info on shutter speed vs f/stop. Keep in mind that if you open up you f/stop (go to a lower number say f/1.2 up to f/5.6) you are making your depth of field smaller (very small at f/1.2 to f/2 or so) so you need to keep in mind the trade off of depth of field in focus to your shot. If you can use flash or in other ways add light intensity to the shot (reflectors, slower shutter speed, etc.) with out ruining the shot, you might be better off. As an example, a 50mm f/1.4 lens (I often use this for portraits on a crop sensor camera giving it an angle of view similar to a 75mm lens on a 35mm (non-crop sensor) camera, my depth of field can be as narrow as 1 inch. This means that if I don't pay attention to what I am doing, I will end up with a portrait that only the nose is in focus in. I am not saying that opening up the f/stop to use a higher shutter speed is bad, just that you need to be aware of the consequences of doing it and be aware of the other options. Sometimes, you are better off to use the slower shutter speed and higher f/stop or to find ways to add light rather than open the f/stop.
Jerry pretty well covered the info on shutter spee... (show quote)


Excellent answer and I would add that when you increase the ISO, you run the risk of adding noise to your image from the higher ISO values. Noise can definitely degrade the sharpness. 'Tis much less stress to get a good stable tripod (not the cheap flimsy ones).

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Oct 23, 2016 12:18:40   #
William Royer Loc: Kansas
 
Being a fundamentally lazy person, I don't use a tripod as often as I probably should. And, yes, the ability of current cameras at higher iso's is a help in juggling the right combination of SS, aperture, and ISO. But, only up,to a point. It also matters how one intends to use the image -- a significant reduction in size from, for example, 36/24mp to email size will cover some sins. But, when I do use a tripod even on bright days and shoot at 'native ISO' and higher SS, I can see the positive difference. Particularly at larger sizes. So, I promise myself that using a tripod will be my new normal. But ....

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Oct 23, 2016 12:18:49   #
rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA
 
Dan De Lion wrote:
------
To get all the sharpness your lens/camera is capable of delivering you must use a heavy, sturdy tripod. Not a 5 pound tripod but one that weighs around 20 pounds. Once you have your camera mounted, pre release the mirror, set at least a 3 second delay between pushing the shutter release and taking the picture, use an electronic first shutter if you have one, and make sure the tripod's legs are on a non vibrating surface.

This procedure is particularly important for full frame cameras with 36 MP (or greater) sensors or APS-C sensors with 24MP (or greater.) If you don't use these procedures you might as well be shooting with a lower MP sensor. You should also remember that with high MP cameras that image degradation starts at about f8 not at f11.

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------ br To get all the sharpness your lens/camer... (show quote)
Great advice if you're Mickey Hargitay, or take all your pictures within fifty feet of an available parking place.

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Oct 23, 2016 12:29:37   #
JeffDavidson Loc: Originally Detroit Now Los Angeles
 
That partly depends on how fast you need to shoot and how much "noise" you are willing to accept in your photo. This is in addition to the other great comments.

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Oct 23, 2016 13:02:52   #
BebuLamar
 
petego4it wrote:
I'm sure this will raise some controversy...hopefully illumination too. I've always assumed that if by juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot would be eliminated. True or false?? Any examples?


If you have enough light. If you don't then even with an f/1.2 lens and ISO 100,000 you still can't have shutter speed of 1/1000 or 1/2000.

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Oct 23, 2016 14:38:33   #
jimmya Loc: Phoenix
 
petego4it wrote:
I'm sure this will raise some controversy...hopefully illumination too. I've always assumed that if by juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot would be eliminated. True or false?? Any examples?


That's true, once you get to, at least in my experience, 1/800 or up you can get pretty clear shots hand held. I've attached a photo shot with my Canon 75-300 lens at full extension in bright sun at 1/1000.

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Oct 23, 2016 14:41:18   #
jimmya Loc: Phoenix
 
That's true. Once you get to about 1/800 you can get clear hand held shots but you'll need plenty of light. I've attached a shot I did with my Canon
75-300 lens at full extension and 1/1000.


(Download)

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Oct 23, 2016 15:41:30   #
chuckbob
 
Pentax iK50, $350, to new K70-$650 beat any competitor for 1/2 the price. Weatherized, built in IS, 6 fps etc. IS = free fstop.

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Oct 23, 2016 17:05:15   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
rehess wrote:
You have already received lots of good advice, but I don't see an important fact from you that should have impacted the entire discussion: Do you have Image Stabilization available to you? Even the least capable IS / VR / SR system available today "buys" at least three-stops of stability; so if you needed 1/500 without IS, you should be able to go to something like 1/180 with IS. Perhaps your definition is different than mine, but I can't imagine needing a shutter speed greater than 1/2f, where f is the "35mm equivalent focal length" to photograph a basically still object.
You have already received lots of good advice, but... (show quote)


As mentioned, IS/VR can make a huge difference when handholding a long lens and shooting relatively stationary objects. I have shot stationary birds with a 400mm lens and a 1.4x extender (560 mm equivalent) at 1/125 without any sign of camera shake with an IS-equipped lens.

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Oct 23, 2016 17:28:40   #
Dan De Lion Loc: Montana
 
rehess wrote:
Great advice if you're Mickey Hargitay, or take all your pictures within fifty feet of an available parking place.


----

Taking great photos requires dedication. Higher shutter speeds won't solve any of the issues I raised. That was the OP's question.

That's not to say I lug around a 20 pound tripod. For me, freedom of movement and spontaneity trump ultimate sharpness.

--------

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Oct 23, 2016 18:26:26   #
Jim Bob
 
petego4it wrote:
I'm sure this will raise some controversy...hopefully illumination too. I've always assumed that if by juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot would be eliminated. True or false?? Any examples?

Depends.

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Oct 23, 2016 19:01:06   #
Kuzano
 
petego4it wrote:
I'm sure this will raise some controversy...hopefully illumination too. I've always assumed that if by juggling fstop and iso I was able to raise shutter speed high enough, say 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second, that the need to use a cumbersome tripod for a sharp shot would be eliminated. True or false?? Any examples?


True and False. You may get a sharp shot, but the shot will always be sharper with a tripod. A no-tripod cheat will never give you the sharpest image.

In fact in a study on exactly what you ask about, I read that adding a ten pound bag of dead weight to the center column will even increase the sharpness of the image beyond the bare tripod alone.

A tripod and a manual actuation of the shutter will not give you the sharpness of a tripod and a cable or remote shutter.

A tripod additionally weighted in the center AND tripped with a remote shutter will give you the sharpest imaginable image of the the combinations of any of the four..... hand held, tripod, weight tripod or unweighted tripod with remote shutter trip.

Now a question back to you. Which of the above, including your question, would you vie for for the BEST sharpness in an image.

Handheld at 1/1000 or 1/2000 is nowhere near an answer.

If you are connected to your gear in any way, YOU ARE the "fail point".

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